I've have several of the Savage LWH rifles. IMO, they need to be bedded and the plastic bottom bolt release trigger guard replaced with a metal trigger guard. You will notice the plastic trigger guard is thin and very weak under the rear action screw which I believe allows the rear of the action to flex under recoil. I've actually had the rear action screw loosen over time with recoil. If you torque the action screws to 65 in-lb, you are most likely going to crack/break the plastic or stock. I use 30 in-lbs. The plastic DBM frame assembly is OK. I also bed the DBM frame assembly under the action screw stress points. The Savage OEM metal DBM frame assembly and bottom magazine cap will also work in this stock if you prefer metal over plastic.
I've also had to adjust my bench shooting technique to shrink groups with these LW rifles and 20" FW barrels. I've found you must hold the forearm very firmly on the rest and control the muzzle jump and side torque caused by the bullet rotation down the tube. Otherwise, I could never get consistent groups which was very frustrating. Also, the FW barrels heat up very quickly and must be allowed to cool completely after three rounds, or you won't see anything but shotgun groups and fliers.
As you know, you should get smaller groups with handloads. My Savage 16 LWH in 7mm08 with factory plastic stock likes RL 15 and Varget with 140 gr or 150-154 gr bullets. The Hornady American Whitetail ammo is usually a good factory load to try in these rifles. Once I bedded the action, recoil lug, hollow area in front of the recoil lug and installed a metal trigger guard I was happy with the groups. I also experimented with adding a 8 lb barrel pressure point at the forearm tip to dampen barrel whip. It helped shrink my 3-shot groups to a consistent 0.75" @100 and eliminated the visible forearm flex.
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