Advice converting 110 Varmint from 22-250 to 20 Practical

[218bee]

Greetings all, new member here. Being retired and enjoying minor gunsmithing, reloading, and shooting, after talking with a friend, I decided maybe I need a new project.

I have a brand new 110 Varmint heavy barrel, blued, black synthetic stock mdel#57067 (i think). Bought maybe 5-6 yrs ago? Bought for a good price but never fired it. I have a Rem 788 22/250 for coyotes and its a beater and light so easy to carry around and don't care if it gets dinged up.

Anyway, thought of trying to sell the Savage but then got the idea from friend to do a barrel swap cartridge conversion. This would be a "bench" gun for targets and varmints. Guy said to try 20 Practical which he really likes as far as accuracy and simplicity of loading. I guess you can use 223 dies with a smaller neck bushing and 20 cal decapper/inside neck expander. Thats how I came to choosing the cartridge, but now for some questions.

So the 110 is a Long action correct?? some say "could" also be short action??

Looking at Pre-Fit barrels, how do I know long or short shank??

Should I order a new barrel nut?

Since the model 110 I have also came in 223 and 204 I assume a 223 magazine would be plug and play??

I'll need a new bolt head for 223 which is where I'm most confused. I don't think I've seen a bolt head that states 223 Long Action? Some sites say .400 dia firing pin?? I guess I would buy a "kit" for bolt head that has new extractor, plunger and springs?? I just so far have not seen a bolt head that hits me as yeah thats it.

Anyway, I was directed to come here to hopefully get my questions answered and get whatever advice you guys may want to share. Forgive me if I tend to over-think some stuff.

So please fell free to jump in with any tips or places I can find the parts I need. Does Savage sell parts? I couldn't find link on their site. I see Pacific Tool and Guage has some pricey bolt heads that may require fitting. I'm thinking others would be plug and play??

I better stop this as probably some guys dropped off already reading my jibberish.

Thanks guys.

[Robinhood]

Unless your action was a Short action magnum or a target action, The chance of you having the larger diameter barrel tenon threads is unlikely. The small Tenon barrel threads should measure just under 1.0625, as in 1.055 plus or minus. It uses the longer barrel nut. Barrel nut length is a common indicator of the size tenon you have.

You can determine the action length by measuring the action screw spacing center to center.

To do a 20 practical with your current 22-250, your bolt head will need to be changed, the new barrel will need to be head spaced and the firing pin protrusion may need to be adjusted depending on your firing pin design.

You will need to find a 223 magazine unless you want to single load. you might need a single shot sled to make it easier.

All in all there are better options for less hassle. Like buying a 223 and changing out the barrel to the 20 practical. Donskey

If you have a VLP, that is a beauty and I would not want to do many things to alter it to where it could not be put all back to factory. It is your rifle and Savage 110's short actions can be modified from a 223 to a WSM and more. After you have modifed 30 or 40 you realize it might have been better to just buy something closer and change just the barrel. Blah Blah Blah. Then again it the journey for some that make life grand. To quote on of our favorite contributors..."what a ride".

[jpx2rk]

Most people use new/aftermarket barrel nut and recoil lug when doing a barrel swap, but there is no requirement to. Aftermarket nut/lugs are usually a better quality, but most cannot shoot the difference between the two. Swapping out the bolt head is a fairly simple process, just need the correct parts. You can also just order an entire new bolt with the correct bolt head size if desired (MidwayUSA). X-Caliber has prefits, and they shoot well, but there are other sources as well. X Caliber offers 20% off sales on a regular basis around holidays, etc., so. I suggest an 11 Twist as this should ensure you can shoot 40g bullets and lighter. Some 12 twist barrels don't/won't shoot the 40's very well, it's hit or miss.

You will need the bushing type dies to neck down 223 brass to 20P, just google how to make 20 P brass, and you will find several days worth of reading. LOL

[218bee]

I know there would be easier ways to go about this, but don't want to buy another rifle to do this. I want to try and convert the rifle I have, and play around with the 20 Practical and then maybe try another in a year or two.
My main hiccup at this point is not knowing what bolt head to search for. When I see one whether in stock or not, description usually says 223 SA for short action I presume, but specs say fits 10/110.
I don't want to order the wrong parts. Changing bolt head and extractor etc looks pretty straight-forward and even adjusting firing pin is do-able.
I'm old and just enjoy reloading and shooting and figured this would be a cool project.
Does Savage sell parts??
I couldn't find on their website but used "contact" link to e-mail them.
Any help is most appreciated!

