6.5cm reloaders. pls help

looking for someone already set up for reloading that may be interested in making me 6 dummy rounds for dry fire and cycling. ive tried snap caps and well they just get all tore up very very fast and i dont always want to sit outside and point my rifle down range just to cycle the action for testing and smoothing things out. or even trigger practice. Real, INSPEC rounds with no powder or primers would work far better for this.

thought about just drilling holes in 6 live rounds. dumping the powder and setting off the primers to do this (i have no reloading equipment) but i worry about the holes causing issues with the chamber.

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Originally Posted by nathantc

looking for someone already set up for reloading that may be interested in making me 6 dummy rounds for dry fire and cycling. ive tried snap caps and well they just get all tore up very very fast and i dont always want to sit outside and point my rifle down range just to cycle the action for testing and smoothing things out. or even trigger practice. Real, INSPEC rounds with no powder or primers would work far better for this.

thought about just drilling holes in 6 live rounds. dumping the powder and setting off the primers to do this (i have no reloading equipment) but i worry about the holes causing issues with the chamber.

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You can just dry fire and skip the dummy round all together dry firing center fires is harmless

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i understand that. but that does not help with smoothing out some bugs in the bolt throw and working in some magazines. the bolt is silk with nothing in it. but feeding rounds does odd things from time to time. ever so often ill get a round that the back of the case want to jump up above the bolt face and bind in the shoulder in the chamber. relese the forward presser on the bolt handle and it drops down and goes right in. ive only ever had this issue with the 6.5cm. so that is part of my reason for dummy rounds.

I've got hundreds of once shot Hornaday brass, and bullets. You say you don't want spent primers? I would think that would work better, but your choice. 140 SMK's OK? Have you got a particular OAL you want to use? Shoot me PM and I'll fix you up.

spent primers would be ok, or no primer at all. no primer at all gives me a very quick way to visually see they are not live rounds without changing any other aspect. and 140g will work great as that is what the rifle seems to like best any way. ill pm you

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Originally Posted by nathantc

i understand that. but that does not help with smoothing out some bugs in the bolt throw and working in some magazines. the bolt is silk with nothing in it. but feeding rounds does odd things from time to time. ever so often ill get a round that the back of the case want to jump up above the bolt face and bind in the shoulder in the chamber. relese the forward presser on the bolt handle and it drops down and goes right in. ive only ever had this issue with the 6.5cm. so that is part of my reason for dummy rounds.

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Welcome to the world of Push Feed Actions. All push feed actions will have case hang ups,it's the nature of the beast.

Dummy rounds won't fix the problem,but a Controlled Feed Action will.

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Originally Posted by Texas10

I've got hundreds of once shot Hornaday brass, and bullets. You say you don't want spent primers? I would think that would work better, but your choice. 140 SMK's OK? Have you got a particular OAL you want to use? Shoot me PM and I'll fix you up.

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I applaud your offer. Hope the OP takes you up on it.

An idea is to apply a really good crimp. That way the rounds will 'survive' many cycles even if the noses get bumped during the process.

OP, if you decide to drill some live rounds, use some oil on the drill bit. You should not generate enough heat to 'bother' the powder, but, weird things happen. I'd also make up a 'shield' for the process. Just a wood box would do.

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Originally Posted by Texas10

I've got hundreds of once shot Hornaday brass, and bullets. You say you don't want spent primers? I would think that would work better, but your choice. 140 SMK's OK? Have you got a particular OAL you want to use? Shoot me PM and I'll fix you up.

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this man is a life saver. great guy. that is going to be 100% safer and better than the aluminum crap snap caps. thanks again.

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Originally Posted by Txhillbilly

Welcome to the world of Push Feed Actions. All push feed actions will have case hang ups,it's the nature of the beast.

Dummy rounds won't fix the problem,but a Controlled Feed Action will.

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i understand what you are saying. but this issues seems to be specific to my 6.5cm. i think it has to do with the case shoulder angle being so sharp. most other rounds i have, have much more taper to them. the answer (im thinking) will be to have the mag release the round a bit later so that the shoulder of the case is in the chamber before it "snaps up" so that it cannot ride over the bolt face and bind. if i cycle the bolt very slowly it never hangs up. but with (normal for me) speed you get one out of ever mag randomly hang up. cycle it as fast as you can and it never hangs up, but then you get the typical savage bolt bind from pushing/pulling at an off angle. ill get er figured out.

I didn't notice what model 6.5mm you have so I don't know if you have an AICS magazine or a standard Savage mag.

