Drilling into a HS Precision stock???

[Dave Hoback]

Any Fiberglass stock you go with SHOULD be bedded. I would do Pillar bedding actually That’s kinda understood when choosing a Glass/Carbon stock.

But going back....why worry about the aluminum in the HS stock? Just have the hole bored & epoxy the spigot in. It wouldn’t hurt the strength of the stock or sacrifice strength of the bipod attachment. Won’t be a cosmetic issue, as it’s inside the forearm. Just go for it!

[nathantc]

Any Fiberglass stock you go with SHOULD be bedded. I would do Pillar bedding actually That’s kinda understood when choosing a Glass/Carbon stock.

But going back....why worry about the aluminum in the HS stock? Just have the hole bored & epoxy the spigot in. It wouldn’t hurt the strength of the stock or sacrifice strength of the bipod attachment. Won’t be a cosmetic issue, as it’s inside the forearm. Just go for it!

i have concerns as there is no way to accurately hit the aluminum support dead on. If i do manage to do so, the drill bit is actually going to cut the aluminum support in half, not drill a hole. This can cause some issues with binding or trying to spread the stock. Think if trying to use a 3/8 or 10mm drill bit to drill into the end of 1/4" thick flat bar. its not going to to go well at all. Its not at all that i feel i would lose rigidity as im adding a steel rod that is stiffer than the aluminum itself.

[Robinhood]

There is know way to keep it on axis without a pilot hole that is very well centered. When drilling a soft material with something even slightly harder in the same hole the drill will want to drift. An extrememly rigid setup with an end mill might do better but the setup cost would be prohibited.

I see you have a parallel thread on the hide. Some really strong DIY and professionals there.

[nathantc]

yes i do. I called HS this morning and the tech said its 1/4" thick aluminum at the tip of the handguard. He also said they do not offer custom work like this. So yeah. Still waiting for enough free time to take it to a friends machine shop to see how he feels about milling out a channel inside the barrel channel the depth, length, and width needed to drop the spigot in directly from the top, Then fill, sand, and paint the fill material to clean it up a bit. I'm thinking this will be the only realistic way to get this done on this stock. That said i still kinda want to make the HS stock work the way i want just because it will be like no other. Close, but not identical, and still very functional.

[Robinhood]

another idea. use 1/2 aluminum square stock the length of the rod you want to be held in the stock to make bushing. Drill and tap shallow holes #10 oe # 8 screw in the four corners on one side of the

Test drill from top and bottom to locate the aluminum bedding block. Look for aluminum shavings to determine depth. Mill on the side that gives you room for half inch aluminum square stock and still be able to fill and sand to the original contour ....if possible. mill milling a half inch spot/key 1/8th inch the bedding block. Drill 4 screws holes on each end/corner of the square bushing to match tapped holes.

Mount and fill. Epoxy mount in the bushing. this will make your project bullet proof and could be done on any mill with some good cribbing and a good vice.

[nathantc]

another idea. use 1/2 aluminum square stock the length of the rod you want to be held in the stock to make bushing. Drill and tap shallow holes #10 oe # 8 screw in the four corners on one side of the

Test drill from top and bottom to locate the aluminum bedding block. Look for aluminum shavings to determine depth. Mill on the side that gives you room for half inch aluminum square stock and still be able to fill and sand to the original contour ....if possible. mill milling a half inch spot/key 1/8th inch the bedding block. Drill 4 screws holes on each end/corner of the square bushing to match tapped holes.

Mount and fill. Epoxy mount in the bushing. this will make your project bullet proof and could be done on any mill with some good cribbing and a good vice.

i think i follow what you are saying.
That said, i know where the aluminum is at this point as the swivel stud holes are drilled all the way thru to the barrel channel and the aluminum is the only part threaded for the screws. So pushing the screw in from the barrel channel and from under the stock confirms its about dead center. Only about 1/8th inch closer to the barrel channel, not leaving enough room to go above, or below the aluminum reinforcement. It will have to be embedded into the aluminum as well. That is why im thinking mill the channel (from the barrel channel side) instead of drilling/boring. This way i can leave about 1/8" of aluminum untouched to jb weld the spigot to. then drill and tap the spigot to accept the very same swivel studs. Fill in the channel and finish the stock cosmedicaly. Then the two swivel studs screw into the spigot bar, sandwiching at least some of the original aluminum support between the stock and spigot. So kinda double duty. I know a mill can accomplish this task in just a few minutes. the rest i can do at home. Currently this is my plan. Unless my machinist friend has a better idea

going to be a lot of work just for a bipod lol. But when you want something that does not exist.......

