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Thread: 3D Printed Stock adaptor for my Stealth BA

  1. #1
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    3D Printed Stock adaptor for my Stealth BA


    I exchanged the factory adjustable stock on my Stealth last year with an XLR stock. It was a huge improvement for me because I’m a fairly tall guy with long arms and i needed more pull length. However I discovered one thing about the XLR that I didnt like. The bottom of the stock had a solid 1” bar which was designed to rest on the rear bag. The problem for me was that since the bottom of the stock was parallel to the ground I had trouble using my rear bag to make fine tune adjustments to elevation without adjusting the bipod height.

    I started sketching out a design for an angled adaptor that would allow me to ride the stock up onto the bag like a ramp. I also am teaching myself to use Fusion360 for modeling so this was a great way test my modeling skills too.



    I wanted the walls to be fairly thick to resist cracking under recoil stresses. This pic is when it was about 70% complete


    Installed onto my XLR Stock


    I got behind the scope and tested out how it works. A simple sighting test in my back yard gave me about 30-40 mils of fine vertical adjustment without adjusting the bipod height, simply by moving the bag forward or backwards below the stock.


    Took me about 5hrs to model. The print took 14hrs and I used about $10 worth of PLA filament. I’m pretty happy with it.




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  2. #2
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    So how much did your printer cost?
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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    I'm curious as to wether a different type rear bag might have helped?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    So how much did your printer cost?
    It was built partially from a kit but $900 total.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    I'm curious as to wether a different type rear bag might have helped?
    Ive got a number of bags including some triad tactical which are wedge shaped. I could get them to work but Always felt I was fighting against the bag.


    I haven’t tested this yet in the field so we’ll see.

  6. #6
    New Member fishingsetx's Avatar
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    Man, that came out nice! Added a angled foregrip to my 300 BO pistol a month or so ago. Glad to see someone else printing stuff!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by fishingsetx View Post
    Man, that came out nice! Added a angled foregrip to my 300 BO pistol a month or so ago. Glad to see someone else printing stuff!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
    Hey that looks great. What material? ABS or PLA.

    I really need to spend more time with my print settings to get less noticeable layers.

    Right now Im working on making a brass annealer. These pics are about a week old i should be done this weekend.




  8. #8
    New Member fishingsetx's Avatar
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    PLA, havent built an enclosure so I havent ventured out of the PLA/PETG arena. That was probably one of my best looking prints to date. Havent been able to reproduce it yet but ive only been printing for a couple months and have mainly been tuning and upgrading (braces, v6 hotend, camera/remote shutdown, etc). First pic is stock, second pic is current.

    Id be REALLY interested in more info on the brass annealer! Ive been seriously considering building one!


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    Quote Originally Posted by fishingsetx View Post
    PLA, havent built an enclosure so I havent ventured out of the PLA/PETG arena. That was probably one of my best looking prints to date. Havent been able to reproduce it yet but ive only been printing for a couple months and have mainly been tuning and upgrading (braces, v6 hotend, camera/remote shutdown, etc). First pic is stock, second pic is current.

    Id be REALLY interested in more info on the brass annealer! Ive been seriously considering building one!
    I’ll post the parts on GrabCAD once I’m done. I might have to redesign the drum cover because I think it might be exposed to too much heat.

    Looks like you have a cool setup too. What software do you use to model your parts?

  10. #10
    New Member fishingsetx's Avatar
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    Still bouncing around between tinkercad and fusion 360. Ive only printed one ofmy own designs once and it didnt work out too well lol.

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    Made a little more progress on the Annealer tonight. Looks like I’m going to have some issues to work out in order to keep the cases aligned when the fall into the drum.




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    Subbed for updates on the home made/3D printed annealer.

  13. #13
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
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    thats some good designing. In for updates, very cool that this technology is out there for a layman to produce/ invent the ideas in our heads.

  14. #14
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    Attachment 5175
    You need a "case stop rod". It holds and aligns the case as it rotates in the pan. Many folks make a rod which is directly in the flame. It's easy to bend to shape, but it really heats up that way. I bent mine into a zig zag pattern and mounted it above the top of the pan in such a way that it's out of the direct flame.

    Click on the photo for a larger view.

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    Sorry guys I forgot to update this thread. I did finish it. Here is a video link.

    https://youtu.be/ggSi5T4Yjj0

    I’ve done about 200 cases so far but Ive been too lazy to finish the back panel. I did buy an adapter hose so I can connect a full size propane tank which keeps the flame strength more uniform.

    The only problem with is that the plastic holder for the guide finger got too got after running for about 30min. I need redesign it with more metal less plastic and some sort of silicone insulator.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mozella View Post
    Attachment 5175
    You need a "case stop rod". It holds and aligns the case as it rotates in the pan. Many folks make a rod which is directly in the flame. It's easy to bend to shape, but it really heats up that way. I bent mine into a zig zag pattern and mounted it above the top of the pan in such a way that it's out of the direct flame.

    Click on the photo for a larger view.
    I like your design too. Do you have a sensor on the slide to detect the brass? How does it work?

  17. #17
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    Very cool

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