.357/38special Bolt lift kit mod

[glOckcOma]

Did a lot of research and this seems the best way to go for me personally, but in all the posts I have read in the matter a few minor details seemed to be omitted.

Ok so I have my .357 casing now if someone could fill me in with the specifics.

How far down should I cut the casing?

What size ball bearing would be best?

What type of adhesive would be best to affix the ball bearing to the casing?

How far should i grind down the BAS?

Any info would be great, info with pics would be even better.

[Quickshot]

glockcoma, Man I can save you some precious time. I have two mod 12 Bvss and have tried this the first time it came up with the ball bearing 38 case and found it to be a waste of time, no noticable change. This time it came up so I thought maybe with the spacer under the BAS it will make a difference and about an hour ago I went through the whole thing this time on the other rifle with the spacer. I can honestly say that there was no noticable improvment over the origional bolt lift. It looks as though it works with a T&T by SSS as per his tests, but for us tinkerers it is just not that good, besides at 77 I believe I'm still able to lift the bolt and when I can't anymore, I know a couple of young guys who would love to have a Savage to crank on. Quick

[geargrinder]

Did a lot of research and this seems the best way to go for me personally, but in all the posts I have read in the matter a few minor details seemed to be omitted.

Ok so I have my .357 casing now if someone could fill me in with the specifics.

How far down should I cut the casing? Down to the case head. Take the walls all the way off.

What size ball bearing would be best? A 5/32" fits in the primer pocket perfectly.

What type of adhesive would be best to affix the ball bearing to the casing? I've used red loctite and super glue. It doesn't matter much all it has to do is hold it in until you get the bolt re-assembled. It won't go anywhere after that.

How far should i grind down the BAS? You grind it by the amount of the rim thickness plus the amount the bearing protrudes from the primer pocket.

Any info would be great, info with pics would be even better.

[img width=600 height=400]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/geargrinder123/4394391758_9d141fd7e4_b-1.jpg[/img]

[geargrinder]

I've done a bunch of these. Sometimes it's tough to feel the amount of improvement.

I also follow some of these tips and tricks.

http://www.steyrscout.org/savscout.htm

I'll also check the cocking sleeve for roundness. Sometime they are a bit ovalled and drag in the bolt body. I'll polish them up a bit too.

[glOckcOma]

glockcoma, Man I can save you some precious time. I have two mod 12 Bvss and have tried this the first time it came up with the ball bearing 38 case and found it to be a waste of time, no noticable change. This time it came up so I thought maybe with the spacer under the BAS it will make a difference and about an hour ago I went through the whole thing this time on the other rifle with the spacer. I can honestly say that there was no noticable improvment over the origional bolt lift. It looks as though it works with a T&T by SSS as per his tests, but for us tinkerers it is just not that good, besides at 77 I believe I'm still able to lift the bolt and when I can't anymore, I know a couple of young guys who would love to have a Savage to crank on. Quick

Thanks Quick, but even if it helps a little it's worth a try.

Did a lot of research and this seems the best way to go for me personally, but in all the posts I have read in the matter a few minor details seemed to be omitted.

Ok so I have my .357 casing now if someone could fill me in with the specifics.

How far down should I cut the casing? Down to the case head. Take the walls all the way off.

What size ball bearing would be best? A 5/32" fits in the primer pocket perfectly.

What type of adhesive would be best to affix the ball bearing to the casing? I've used red loctite and super glue. It doesn't matter much all it has to do is hold it in until you get the bolt re-assembled. It won't go anywhere after that.

How far should i grind down the BAS? You grind it by the amount of the rim thickness plus the amount the bearing protrudes from the primer pocket.

Any info would be great, info with pics would be even better.

[img width=600 height=400]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/geargrinder123/4394391758_9d141fd7e4_b-1.jpg[/img]

perfect thank you sir ;D

[tammons]

Ok so I have my .357 casing now if someone could fill me in with the specifics.

>How far down should I cut the casing?
I just used a small tubing cutter and cut it as short as possible. It just needs to go over the end of
the part in the bolt I cant remember the name of. I measured it and it was close to the recommended
length so I called it good.

>What size ball bearing would be best?
I think its 5/32, but whatever fits in the hole, bottoms out and is about the same diameter.
I went to a bike shop and dug around through the old ball bearings.

>What type of adhesive would be best to affix the ball bearing to the casing?
I used JB Weld, 24 hour

>How far should i grind down the BAS?
I decided not to do this. I went to Ace hardware and found a bronze trust washer that was exactly
the right thickness, IE within a few thou.

If you want me to measure it let me know.

[gotcha]

Just installed a Stockade BL kit.( $7.50) It uses a 1/8th inch ball bearing. Took my BAS to alocal machine shop & had a detent pocket drilled into the center. ( $10.00 ) This traps and centers the ball bearing. No additional spacers needed, bolt handle centers in receiver slot/cut. The Stockade kit comes w/ the the ball bearing glued to the spacer & centered. On 1st assembly the ball bearing came loose. I then put grease in the detent hole and CAREFULLY assembled. Worked that time! But wait, I was building a new rifle & decided to lap the lugs. The wear marks on lugs were very uneven. I put a washer cut from c-moly on the face of the chamber, slathered 280 grit lapping compound (from my scope lapping tool kit) into the internal lugs. screwed in the bbl 'til the washer lightly touched the bolt nose. By screwing the bbl in & out I could adjust the lapping pressure. Lapped the lugs to about 80% contact. Then chkd bolt lift again. A little more improve ment! Then cleaned out lapping compound & relapped w/ metal polish only, so the bolt lugs & internal lug shelf shined like the bumpers on my 1949 Hudson (daily driver). This is when the mods REALLY came together for smoooothe, light bolt lift. If you try this, be careful in removing material from lugs & lug recesses as it could effect timing & possibly ruin an otherwise serviceable receiver...................... I'm sure the advocates of the floating bolt face will cringe. But if all the "float" is taken up by uneven lug contact. What's the point? ............... It worked for me & I'd be most interested in comments..... Thanks ,dale