Reply With QuoteAssuming you have done all the basics like a good cleaning, checking the bedding, checking the barrel clearance, and tightning the action screws, let one of your buddies give it a try. You might check out the scope and mounts, too.
uj
i bought a new model 10 predator (non accustock, mossy oak brush) in 22/250 for 400 bucks. i tried various ammo and have settled on hornady 55gr v-max. here is my problem, the gun has never shot better than 1moa. i own 6 savages and all my bull guns will shoot well under 1moa. i do not reload but i do buy good ammo when shooting for groups. again i have tried various brands grains and tips. i have cleaned it, i have torqued the action in small incraments to get the tightest groups (40 ftlbs seems to be the ticket). am i asking too much? i just think this gun should do much better like 1/2 moa. i know it depends on shooter and i am ablr to shoot .2 to .3 on a fairly regular basis so i know i can shoot better than 1moa. any suggestions?????
Assuming you have done all the basics like a good cleaning, checking the bedding, checking the barrel clearance, and tightning the action screws, let one of your buddies give it a try. You might check out the scope and mounts, too.
uj
My 12FV shot like crap with everything (as bad as 5MOA @ 100yds) until I put it in a real stock. The forend on that non-accustock is really springy and it will cause your groups to open up. I doubt that installing a quality stock will turn it into a true 1/2 MOA rifle (that is really a lot more spectacular than most people realize) but it should definitely get it reliably under an inch @ 100.
I hope you mean 40 inch-pounds.Originally Posted by rez187
Could be that you don't have enough rounds through it yet? Remember, all guns don't shoot the same at first.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Might need some more break in, or could be the stock, but 2 out of 3 of my better guns still ride in synthetic Savage stocks and shoot in the .3s and .4s. I say keep it up for a little while and see if the barrel breaks in.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
I owm 5 savage rifles and my tightest grouping gun still sports a factory barrel and the synthetic stock it came with. Just have to put the front bag in the right spot and all is well. I certainly wouldn't give up quite yet have afriend make you up some reloads from your empty brass.
Possibly tension the barrel? Try putting a piece of old credit card or the like between the forearm and barrel near the end of the forearm. No guarantees, but costs almost nothing to try. If it is the tupperware stock, the pressure of tensioning the barrel may cause the forearm to give too much and not supply enough pressure to stabilize the barrel. For what it is worth........
I think the real question is, where does one find a Model 10 Predator for $400????
762X51, you find an answer to that one you be sure to let us know.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
absolutely
”I have a very strict gun control policy: if there’s a gun around, I want to be in control of it.”
~Clint Eastwood
scheels in reno had 4 brand new one 22-250, 223x2, 204 i took the 22-250.
I floated my Stevens 200 factory 270 barrel in the tupperware stock, along with the tang. The barrel to date has 60 rounds through it. My best groups to date have been .409", .638", .778", .997" with the Sierra 115 grain BTHP which is designed for the 6.8 SPC. I clean the barrel after each firing and have yet to get more than a hint of copper fouling unlike most factory barrels which are "copper mines".
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
you shouldve bought them all, because around here they'll bring more than that used. check to make sure the front scope base screw is not too long and giving you a false sense of being tight.
Rez,
It ought to do better than that. I'd recheck scope mounting, looking at the base screws, particularly the front base, to make sure the screws aren't bottoming out on the barrell threads. you can file/grind a little off the threads if needed. After I'm sure that the bedding isn't an issue, that the recoil lug is in firm contact with the stock, and the barrel is free-floated, I start looking real hard at the scope and mounting system if a gun isn't performing as expected....... I've had to bed several scope bases on Savages to take torque out of the bases to make them shoot really well - you can't assume that the top surface of the action is even and parallel. Lay a rule on it and see if you see any gaps.....and on my last Savage in 22-250, I used JB bore paste on the barrel before I shot it, and it turned out to be a real shooter - probably my best Savage barrel.
Elkbane
I had a Savage 22-250 a few years ago that I bought from a friend. He said that he just couldn't get it to shoot that well. I did the same things you have done and got mediocre results. Finally went with Bruce Hodgdon's famous load of 38g of H380 with the 52g Sierra's and that rifle was transformed. That's all I ever shot in it.
thanks for all the good advise. ive checked mounts for tightness but didnt check for plumbness of mount holes from factory. ill try the stock issue thing to see if that helps. i just really was disappointed with its performance. yes i did get a smoking deal on it. i didnt buy more as my wife would have killed me!
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