Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Flat back trigger help

  1. #1
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    134

    Flat back trigger help

    Bought an older lh flat back off the classifieds on a different site. Must have slipped the sellers mind that the safety didn't work. need help identifying it so i can pull up how to work on it. Lastly if i have to ill just buy another i just need to know what will fit it.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warner Robins, Ga
    Age
    73
    Posts
    4,104
    Only one adjustment for that trigger and that's a screw for the safety on the rear of the trigger, no other adjustments. Best bet is to bite the bullet and get the Rifle Basix 1 trigger and be done with it.
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  3. #3
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Bayou Country
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,714
    Never seen one of those. Fred or Jim may be of some assistance. Give them a chance to respond.

    As For the Sav1 GACOP, The sear is not correct nor is the trigger hanger. I don't know if this is a early gen or what.

    EDIT: Here is a link to your triggers adjustment. Made available by the forum owner by ?
    https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ger-Adjustment

    One Cannot Be PC And Be Intellectually Honest!

  4. #4
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Bayou Country
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,714

    One Cannot Be PC And Be Intellectually Honest!

  5. #5
    Team Savage
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Easten WA near ID border
    Age
    63
    Posts
    310
    Pre-66. Does front of bolt look like the one on the bottom in pic below? If yes, see this FAQ topic - https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ger-Adjustment

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bolts.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	214.8 KB 
ID:	7032

  6. #6
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Age
    41
    Posts
    688
    Wow.. that’s a new one on me as well. Never come across one. I guess pre ‘66, they are fairly scarce.

    Id say try to repair it, and keep this trigger. Bit of “coolness” factor there with the age of it. Looks like there are 2 adjustments to me. Perhaps it is simply out of adjustment. Unless I’m mistaken, it appears the “sear adjustment” screw is a cam head screw. Pushes up on the sear as turned. Now that is trick!

    I could work some magic playing with that style trigger, indeed.

  7. #7
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    134
    Thanks guys. I actually took it apart and cleaned out the grime and dirt. It works fine now. Ive never seen one with 3 action screws last one being the painted red for the saftey. The bolt looks like the 3rd one down, kinda funky. Some one built a stock for it at some point. Shoots pretty good. Small pencil thin barrel perfect small rifle for my oldest daughter. (12 yo) Shes killed bigger deer than most grown men all doing it shooting right handed guns. Never really cared until this year at the range and seen a person with a left handed rifle. Her mind was blown. Lol thanks again guys.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,073
    Glad it worked out for you, because the chances of getting the right parts to upgrade it is pretty slim. For that trigger, all the adjustments are in the safety bar. The screw closest to the rear is the safety engagement, while the one towards the front is for the safety slide adjustment. This takes out the up and down slop of the safety bar itself. The screw in the middle, with the plunger is the trigger pull weight. The down side of this, is that you have to disassemble this to make adjustments. The screw on the end of the trigger has NO sear adjustment capabilities. It is simply : 1. A screw that holds a spring and detent to secure the trigger pivot pin, 2. a positive stop for the trigger.
    As for the "3rd" screw in the tang.......that doesn't belong there. Someone "bubba gunsmithed" that.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  9. #9
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    134
    It does have some up and down slop. Im almost too scared to take it apart and mess with it now. Thank you sir for the info I'll keep an eye on it. If it get worse ill adjust it

  10. #10
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warner Robins, Ga
    Age
    73
    Posts
    4,104
    Ya learn somethin every day!
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  11. #11
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Age
    41
    Posts
    688
    Ok, yes I see that now. One of the pictures in the link looked like it was a cam screw, but the picture above can tell it’s centered.

    Glad it worked out for you OP. Also, I wouldn’t be hesitant to mess with the settings. The parts are solid steel.

  12. #12
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    49
    I have one of those, built in Chicoppe Falls instead of Westfield.... pain in the a$$. For whoever said it has a"coolness factor" do I have a deal for you. But seriously, that is a bad action to start a build off of so I would just use it as is. I built off of mine and here is what I've found... no one makes a trigger for it, bolt body is drilled on a different angle so you can not change bolt heads. A new bolt will fit it but you have to grind the tab that runs in the raceway off. It also ejects from the back of the action and new mag boxes have to be modified to make them work.'

    *if you do find a new trigger that works please let me know.

  13. #13
    Team Savage
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    SE Tennessee
    Posts
    592
    You definitely have a first generation trigger. It is not so easy to modify and no replacement is available. Polishing is helpful. I have two first generation rifles and sent the first, which had been rebarreled to .25-06, to a smith and he was able to help it a bit. It has a clean pull that feels lighter than it measures on a gauge (3.5 #). The other is a .243 on a short action that feels like a smith has done a job on it too. These are nice rifles with better wood than later Savage 110s had, but they are not able to be upgraded without spending more than the rifles are worth. I called Savage regarding the first and they referred me to a fellow who had retired from the company years ago who was the expert. He said the only way to replace the trigger with a 2nd generation trigger required milling the receiver to accept the new trigger. That discussion took place 20 years ago and I doubt he is still living.

  14. #14
    Team Savage
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    68
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Wow.. that’s a new one on me as well. Never come across one. I guess pre ‘66, they are fairly scarce.

