Reply With QuoteTorque the front 65 and the rear 55 in/lbs. Don't use loctite!
Someone tell me not to use locktite red, because I'm about to. It's already backed out of locktited blue
I just JB weld bedded it because it needed more contact pad area as it is, and this just went from 35in lbs to 25 in lbs in 6 shots. Yes I've used to sequence savage suggests.
It's a 300wm 110 LA but it's braked and doesn't punish you with recoil.
I don't have any other options but trying green, then next red. I'm gonna sell the entire setup if I have to use the Tupperware stock. They are ugly and I don't hunt lol. I got it for a nice cloney build. It ain't working for me.
Any advice would be awesome.
Torque the front 65 and the rear 55 in/lbs. Don't use loctite!
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Maybe an external tooth star type lockwasher???
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Make sure the recoil lug is in full contact with the lug recess. If it isn't, the action screws absorb the recoil, and could vibrate the screw loose. I had to bed the V block and lug in my Choate to achieve proper alignment. Might be worth a look.
Yep I had to go up in tq'. Wasn't enough with larger caliber. 65 65 and it held, now I can find tune the front.
I ended up bedding the v block and a bit of the lug. It's def making contact
is the bolt head underside seated consistantly flush all way around, cuz maybe the face of the insert in stock is at angle, and bolt head not setaing flat, w/ only contact on one side.
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