[PhilC]

Do you still have the original box? If yes, what's the info on the label (don't need ser#)?

Check out the FAQ there's a lot of info there that might help with knowing what you have - https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...3-savage-faq-s

[Robinhood]

Right hand bolt head for 20 practical:

https://www.gunshack.com/savage-repl...t-head-223-rem

Front Baffle:

https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...on-bolt-baffle

Magazine for 20 practical:

Same as 223 find on used market or use a single shot sled

Barrel:

https://northlandshooterssupply.com/...arrels-savage/

Barrel Nut:

https://northlandshooterssupply.com/...e-small-shank/


Tools:

"Barrel nut wrench"

https://northlandshooterssupply.com/...el-nut-wrench/

Action Wrench:

https://northlandshooterssupply.com/action-wrench/

223 Head space gauges:

https://northlandshooterssupply.com/...dspace-gauges/


There are other places to get your stuff. This gives you a way to research by using google and querying the terms you will find on those pages. Your budget and your preferences dictate that.

This website(Savage Shooters) also has articles and FAQs that can educate you. All thanks to Jim Baker and the knowledgeable contributors over the years. You will find many opinions on what is best, some of these guys are really up to date on the top equipment and that can save you some setbacks.

You can hava a lot of fun doing your own research. Spoon feeding you will not help you in your desire to continuously reconfigure your time and again. I wish you all of the luck and if you would, please start a thread so we can follow along and offer praise and advice while on the journey. I know it will help others that are on your same path.

[shoots100]

I know there would be easier ways to go about this, but don't want to buy another rifle to do this. I want to try and convert the rifle I have, and play around with the 20 Practical and then maybe try another in a year or two.
My main hiccup at this point is not knowing what bolt head to search for. When I see one whether in stock or not, description usually says 223 SA for short action I presume, but specs say fits 10/110.
I don't want to order the wrong parts. Changing bolt head and extractor etc looks pretty straight-forward and even adjusting firing pin is do-able.
I'm old and just enjoy reloading and shooting and figured this would be a cool project.
Does Savage sell parts??
I couldn't find on their website but used "contact" link to e-mail them.
Any help is most appreciated!

I get where your coming from, but it's not just easier to use a .223 donor rifle for the conversion, it's way less hassle too.
I converted a savage axis .223 into a 20 practical in an hour's time.
The only parts that need to be changed are the barrel and barrel nut if you mess it up removing it.
The rifle cost me $250 brand new and I bet you could get a used one for a lot less.
No issues ordering the wrong parts or with having to mess with bolt head/firing pin compatibility and different cartridge magazine fitment/feeding issues.
That equals more time at the bench and range having fun.

SJC

[218bee]

Thanks for all the advice and info. I believe I'm going to go ahead with this project and see how everything goes. It will be a learning experience for me to be sure.
Like I said I have the time, and enjoy the time I spend in my "office" working on guns and reloading.
"Robinhood" thanks for detailed info. Not sure about "front baffle"???
"PhilC" I do have box so I will try and post pic of label, also pic of action, bolt, magazine for reference in case anyone is interested.
I thought I bought about 5yrs ago, but found paperwork in box, bought in June 2022. I lose track of time anymore. Yellow sticker on box 052422 don't know if thats when store got it, or Savage shipped it?
Thanks again for all the input. I certainly have some research now, but know better where to start.

OH, thought I could post image from my PC but I guess I need to use a webservice. I'll see if I can figure that out.

[218bee]

I guess I need 15 posts to be able to upload images.

[LDSILLS]

218Bee...I like the name!

---So the 110 is a Long action correct?? some say "could" also be short action??
Straight from the net its very true and I could not say is better...(I tend to write loooooong ugh!)


Short-action rifles have an action length of 2.3”-2.8”, long-action or standard length actions are 2.8”-3.34”, magnum actions are 3.6”, and the mini-action is 2.3” or less.
The Caliber rule of thumb is short actions span .223 to 6.5 Creedmore. I think of something like a something like a 30-06 is the start of long actions. Then there’s the magnum actions like a 375 H&H.
Again when in doubt measure it.

--Looking at Pre-Fit barrels, how do I know long or short shank??


