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Thread: jard 3 position safety

  1. #1
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    jard 3 position safety


    The 3 position safety on my Ultralite is ok, but not near as positive as my haymaker or high country. Debating on the jard safety. What's the level of difficulty removing/replacing the safety? Anyone have experience w/ the jard safety? thanks

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    It’s not difficult to replace. However, adjustment requires a level of understanding as to prevent unneeded aggravation. To be honest, a slight adjustment will very likely achieve the positive engagement you’re after. It’s the adjustment which can set apart a firm, crisp Safety from a mushy-spongy one. There are two adjustments for a 3-screw Trigger safety operation, & only one adjustment for the Accutrigger safety.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ultratec00 View Post
    The 3 position safety on my Ultralite is ok, but not near as positive as my haymaker or high country. Debating on the jard safety. What's the level of difficulty removing/replacing the safety? Anyone have experience w/ the jard safety? thanks
    Welcome. Assume You are talking about the latest Jard Savage replacement trigger, which is a total replacement? If You purchase that trigger alone, You have NO safety. The original Savage safety will not work with it. It is .060” too tall. In order to have a safety in the new Jard trigger, You must purchase the Jard safety bar separately, a cost of $49.95 plus shipping. This Jard safety bar will not work with any other Savage trigger, if that’s what You were thinking of doing, and it does not have the adjustment screw in it like the Savages. Personally, most of us work with Savage as its own entity, rather than make it something it can’t be. But improvement can be accomplished.

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    It, being the Jard trigger, works with the 3-position safety. If you have an Accutrigger, the Jard trigger will work with its 3-position safety. The Jard Safety is only needed if your rifle has a 2-position Safety and want to use the Jard trigger & have a working safety. I believe the OP’s rifle is an Accutrigger, correct? However, I wasn’t sure if you looking to replace the trigger or not. However, yes, as was said, if you have the Accutrigger, the Jard Safety will not work with it or any other trigger.

    And once again, simple adjustment will likely give you the answer you’re looking for. Oh, but you must first remove the plastic underneath the screw head. Just drill it out carefully.

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    I'm not looking to replace the trigger. Already replaced the accutrigger w/ rifle basix and am satisfied.. Looking for ways to make the safety more positive or replace w/ a Jard 3 position.. It's just spungy , unlike my other 110s which have positive safeties. Only difference being those two have Timney triggers vs. the rifle basix..

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    Quote Originally Posted by ultratec00 View Post
    I'm not looking to replace the trigger. Already replaced the accutrigger w/ rifle basix and am satisfied.. Looking for ways to make the safety more positive or replace w/ a Jard 3 position.. It's just spungy , unlike my other 110s which have positive safeties. Only difference being those two have Timney triggers vs. the rifle basix..

    Gotchya. Ok, right.. you need to do what I described in my first response. Need to adjust the Trigger Safety Screw so it has a tighter fit against the Safety Bar. This will give the positive snap into position you’re looking for.

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    Tightened the trigger safety screw last night, just made it stiff and a little worse. On a whim, I'm going to take the timney off my high country and swap out the rifle basix to see if that is the issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Gotchya. Ok, right.. you need to do what I described in my first response. Need to adjust the Trigger Safety Screw so it has a tighter fit against the Safety Bar. This will give the positive snap into position you’re looking for.

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    Can’t simply tighten one screw & expect it to be perfect. As with every Savage Trigger, the settings share a relationship with one another. Adjusting one, can counter another. It’s wise to study this relationship for a better understanding of function. You’ve heard the term tuning the trigger. The adjustments working together is what this refers to. Every aftermarket trigger has a guide, a series of steps in setting each adjustment in specific order.

    It’s not the trigger itself controlling the safety function. Rather, it’s merely a set screw on the trigger coming in contact with the Safety Bar. The Factory Accutrigger, RifleBasix, SSS, Timney, Elfmann & MCARBO all use the same Savage factory Safety Bar. The new Jard uses it’s on but only for the older 2-position Safety Bar. (As we’ve already discussed) Now, it could be parts are worn causing play and overall bad feel. (Much like teeth of meshing gears will wear & round causing added play/slack, which ultimately will develop noise, roughness, etc. in operation.) However, you can inspect the parts for wear or damage. If none is seen, I still believe it’s proper adjustment that will deliver the goods.

    Good luck.

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    There are some differences between the Rifle Basix and Timney.. The Rifle Basix has an over-travel screw. I tinkered w/ the various screws and it improved a little, not much. Pulled the trigger and the safety was free moving to all three positions and felt like the safety on the high country w/ the Timney. Swapped to the Timney, did the necessary adjustments, and the safety felt normal. Looking closely, I believe the culprit was the pull weight spring, which looks to ride on the bottom of the safety bar.

  10. #10
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    Yet another reason I prefer the Accutrigger. The Trigger spring rides on the bottom of the Action Tang. Only the Safety will touch the Safety Bar. And in the case of my Target Accutrigger, the set screw I added for Overtravel stop.

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