    Id say try to repair it, and keep this trigger. Bit of “coolness” factor there with the age of it. Looks like there are 2 adjustments to me. Perhaps it is simply out of adjustment. Unless I’m mistaken, it appears the “sear adjustment” screw is a cam head screw. Pushes up on the sear as turned. Now that is trick!

    I could work some magic playing with that style trigger, indeed.
    Dave, I have one, actually gave it to my granddaughter. The sear screw is not a cam. But instead if you start backing it out the shoulder rides up the cocking sear letting it engage farther. His picture shows it set light as possible.
    They were/are fairly nice triggers. My granddaughter's is down around 3#. I did make a cam shaped washer to fit under it once.....very fussy to get it where you want it and still snug it down....lol....
    I also changed it out to regular 3 screw but you needed all the safety parts from a newer action to do this and had to revamp the bolt release to get it to work.
    I switched it all back to the pre 66. Also converted it to regular bolt-head including bolt body & fp. My granddaughter shot a doe with it as a 221 fireball when she was 10. She graduated to 243 and that barrel has got her a couple of bucks and a black bear. Nothing wrong with those triggers!

  15. #15
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Age
    41
    Posts
    688
    Quote Originally Posted by mnbogboy2 View Post
    Dave, I have one, actually gave it to my granddaughter. The sear screw is not a cam. But instead if you start backing it out the shoulder rides up the cocking sear letting it engage farther. His picture shows it set light as possible.
    They were/are fairly nice triggers. My granddaughter's is down around 3#. I did make a cam shaped washer to fit under it once.....very fussy to get it where you want it and still snug it down....lol....
    I also changed it out to regular 3 screw but you needed all the safety parts from a newer action to do this and had to revamp the bolt release to get it to work.
    I switched it all back to the pre 66. Also converted it to regular bolt-head including bolt body & fp. My granddaughter shot a doe with it as a 221 fireball when she was 10. She graduated to 243 and that barrel has got her a couple of bucks and a black bear. Nothing wrong with those triggers!
    Yes, I replied again changing my initial view & acknowledged it was NOT a cam screw. But there are non-consenting explanations of its operation. I understand what you are saying, but Fred stated it doesn’t adjust the sear in any way, and is simply to hold the pivot screw. I can see both being the case. But I won’t commit to either unless I was to see, and work on one myself. But thank you for some more points of thought.

  16. #16
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Age
    41
    Posts
    688
    Quote Originally Posted by Whynot View Post
    I have one of those, built in Chicoppe Falls instead of Westfield.... pain in the a$$. For whoever said it has a"coolness factor" do I have a deal for you. But seriously, that is a bad action to start a build off of so I would just use it as is. I built off of mine and here is what I've found... no one makes a trigger for it, bolt body is drilled on a different angle so you can not change bolt heads. A new bolt will fit it but you have to grind the tab that runs in the raceway off. It also ejects from the back of the action and new mag boxes have to be modified to make them work.'

    *if you do find a new trigger that works please let me know.
    Whynot, I’m the guilty part of that comment. I was referring to the trigger itself, nothing of the rest of it(other than nostalgic romance of age). To a someone like me, working on a new trigger design is quite gratifying. If you’ve seen some of my previous posts here, you may know I’m a DIY’er/gunsmith/builder/machinist. (Try putting that in a resume!) Tinkering on & improving triggers is a passion of mine.

  17. #17
    Team Savage
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    68
    Posts
    435
    Thanks Dave, i re'read Sharpshooter's post and agree with it. He is our resident man of the hour on this one. The one I have/had may have been "loose" when I first worked on it. As I snugged it up it definitely got lightened the trigger, pushing the sear surfaces closer to "disconnect". It is in Wisconsin over 100 miles away now, otherwise I would pull it apart and study it better. As I left it the screw is all the way in so at least not going to "fall" apart...lol...the spring/detent for the cross pin prevented the screw from spinning loose making it easy to think it was an adjustment...seeing obvious results of adjustability further reinforced that thought.

    Good catch on your part. Safety for everyone is the main concern. I gave bad advice. Without forums like these some of these things may have always been a mystery.


    It definitely could be possible to design another "adjustable" screw for it. Maybe a "stud" with an adjustable cam-style nut with a second lock nut.
    There isn't enough of them left out there to even worry about.

    This forum really brings out the fact that there are many ways to look at each problem and mechanism we must keep an open mind when we do.

  18. #18
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Age
    41
    Posts
    688
    I like that thought process my friend. Exactly why I enjoy tuning triggers. Very satisfying taking a heavy, gritty trigger full of creep & overtravel, stoning the surfaces to perfect paralll. Then perhaps changing this or that around...adding a shim or a stop pin, etc. And finishing with wonderful trigger feel that cost pennies on the dollar while giving very close performance to triggers costing sometimes hundreds!


    Ive said this many times over the years... Aftermarket triggers are probably the biggest money maker scheme in the firearms world! Most who buy them, don’t need them! And 99% of shooters wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between a world class aftermarket, and a professional stock trigger job.

Similar Threads

  1. Flat back 100 trigger pull weight adjustment screw missing. Ideas?
    By Bryan H. in forum Savage 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-06-2019, 09:42 AM
  2. Accuracy potential flat back vs round back
    By coance in forum Savage 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 07-11-2018, 08:43 PM
  3. Flat back
    By 319 in forum Savage 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-25-2010, 12:33 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •