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Thread: Machining New Barrel

  1. #1
    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    Machining New Barrel


    A friend has a new barrel blank to use on a Mode 12 Savage. Blank is 1.25".
    He wants to convert from a barrel nut to a shoulder type assembly.
    The inside diameter of the recoil lug is 1.125" which means upon cutting the
    barrel tenon there will be only be a 1/16 of shoulder all the way around
    Will this be enough shoulder?

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    I’ve learned along the way that .065” is pretty much minimum. You are a few thous. short....Buuuuut, eh??

    Why the added trouble of going with a shoulder? Opposed to what many ‘Smiffs will say, supporting evidence shows NO accuracy advantage with platforms such as Savage. Even with Remage, and other barrel nut systems which can support Tikka, Howa, and several custom Actions. Is it for the aesthetics?

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    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave! I will pass it on. Don't know a thing about that stuff. I do have an electric toothbrush though.

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    I shoulder 1.25" barrels on Savage 12 precision actions. More then enough material. We just
    shouldered up another 30" Brux.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbm View Post
    Thanks Dave! I will pass it on. Don't know a thing about that stuff. I do have an electric toothbrush though.

    The joint is stronger with a shouldered barrel. Many of the shops using a barrel nut torque to 90 ft/lbs to make that junction more ridged.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    The joint is stronger with a shouldered barrel. Many of the shops using a barrel nut torque to 90 ft/lbs to make that junction more ridged.
    Extra torque on a shouldered barrel reduces headspace by moving the chamber rearward as it tightens,, while extra torque on a butted barrel actually adds headspace by pulling all the extra out of the barrel to reciever threads.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnbogboy2 View Post
    Extra torque on a shouldered barrel reduces headspace by moving the chamber rearward as it tightens,, while extra torque on a butted barrel actually adds headspace by pulling all the extra out of the barrel to reciever threads.
    That is true. Just for clarification I did not suggest 90lbs for a shouldered barrel. I suggested that with the barrel nut more torque is required to achieve the same strength as a shouldered..
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    My method....Screw on barrel hand hard tight against go gage. then tighten nut to 65 ft lbs.
    As what Randy said about pulling the barrel away.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Quote Originally Posted by wbm View Post
    A friend has a new barrel blank to use on a Mode 12 Savage. Blank is 1.25".
    He wants to convert from a barrel nut to a shoulder type assembly.
    The inside diameter of the recoil lug is 1.125" which means upon cutting the
    barrel tenon there will be only be a 1/16 of shoulder all the way around
    Will this be enough shoulder?
    The barrel tenon on a small shank is 1.055 if I recall correctly. A 1.25 blank has plenty of meat on it for a shouldered installation. Looks like though maybe your friend has a large shank if the recoil lug ID is that large? If so I don’t think I’d personally use a 1.25 for a shouldered installation but it would probably work fine.


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