[nathantc]

thinking about selling the HS Precision stock or trading for an Oryx Savage long action chassis. I know there are other options out there, i just don't care for them. So i'm strongly considering getting the Oryx, milling out the magwell to fit my CIP 3.85 magazine size (it is only cut for 3.715), installing my bipod spigot into the forend, and getting rid of the ugly green panels for some plain black ones. So far everyone i've bought the rifle to refuses to even give it a try out of fear of destroying the stock. Im quickly falling out of love with the stock anyway. So this might be the direction im headed with this build. $400 for a new Oryx. I can get that for my HS stock for sure.

[Txhillbilly]

i think i follow what you are saying.
That said, i know where the aluminum is at this point as the swivel stud holes are drilled all the way thru to the barrel channel and the aluminum is the only part threaded for the screws. So pushing the screw in from the barrel channel and from under the stock confirms its about dead center. Only about 1/8th inch closer to the barrel channel, not leaving enough room to go above, or below the aluminum reinforcement. It will have to be embedded into the aluminum as well. That is why im thinking mill the channel (from the barrel channel side) instead of drilling/boring. This way i can leave about 1/8" of aluminum untouched to jb weld the spigot to. then drill and tap the spigot to accept the very same swivel studs. Fill in the channel and finish the stock cosmedicaly. Then the two swivel studs screw into the spigot bar, sandwiching at least some of the original aluminum support between the stock and spigot. So kinda double duty. I know a mill can accomplish this task in just a few minutes. the rest i can do at home. Currently this is my plan. Unless my machinist friend has a better idea

going to be a lot of work just for a bipod lol. But when you want something that does not exist.......

This should be rather easy to do with a Horizontal end mill and an extended bit to get the depth than you need. Using a milling bit, you don't need to worry about it drifting if you aren't centered on the bedding block.

[ice tea]

similar idea. lets say alum bed block in forearm is at least 1.5" wide, and stops 1.5" from plastics end. we already know its .250 thick. cut original section of oem shaft that was intended to go into forearm off, so its only 1.5'' long. take a new steel 1"x1 x1" square steel block, and drill/ream a hole through center for press/near press fit (10mm) , tap set screw(s) in sidewall for the shaft. weld that block to piece of steel flatbar (4.5 x1.5x.250") end. hog/rout out plastic from forearm back 4.5+" x 1.5"+ width. now lay plate down on underside side of alum bedding block , drill/tap/screw into bedding block. the 5/16 wall of bored block, puts the center of oem shaft on center line of the orig .250 alum bedding block, and steel block is receesed into plastic foremarm, so it can be epoxy over. only shaft sticks out, and alum bedding block never got damaged , the new flatbar is overlapping 3" of length of alum bedding. everything is rigid, and low cost/$

another idea. use 1/2 aluminum square stock the length of the rod you want to be held in the stock to make bushing. Drill and tap shallow holes #10 oe # 8 screw in the four corners on one side of the

Test drill from top and bottom to locate the aluminum bedding block. Look for aluminum shavings to determine depth. Mill on the side that gives you room for half inch aluminum square stock and still be able to fill and sand to the original contour ....if possible. mill milling a half inch spot/key 1/8th inch the bedding block. Drill 4 screws holes on each end/corner of the square bushing to match tapped holes.

Mount and fill. Epoxy mount in the bushing. this will make your project bullet proof and could be done on any mill with some good cribbing and a good vice.

[nathantc]

sounds like that could have worked.
My oryx chassis will be here next week. The HS stock is not going to be used. The spigot will be attached to the oryx and the oryx magwell will have to be extended .135" to fit the 3.85 CIP magazine for the 300 PRC. Might keep the HS stock and bottom metal, might sell it. Not sure yet.
Went with the oryx due to the fact i don't care for any other chassis that fits a savage long action. Don't care for much adjustability as i'll leave it in one place once set anyway. I liked the oryx for its simplicity. Nothing should be more rigid than a one piece chunk of aluminum. Didn't really want a chassis, but quickly fell out of love with the HS stock before it ever got any use.