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Thread: Drilling into a HS Precision stock???

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  1. #1
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    yup. that would give it about .4mm wiggle room.

  2. #2
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    i might be abandoning the HS Precision stock. The aluminum bar is actually thinner than the spigot i want to instal. There is just no practical way to get what i want.
    The GRS Bifrost is already set up to instal the spigot like i want. Though im not so sure the stock would be idea being only fiberglass with no aluminum bedding or reinforcement. I know there are a lot of chassis out there. They are neat, just not honestly comfortable to me. so idk where to go from here. kinda bummed about the stock. Seems like an ok stock and there is not exactly a lot of options for a savage long action.

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    Any Fiberglass stock you go with SHOULD be bedded. I would do Pillar bedding actually That’s kinda understood when choosing a Glass/Carbon stock.

    But going back....why worry about the aluminum in the HS stock? Just have the hole bored & epoxy the spigot in. It wouldn’t hurt the strength of the stock or sacrifice strength of the bipod attachment. Won’t be a cosmetic issue, as it’s inside the forearm. Just go for it!

  4. #4
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Any Fiberglass stock you go with SHOULD be bedded. I would do Pillar bedding actually That’s kinda understood when choosing a Glass/Carbon stock.

    But going back....why worry about the aluminum in the HS stock? Just have the hole bored & epoxy the spigot in. It wouldn’t hurt the strength of the stock or sacrifice strength of the bipod attachment. Won’t be a cosmetic issue, as it’s inside the forearm. Just go for it!
    i have concerns as there is no way to accurately hit the aluminum support dead on. If i do manage to do so, the drill bit is actually going to cut the aluminum support in half, not drill a hole. This can cause some issues with binding or trying to spread the stock. Think if trying to use a 3/8 or 10mm drill bit to drill into the end of 1/4" thick flat bar. its not going to to go well at all. Its not at all that i feel i would lose rigidity as im adding a steel rod that is stiffer than the aluminum itself.

  5. #5
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    There is know way to keep it on axis without a pilot hole that is very well centered. When drilling a soft material with something even slightly harder in the same hole the drill will want to drift. An extrememly rigid setup with an end mill might do better but the setup cost would be prohibited.

    I see you have a parallel thread on the hide. Some really strong DIY and professionals there.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  6. #6
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    yes i do. I called HS this morning and the tech said its 1/4" thick aluminum at the tip of the handguard. He also said they do not offer custom work like this. So yeah. Still waiting for enough free time to take it to a friends machine shop to see how he feels about milling out a channel inside the barrel channel the depth, length, and width needed to drop the spigot in directly from the top, Then fill, sand, and paint the fill material to clean it up a bit. I'm thinking this will be the only realistic way to get this done on this stock. That said i still kinda want to make the HS stock work the way i want just because it will be like no other. Close, but not identical, and still very functional.


  7. #7
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    another idea. use 1/2 aluminum square stock the length of the rod you want to be held in the stock to make bushing. Drill and tap shallow holes #10 oe # 8 screw in the four corners on one side of the

    Test drill from top and bottom to locate the aluminum bedding block. Look for aluminum shavings to determine depth. Mill on the side that gives you room for half inch aluminum square stock and still be able to fill and sand to the original contour ....if possible. mill milling a half inch spot/key 1/8th inch the bedding block. Drill 4 screws holes on each end/corner of the square bushing to match tapped holes.

    Mount and fill. Epoxy mount in the bushing. this will make your project bullet proof and could be done on any mill with some good cribbing and a good vice.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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