--- Should I order a new barrel nut?
That depends on if you torque or use a "removable, or non-seizure thread locker like Blue Locktite." These following advise comes from being an old mechanical engineer before calculator engineer HAHA! .When it comes to reuse of torqued nuts…I always say NO. I will also recommend changing the nut on any torqued threaded fitting. Reason is torquing distorts the lands on threads. That distortion is required so mating of frictional surfaces is as big as it can be. Ensure a 95% confidence is apparent to prevent loosening. Indeed both female and male threads are distorted during torquing and the 95% confidence that sufficient frictional surfaces exit can no longer be met. However a person can chase the male threads and add a nut with virgin threads of the same material to achieve approximately a 85% confidence of no loosening. A person may most of the time you get away with just changing the nut? Well that’s because if you cannot chase the male threads, you can visually inspect them and do a trail fit. Typically if you do not see any deflection in the lands in a visual inspection and the new virgin nut can be easily run in and out with just hand tightening you have a fitting that’s acceptable for torquing to original specifications. If the 'same' connection material used.
I RECOMMEND NEVER EVER REUSE AN OLD TORQUED NUT ON NEW NEWLY THREADED BARRELS and JUST TORQUE IT! Also, if you purchase a barrel use the new nut available from the barrel manufacture. NEWnut to new barrel is because normally both the barrel and nut are usually are like-for-like material.

Okay enough of torquing If you prefer to just use the same nut on a barrel you just removed go for it and apply non-seizure thread locker like Blue Locktite. BUT NO NEED TO TORQUE! Just snug it up and then apply another ~1/4 turn. I would stick with locktiite as their reputation goes way back to 1956 and they meet many ASME standards for fastening.

Both methods will work. As neither are affected by recoil. When using a thread locker Do not worry about recoil as non-seizure thread locker like Blue Loctite remains flexible for nearly a lifetime. I have personally tested Blue Loctite in a vibration lab to military specs annotated in MIL Spec 810.

--I'll need a new bolt head for 223 which is where I'm most confused. I don't think I've seen a bolt head that states 223 Long Action? Some sites say .400 dia firing pin?? I guess I would buy a "kit" for bolt head that has new extractor, plunger and springs?? I just so far have not seen a bolt head that hits me as yeah that’s it.

I strongly recommend just sending the bolt and action it to Fred and Lisa and Sharp Shooters supply. (http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/) via this email address. (sshooter@wcoil.com) and tell them your plans. I say this as in my thread SAVAGE 12 BVSS to 6mmBR (https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...BR-build/page2) I did not send it off right away to Fred and I found myself starting to run into action and bolt dislikes. I probably spent 60 hours or more investigating and trying different things on my own. Yep, I learned a lot along the way about Savage 110 bolts and actions. Much from great guys on here. But the bottomline, I didn't have the equipment or decades of gun-smithing expertise to really make the bolt or action fit my needs or wants. So off to Fred and Lisa the bolt and action went. It came back exactly how I wanted it.

[218bee]

Thanks LDSILLS.
So I now believe I have a short action 110.
I saw where if you measure the distance between the action screws (what holds action in stock) 5" would be long action and 4.4" would be Gen3 short action. Mine are 4.4".
Rifle is only 2yrs old, so I guess that makes sense.

[PhilC]

Model # 57067 is a 110 Varmint in 22-250 - https://www.savagearms.com/content?p...ummary&s=57066

[DiRTY DOG]

I'm in the middle of building a 20P from my old 223 model 12. I have everything but the stock...

24" Criterion 1:11 heavy sporter from NSS
NSS barrel nut & lug
Bell & Carlson sporter
Atlasworx detachable bottom metal
AICS 5-rnd mag
Rifle Basix 1 trigger
223 Rem go guage
Redding 223 Rem FL bushing sizer
RCBS Competition seater w/window & sleeve

It's sometimes easier to apply heat and then remove the barrel nut with a 15" pipe wrench (and ruin the nut) vs the effort of trying to save the old nut. They can be buggers.

[Robinhood]

Thanks for all the advice and info. I believe I'm going to go ahead with this project and see how everything goes. It will be a learning experience for me to be sure.
Like I said I have the time, and enjoy the time I spend in my "office" working on guns and reloading.
"Robinhood" thanks for detailed info. Not sure about "front baffle"???
"PhilC" I do have box so I will try and post pic of label, also pic of action, bolt, magazine for reference in case anyone is interested.
I thought I bought about 5yrs ago, but found paperwork in box, bought in June 2022. I lose track of time anymore. Yellow sticker on box 052422 don't know if thats when store got it, or Savage shipped it?
Thanks again for all the input. I certainly have some research now, but know better where to start.

OH, thought I could post image from my PC but I guess I need to use a webservice. I'll see if I can figure that out.

Do you have a question about the front baffle? It is not required but it will operate more like a 20 practical rather than a 20-308