Firing pin spring question

[TommyD11730]

So I have a 12FV 223 bolt that's probably between 1500-2000 rounds. The bolt has been bushed.
I was thinking of replacing the firing pin spring. My thought was to measure installed spring height and make sure the new spring matches the old measurement.

Sound right? I guess I'm basing my installed height on the notion the bolt busher set it correctly.

[Dave Hoback]

People over think this to much. You don’t have to measure the spring height. The only thing to measure is the firing pin protrusion from the bolt face. Set that first. It should be approx .035” from the surface of the bolt face. I would never set it over .040”. (Actually I wouldn’t even set it that high.. it’s a waste!) Next thing it install the spring & the Cocking Piece. Then turn the cocking piece on as far as you can, to get the Cocking Pin (once installed), as close to the edge of the bolt sleeve, in the fired position, as possible. Setting Protrusion to .035” and the Cocking Piece down as far as possible maximizes the firing pin Travel, or Fall, it’s also sometimes called. Firing Pin Travel is a very crucial part of the operation. And it’s often overlooked. The system only starts with roughly .250” to begin with! Setting pin protrusion to .050”+, having the Cocking Piece set way back, not to mention other minor losses, could result in .080” or more could be lost. This is one of the first things I check (besides broken or damaged parts), when addressing light primer strike misfires. Just getting back the full travel could very well fix many of the problems of light strikes out there. Another trick is to thread the Cocking Piece all the way through, and use a set screw in the back of the Cocking Piece. (Picture below) Screw it in until the set screw touches the Cocking Pin. It is threaded 1/4”-28 and I use 3/16” long set screws that I then shorten even more & round the head. This eliminates the play between the Cocking Piece hole & Pin and prevents the Cocking Pin from leaning due to the tension under cocking. Look at it while cocked, you’ll see what I mean. The Cocking Pin will be canted Backwards slightly, thus allowing the Firing Pin to lurch forward and ultimately losing even more Travel.

[Dave Hoback]

I actually found this older thread talking of the very thing I’m referring to. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...tilted-in-bolt

Making a new Cocking Piece is also a remedy. I’ve already machined a new Titanium Cocking Pin & using it. I was planning to also make a Cocking Piece from Titanium. Just haven’t yet. Besides, the set screw just works so well.

[TommyD11730]

Great reply. Thanks for the info. Can you suggest a SA firing pin spring for my 12FV. One that hopefully will not increase bolt lift. Thanks!

[Dave Hoback]

Why do you believe yours needs replaced? Actually, you have a Model 12FV correct? So I believe you actually have the 1-Piece, non adjustable firing pin with the shorter stack 2-spring setup. Is that correct?

Unfortunately, no…No better springs for those as of yet, except Savage has made 1 of the springs slightly longer to combat the problem of Misfires/light primer strikes which are happening. By the way, is this by any chance the reason you had the bolt head bushed in the first place? Anyway, the slight revamp that Savage has done is nothing more than a bandaid. I do know of someone working on something of a fix with better springs. But it will be some time. Unfortunately right now the only thing to do is purchase the updated spring from Savage via GunShack.

https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...nspring-1-2018

[TommyD11730]

I had the bolt bushed because it was cratering primers.
As for the reason to replace the spring? It's just a habit I go into on my Remington style actions. New season, new spring.

[TommyD11730]

[Dave Hoback]

Ahh… your all good brohiem! You have the adjustable firing pin and 1-piece LONG spring. No, there is no reason to replace that spring.(unless you’re just nutty like me. But that’s another story.) Nah, you’re gtg. That spring is already severely oversprung. It’s not going to weaken and will continue to deliver 100% reliability for the life of the gun.

[TommyD11730]

The firing pin was a shot in the dark, let me explain.
I only shoot 200Y paper. That action with some bolt ons shot a .420" over the course of about 1,000 rounds of 223. Normal session is 10 5 shot groups. Out of 50 shots I'm getting 1 or 2 flyers. They are bad enough that if I cherry pick and remove them my agg was closer to .388"!
This season I removed the Savage action from the equation with a "custm" action. It will be interesting to see if those flyers go away.

[Dave Hoback]

Well, I would think so if you’ll be using a Custom Action. While Savage Actions can provide for a wonderfully accurate setup, and Heaven knows my love for Savage Actions, the fact remains that ALL the shooting records for everything have been accomplished with very expensive, Custom setups. It would be like comparing a factory Mustang with some upgrades to a Formula 1 car. Just not a fair comparison.

[Mark611]

I don't know why you would not just send your action off and have it bule printed? and then run a good barrel? I have had a few Savage builds done this way and their all-tac drivers!

[TommyD11730]

I don't know why you would not just send your action off and have it bule printed? and then run a good barrel? I have had a few Savage builds done this way and their all-tac drivers!

What's it cost to blueprint a Savage? Last checked a Remmy it was cost prohibited vs buying say a Origin or the likes action.

[Dave Hoback]

Never been worth it to me. Though, I’ve never had a 10/110 in bad condition. Because of the factory specs, some Actions are worse than others. Obviously, an Action in bad shape…. Poor Lug & cam alignment/matching causing super heavy Bolt Lift, Primary Extraction not working, bolt hanging up, rough racking, etc., is going to benefit considerably more than one which isn’t terrible. Not to mention, the floating Bolt Head really eliminates much of the importance of Blueprinting, like is performed on a Rem 700. I’ve seen as many people say it was a waste money as those who say it was worth the cost.

[Mark611]

The folks I have do my work like this do all my builds as well on my precision bolt guns, I do not know what they charge for just Blueprinting the action, I also have everything I can Melonited like the action and barrel so my business with them is a package deal, you can contact them if you want to get a cost, Walnut Creek Precision, out of NC, his name is Dean,

[Mark611]

WOW, I just checked out the action you're wanting to buy! $900 from NLSS, at this point you will no longer have a Savage rifle! I don't think it costs that much to have your Savage action to be Blueprinted! Savage makes a good strong action. some of them just need trued up, with a good barrel and maybe a good trigger and stock, which is what I have done to my rifles, with custom hand loads, my 308win rifles are 1/4 moa shooters at 200m, 1 hole at 100m, what more do you want?

[Dave Hoback]

Nevermind. I see. You meant the Origin Action.

[Robinhood]

Never been worth it to me. Though, I’ve never had a 10/110 in bad condition. Because of the factory specs, some Actions are worse than others. Obviously, an Action in bad shape…. Poor Lug & cam alignment/matching causing super heavy Bolt Lift, Primary Extraction not working, bolt hanging up, rough racking, etc., is going to benefit considerably more than one which isn’t terrible. Not to mention, the floating Bolt Head really eliminates much of the importance of Blueprinting, like is performed on a Rem 700. I’ve seen as many people say it was a waste money as those who say it was worth the cost.

I'm very interested in hearing the reason this statement was made. Care to expand on that opinion.

[Robinhood]

I didn't think so.