I'm sure others have posted a similar trigger job...but this is how I did mine.

Triggers were the first type of gunsmithing I taught myself in the late 90's/early 00's. Almost every firearm I have owned has received a trigger job. To the point that I do not purchase aftermarket triggers. I am very fond of the Accutrigger, as the safety lever on the trigger makes it feel a bit like a 2-stage. Doing my trigger job, the trigger is as light as I want, with no creep and breaks like a glass rod!

I started with reprofiling the sear angle. Rather, I should say not actually reprofiling, rather I stone it in a fixture I made to bring it to perfectly flat. The sear "as is" does not have, what I would call a perfect surface. After stoning to 6000gr, I polish is. The trigger gets the same attention.
https://s33.postimg.cc/yxd06a5fj/IMG_3251.jpg
https://s33.postimg.cc/5w8nwasj3/IMG_3252.jpg
https://s33.postimg.cc/44fp1egvz/IMG_3254.jpg

Next, I picked up a 10-24 SS set screw .75" long. I then turned down half to smooth the threads.
https://s33.postimg.cc/luhdmg26n/IMG_3257.jpg
https://s33.postimg.cc/8dkf3jwzz/IMG_3258.jpg

I removed the stock return spring and this is where the set screw is installed from the bottom. I picked up a new compression spring, size .25" OD x .6" long, with .020" dia. wire. The spring fits over the set screw and is the new trigger return spring. Lastly, I used 2 bronze bushings, 1 on each side of the trigger to tighten side to side play. The bronze bushings are 5/32" hole and I believe .010" thick. They are actually for a folding knife.
https://s33.postimg.cc/auw6aujhb/IMG_3266.jpg

The new return spring print is listed as total 1.9lb., but that's at full compression. The spring is only preloaded approx. .187", and the trigger with the new overtravel stop, only about 1/16"! If that!

To me, this embodies what some would call a "Tactical" trigger. I don't have a test gauge, however it is extremely light w/ absolute safe engagement! Can not be tripped with vigorous bolt actuation.