Pre 1995 Savage 110 7mm

[ellobo]

Mr Good. follow the instuctions on thatfaq and you will get a decent pull wgt. What you have done so far is not the answer.

El Lobo

[GaCop]

It could be your jerking the trigger because of the mags recoil. I had a Savage 110 in 7mm mag and the tupperware stock was beating me to death on the bench. I rebarreled it to 30-06 and the recoil was still hard to take. I couldn't afford to replace the stock so decided to work with it. I replaced the thin factory recoil pad with a softer sorbethane one (cutting the stock down the thickness of the pad). I filled the hollow butt area (after digging out the expandable foam) with sand. I filled the hollows in the forearm with sand and epoxied over that to hold it in place. While doing all that I also bedded the action. I can now comfortably shoot 20 rounds from the bench w/o flinching and the rifle is not to heavy to carry hunting. The added weight actually makes the rifle more stable shooting off hand.

[Rebels7]

I have adjusted several of these triggers and the sear screw made the most difference. I didn't change the wire or do any lapping and got a clean trigger with about 3-4 lb break. This page shows were the sear screw goes http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage/ . You can have a smith or machinist drill and tap the hole for screw or a member here may have an old one they aren't attached to very much for a reasonable price.

[95GTSpeedDemon]

It could be your jerking the trigger because of the mags recoil. I had a Savage 110 in 7mm mag and the tupperware stock was beating me to death on the bench. I rebarreled it to 30-06 and the recoil was still hard to take. I couldn't afford to replace the stock so decided to work with it. I replaced the thin factory recoil pad with a softer sorbethane one (cutting the stock down the thickness of the pad). I filled the hollow butt area (after digging out the expandable foam) with sand. I filled the hollows in the forearm with sand and epoxied over that to hold it in place. While doing all that I also bedded the action. I can now comfortably shoot 20 rounds from the bench w/o flinching and the rifle is not to heavy to carry hunting. The added weight actually makes the rifle more stable shooting off hand.

i know its b/c of the recoil. i shot that gun since i was 13 and it started back then. it doesnt hurt that much now, but i figured out last night the stock is too short. i cut off 1 - 1 1/2in for the recoil pad and the scope has a very narrow eye relief window. with my eye in the right spot, the stock isnt against my shoulder tight enough, so im fighting to keep the gun steady and not hit my eye.
the gun weighs 10lb 10oz with bi-pod. if i cant get a beavertail stock or shock type butt and adj. cheek piece then im breaking out the bondo. i stuffed the stock with news paper but i guess sand will be in order.
im going to widen the stock if i can find a wider recoil pad and raise the comb. i have a lace up comb but it keeps moving.
my 22lr weighs 9lb 3oz from the bondo (plastic stock that was flimsy in the rear and i fixed that lol) and its light enough. i figure i can add 2lbs to the weight and see what happens.
the trigger may not need to be addressed if i can get the felt recoil down.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4209/avs|Make~~Model_1=Savage%20Arms__110/ttver=1/Product/ULTIMATE-VARMINT-STOCK
anyone used this stock; worth buying? i really would like a piston grip or thumb hole. i never did like the grip the regular stocks have.

[Escondido]

I have the exact same rifle as yours and HAD the same problems. First I had a muzzle brake installed, then bought a Timney trigger and last found (constantly checked eBay and Gunbroker) a great used laminate stock to replace the factory plastic stock. Am really pleased with it now. Next I will pillar bed the stock and then I expect some great groups. Currently getting less than 1 MOA at 100 yds (a better shooter than I could probably shrink that even more). Good luck.

[95GTSpeedDemon]

I have the exact same rifle as yours and HAD the same problems. First I had a muzzle brake installed, then bought a Timney trigger and last found (constantly checked eBay and Gunbroker) a great used laminate stock to replace the factory plastic stock. Am really pleased with it now. Next I will pillar bed the stock and then I expect some great groups. Currently getting less than 1 MOA at 100 yds (a better shooter than I could probably shrink that even more). Good luck.

the best i ever did with this gun is like 1.25 inch @ 100
the normal is minute of deer lol
i missed several deer when i first started shooting it.

[95GTSpeedDemon]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...ProductDescrip
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...ProductDescrip
just ordered.

[GaCop]

Part of your accuracy problem could very well be the UTG scope your using too.

[95GTSpeedDemon]

I had $70 centerpoint that held center after a box. Target turrets started to go right and up upon adj. Nearing end of travel

[95GTSpeedDemon]

got the stock and trigger in 1.5 days. +1 for midway!
i personally love the feel of the stock. makes it feel like a real rifle vs a child's play toy.
best part is that it weighs basically the same. sans the slip on recoil pad its 1oz heavier using the same scale.
the barrel does look like a tiny pencil now, but i dont mind.

[95GTSpeedDemon]

the only modification to the stock i had to do was because of the Rifle basix SAV-1 trigger. it turned out to be longer and hit the stock. light dremeling fixed it right up.
btw, that was an easy replacement. easy to set up. i have it set with minimal creep / enough sear engagement that its safe. i dont know what the pull weight is yet; need to find a gauge.

once i shoot it sat, i may skim bed it. if it shoots good enough, i will leave it alone.
im gearing up for the deer trip in MO. in November.

[95GTSpeedDemon]

forgot to add, the stock is 12.5in from trigger to butt pad. it comes with 3 spacers too add on. 1/4in, 1/2in and 3/4in. you will need longer screws to use all 3 spacers (they supply a couple lengths).