Its my old hunting rifle dad let me use when i was a kid, yea a kid. 13-15yrs old cant handle a synthetic stock 7 mag, it kicked my butt.
Time to go hunting again, only 7yrs later.
I put a limbsaver pad on it, added a little weight in the back, put a winchester bi-pod, used a centerpoint 4-16x40 mill dot scope (thank god it handled the recoil, 23 shots so far) and took it shooting.
i got about a 1 moa @ 100yds out of it, with a couple that i jerked and sent to left field.
The trigger and i can not seem to get along. the pull wight is too much and i cant mentally hold the rifle steady and tight and pull the heavy trigger without a quick pull which will kill the accuracy.
My question is, can i do the .040 wire trick and knock the pull weight a considerable/noticeable amount?
or should i look into a trigger/group; & which one?
mainly a hunting rifle, if i can get some 400 or so yd paper shots, i will have a little fun doing that.
The wire will help the trigger. Also if it is a 3 screw, it can be adjusted so it breaks very cleanly.
I would also suggest a newer stock. I had a 308 from that era that just kicked my butt. To me, laminates and aftermarket stocks feel much better and transmit the recoil better as well.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
10lbs 4oz and limbsaver recoil pad have become my friend. My shoulder has not hurt at all, my head did hurt for a little bit, it makes a ton of pressure lolOriginally Posted by geargrinder
the remy 870 may kick more now.
i guess i will try the wire trick out first. What type of wire is normally used?
yes, it has 4 alan screws, 2 for safety, 1 at sear, 1 for wire.
Yep, that's a 3-screw. Here's a thread on how to adjust it.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,19414.0.html
You can also send a PM to 243shooter here. If you send him a SASE he will send you some .040 spring wire for free.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
whats an SASE?
Self addressed stamped envelope. I would polish the sear and try the three screw adjustment first. HOWEVER...this process can be dangerous if done incorrectly. Things like the gun going off on bolt closure is way uncool. BE CAREFUL or seek help.
Yes, a plain letter size envelope size is fine. He's been doing it for a while. An unbelievable gesture.
Try the screws and the wire first. Polishing the sear is not often done or needed after adjusting the trigger and replacing the wire.
Those two things are easy for a 1st timer and can easily be undone. Polishing is up a skill level or two.
Take your time and work slow. Be safe.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I wont need to polish mine, its well worn from use and not notchy/gritty feeling, just stiff.
It's not cheap, but get a muzzle brake, and a pair of ear muffs/plugs.....you will not shoot it to it's potential till you stop anticipating that wicked "thump" that happens when you jerk(and you will) the trigger...there are brakes out there now that will reduce recoil almost 60%, maybe more...there are guys here that can give more accurate %s ...but it will be worth it, when all the shots make one ragged hole.....rsbhunter
If you stand for nothing, Then you'll fall for anything!
i may consider it one day, but not yet. my dad has a a-bolt w/ the break in 7mm and i hate it b/c its so freakin loud.
Concerning the trigger, my 110 7mag has a stiff one without the spring even touching. I adjusted the tension so the spring was not touching and the pull is still around 4+lbs I would guess... I adjusted it back to where there was a little tension from the spring wire for safety, but I'm not happy with the trigger at all. Any thoughts (other than buy a new one, that's eventually the plan)?
Follow the link in my post above. It will show you how to properly adjust the trigger. You need to have tension.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I did, that's what I was trying to say... even when adjusted way out- without the spring tension- it's still like a 4 lbs pull. After discovering this, I then adjusted the spring back to tension... No worries, it shoots OK, just with a stiff pull. I'll just replace it. I have a Rem 700 in 30-06 with stock trigger, just lightened, that is under or at 3lbs and shoots great. The anticipation of the heavier recoil coupled with the light weight and heavy trigger make this Savage 7mag tougher to shoot accurately.
On a side note, the cheap Winchester ammo from Wal Mart has an ES of 140fps. :P I'm blaming that on my not so great groups. :D
Did you adjust the other screws? You make it sound like you only adjusted the screw for the spring.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
No sir, I did not. The "creep" is decent- about the same as my Rem. Since I didn't adjust the creep, I didn't need to adjust the safety. My only goal was to reduce the pull weight. ???
What about the sear adjustment screw? That is the one that has the biggest effect to the trigger pull.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
You really need to do all of the adjustments in the link that was provided.
Man and man's best friend. Still looking at the green side of sod
Ok, I'll do it right now and report my findings. I'll confess, I don't expect it to help, but I hope it does.
OK, I fail guys. Before, I was only interested in the pull weight. Now that I look at the trigger in detail, it appears I have a 2-screw trigger. It does not have the sear adjustment screw. Is there a procedure for adjusting this one? I searched but either didn't know what I was looking at ::) or I couldn't find it. Sorry for the confusion.
[img width=600 height=450]http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/157/triggeretc003.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/4670/triggeretc002.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9844/triggeretc001.jpg[/img]
Is that the original trigger wire?
Yes, I picked it up used from a pawn shop on the cheap so as far as I know everything's stock.
I'd bet your trigger pull would lighten up a fair bit if you replace it with 0.040" wire.
I think you're right, but I may just replace it with a SSS Competition trigger. I looked at the Jard, but the pull weight is not adjustable. If I ever build a target rifle, the Jard might be the way to go, but for hunting I think the SSS might be a better route... I would prefer it to be adjustable to around 3 lbs, but we'll see how the SSS does.
I want to thank 243shooter for sending me the trigger wire. it is much appreciated!
I measured the pull weight to the best of my abilities with a digital fish scale lol
6lb 1oz factory and about 4lb 8oz to 5lbs after the .040 wire.
I have a little bit more tension on the .040 wire since its not as strong and i feel as if the little bit more i loosen it will not make a big difference but could cause a problem with shock. As it sits it wont go off from being dropped.
The real test is when i take it to the range and see if i shoot any better or like the trigger feel more when i know recoil is coming.
Hey guys. Took the mag shooting 3 different times this year.
I have bedded and floated the action/barrel.
UTG 4-16x56 mill dot with adjustable objective
limbsaver recoil pad
.040 trigger wire
the gun and i are still not getting along.
the trigger is still too stiff for my liking.
i found myself still jerking the trigger and im not grouping worth a squat.
I need suggestions on what trigger and stock to replace the factory stuff. may look into a muzzle break, but the cost to thread it will likely prohibit it.
either that or i will just get a smaller caliber rifle.
just thought about this, this gun has quite a few boxes through it, whats the life span of the barrel?
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