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How in the world is everyone bedding the axis receiver?
A guy dropped one off asking if i could bed it , i said I'd take a look... Man there is ALOT going on underneath so to speak lol.
I did a quick search with no luck , is there an existing thread on here pertaining to this? Stock in question is a Boyds prairie hunter (short)
I can kind of work with this recoil lug setup but the rear portion around the rear screw/trigger assy has me scratching my head lol
Thx in advance.
Hope this helps. It's a SSS ProHunter stock, but some directions I received.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/rumu4a8y.jpg
Thanks Lonewolf , i essentially just bedded the front portion like a normal job letting the compound work its way around the rear side of the lug... The rear area I also did somewhat the same except i placed putty in and under that neat little piece that the rear receiver screw goes through (the trigger base if you will) probably going to be a fair bit more cleanup to do but hoping it'll give it a tad more surface area than before..
Truth be told i can't wrap my head around how these things will actually shoot with what little surface area the receiver has.. But they do lol.
Ya with my SSS ProTac stock I just bedded the recoil lug permanently in place. Since it came pillar bedded and is CNC cut it is a much tighter fit than the Boyd's stocks. I consistently shoot sub half MOA groups with the right loads. I'm currently working on them right now, but will have to take a little break until early fall when I get back from a little jaunt overseas again.
Well spent the last few days bedding my Axis into boyds stock.
I have done a full wright up on another forum here in Aus, sorry but I am not repeating it here. About 80 photos and lots of writing.
anyway few photos...
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps67211829.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps3c81bc64.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psa6c0feb5.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps2fa6c671.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps583b3e9c.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps4fcc6442.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps54efd368.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps04e70b24.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps21cd6fd7.jpg
If you want to see everything bedding starts at post 60 on wards, http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/r...art=0&start=40
There has been a question asked, why I did the bedding work with the recoil lug the way I have?
It is probably one of the things I gave the most thought and worry to. My first real concern was safety, being that the lug is not secured to the action or the stock. Would this let the action move to fare in the stock possibly even shearing of the action screws when fired!!!
Second thing I was thinking about was the point of bedding a rifle… is it just to put some hard stuff under the action to stop the stock and action crushing together…
Let me do a quote if I may…
From the book: Centrefire Rifle Accuracy, Creating and Maintaining It. By W HAMBLY-CLARK JNR..
Chapter Seven: STOCK BEDDING Paragraphs from Page 282 - 283
“You see, upward forend pressure on the barrel cancels out the consequences of bad action bedding. It probably does this by cramping the barrelled action in the stock so that it is stuck in one place from shot to shot. Essentially, the barrelled action does not move with recoil as it is jammed tightly in the rearward or recoiled position, and the compression behind the recoil lug does not have the power to move it forward. Whatever the reason, and that one seems to fit, it’s a fact and it works. You will see lumps of wood left in the forends of factory rifles, even today, that are designed to put upward pressure on the barrel in order to cancel out the bad effects of less than perfect bedding.
It didn’t take long to work out what the problem was, but the cure was very painful and time consuming. What was needed was to make the bedding platform straight. And flat so that the barrel action could be tightened, into the inletting without being stressed, bent or cramped. It sounds easy, but it’s not. It takes a great degree of skill, and a long time to create a perfect bedding platform in wood. This is a job that is simply beyond most people, even beyond most experienced craftsman, the tolerance required being so miniscule; to the order of tenths if a thousandth of an inch.
Fortunately, around the time all of this was happening, fiberglass materials began to appear on the market, and these offered a solution to those of us who had difficulty making a perfect bedding platform in wood.
So that is the reason we have to bed our rifles. It is simply to allow us to enjoy the benefits of a floating barrel, those benefits being to realize best accuracy along with a stable zero.
In order to be able to move freely with in the inletting of the stock the barrelled action needs clearance between itself and the inletting. This clearance should be in the following places
1. In front of the recoil lug
2. At both side of the recoil lug
3. At the bottom of the recoil lug.
4. At any flat side on the receiver.
5. Behind the rear tang.
6. At the sides of the rear tang.
7. At the front of the rear tang, if it is of a step design.
8. At the point between the front bridge and rear tang of the receiver that in not bedded.
So the above I thought about a lot, re read this chapter in his book many times to think about how to apply this to an Axis, with a removable recoil lug and a floating rear tang…
So working on duct tape giving .005” of clearance per layer approx. I decide that I wanted the lug to be bedded hard up against the rear side, but .010” clearance on the front and bottom. And .005” on the sides to allow the action to return hopefully to the same place after every firing.
Now the Axis with its removable lug probably already has those qualities between points 1 and 3, except instead of being between the stock and lug, it is between the lug and action.
I just didn’t feel there was enough! I may well be proved wrong, and I may have given it too much on the bottom with 2 pieces of duct tape. I am thinking though if I need to lift the lug a little I can simply put a piece of duct tape on the bottom. And the same goes with the front and sides, instead of gluing it in I can adjust it a little if need to.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psab933274.jpg
I will do the rear tang while I am at this. I decided to bed the rear tang using points 5 threw to 7. But also bedded the rear action ring… to the side of the stock (red circle in photo), this is so if I have to remove material to allow the rear tang / trigger assembly to float a little with its spring setup. I still have a surface that will be flat and true to the front action ring area. As the rear action screw does not hold the trigger assembly tight to the action, it goes threw it only.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psa9f9a559.jpg
Hope this helps others think about what they are trying to achieve, there are other ways I am sure of doing this... This is just the way I thought about it and did it. I was asked could I of just put tape between the barrel and recoil lug, and glued the lug in place. haven't thought hard about that, but It does sound like it would achieve a similar thing.
Thanks
Patrolit
Just an update , the fellow who had me bed his axis in that boyds prairie hunter came along last week to punch some paper....
Bottom line is that thing shoots lol , after the bedding job (done very similar to patrolit) it's putting 70grn Btips of all things (243win) into .75MOA feeding out of the mag seated short.
All in all I would HIGHLY recommend the boyds line of stocks for these Axis rifles , for the money spent I would say it's the biggest bang for the buck he's gotten.
One thing I would note is that some folks have mentioned they didn't care for the finish they received on their stocks.. The one I seen was "OK" and certainly more than "OK" for a stock of that price.
This is at 100m which makes one MOA 27.77777mm So this is about .5 moa...
I think the bedding was a good thing. 87g v-max
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps9b65b5be.jpg
well done m8, love your work.