My three 6.5mms all started with Savage mags but I changed the hidden mag on the 12 FV to an Oryx chassis with an AICS mag.
Never had problems with the hidden mag feeding but the flimsy stock on the bargain 12 FV flexed during recoil so I changed to an Oryx chassis.
The only problems that I have had with the AICS mags came when I wanted to seat heavier bullets out longer than the mag liked.
Of the three, the model 10T-SR bolt was the most finicky. That has a standard Accu-stock and detachable Savage mag.
My 12 LRP had the same mag with an HS Precision stock (from the factory) and never had any feeding problems.

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Originally Posted by CFJunkie

I didn't notice what model 6.5mm you have so I don't know if you have an AICS magazine or a standard Savage mag.

My three 6.5mms all started with Savage mags but I changed the hidden mag on the 12 FV to an Oryx chassis with an AICS mag.
Never had problems with the hidden mag feeding but the flimsy stock on the bargain 12 FV flexed during recoil so I changed to an Oryx chassis.
The only problems that I have had with the AICS mags came when I wanted to seat heavier bullets out longer than the mag liked.
Of the three, the model 10T-SR bolt was the most finicky. That has a standard Accu-stock and detachable Savage mag.
My 12 LRP had the same mag with an HS Precision stock (from the factory) and never had any feeding problems.

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originally a heavy barreled model 11 with the craptastic plastic camo stock and oem detachable mag. now with the Archangel stock and its proprietary mags its almost 100% flawless but still gets the odd one that want to jump the case head just a hair over the bolt face. causing it to bind on the shoulder of the case and the chamber. the new stock and mags and cured it 99% of the time but ill get it to bind one out of ever 25-30 rounds or so. i was going to put it in a oryx chassis but really didnt want the feel of aluminum on my skin in cold weather or that ugly od green. might still get that chassis one day but would want it all black. the only downside to the AICS mags is the cost is not realistic for any magazine. i hear good things but only have had one rifle that used them and was never that impressed with them to be honest.

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/r0g8zx.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/h0o4jl.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/rwbi1l.jpg

Another way of differentiating live and dummy rounds I use is to drill a hole in the side of the case.

I like that MR45, I stripe mine with a different color for the projectile Green and black for a SMK 140 Green and blue for a SMK 142 Yellow and Red and black for Berger 140etc...

Have you contacted Archangel/Promag to see what they say. If you are experiencing it I bet you are not the first.

That thing is starting to grow on me.

My dummy rounds either do not have primers at all or they have holes drilled in the sides of the cases.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I like that MR45, I stripe mine with a different color for the projectile Green and black for a SMK 140 Green and blue for a SMK 142 Yellow and Red and black for Berger 140etc...

Have you contacted Archangel/Promag to see what they say. If you are experiencing it I bet you are not the first.

That thing is starting to grow on me.

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the issue was present and much much more of a problem with 5 different oem savage mags for the oem plastic stock. its a lot better with this stock and mag than it ever was before. i doubt its the stock to blame. i honestly think its the shape of the 6.5cm giving it hell. i can cycle it as slow as i want, but if i try and go to fast that is where the problem starts. maybe its operator error lol idk.

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Originally Posted by charlie b

My dummy rounds either do not have primers at all or they have holes drilled in the sides of the cases.

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Texas10 is hooking me up with some with no powder or primers. i like that idea better than a hole in the case. i doubt it would cause any feed or camber issues but i feel better not having holes in them.

so i got my dummy rounds in today and started playing with the mag and cycling the action to try and pinpoint the problem. got it doing a lot better now. seems the mag spring was to tight. i suppose on both the stock mag and the new set up. manually bent the spring to be shorter lil by lil and each time the feeding got better and the bolt seemed to be much much smoother to operate. cant go any lighter on the spring but if you do not cycle it fast you will get this type of hang up about once per mag when slow cycling.

in the photo the case has ended up above the bolt face recess. relieve pressure and it will fall down and load right in.
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/ifntyv.jpg

for anyone who ends up reading this, the issue with this type of jam is the ejector plunger its self. DO NOT DO LIKE I DID, and give up, and sell the rifle off. Really wish i had known sooner. The fix is filing about a 45* angle on the firing pin side of the ejector plunger. My new 300 PRC ended up with the same issue, this time i actually found and fixed the issue.

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/ikpa5z.jpg

Good update info. Thank you.

No problem.

more info here
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...nd-axis-family