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Thread: MKII light primer strikes/no ignition, 100% of the time

  1. #1
    New Member Gearchecker's Avatar
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    MKII light primer strikes/no ignition, 100% of the time


    I have a 22LR MKII that I picked up a while ago and have finally gone out to shoot it. I loaded the magazine and the rifle with CCI Mini-mags and also CCI Quiet-22 subs.
    Every time I pulled the trigger all I got was a click. This happened 100% of the time. When ejected the Quiet-22's had barely a nick on the rim, from the firing pin strike. The Mini-mags did have a slight impact line from the firing pin. I reloaded eavry cartridge a 2nd time just to see if they would ignite. Still 100% failure to fire. It all fired when run thru a different rifle though.
    I pulled the bolt, and the firing pin moves easily thru the bolt slot. The bolt face is clean, and the clips holding the cartridge to the bolt seem to be working fine. The extractor/extraction works perfectly as well. I've cleaned and oiled the firing pin, and slot to no avail.
    I'm guessing that the firing pin is moved forward solely by the inertia of the bolt head being slammed forward by the spring inside the bolt. I see no mechanical connection of the pin to any other part within the bolt assembly.
    So, I'm at a loss and can use some advice on what to go looking for to resolve this.


  2. #2
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    Is this a NEW rifle or N2Y? It sounds like you're on the right track, looking at the bolt spring. Did you disassemble the bolt ? I;ve found manufacturing debris inside New bolts and Old Dried up Grease even in New ones. That could be slowing the Strike. Also, Don't lube/oil the firing pin & slot. That is Bad JuJu, slows the FP. IMO

  3. #3
    New Member Gearchecker's Avatar
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    New to me

    Quote Originally Posted by Fasteddie01 View Post
    Is this a NEW rifle or N2Y? It sounds like you're on the right track, looking at the bolt spring. Did you disassemble the bolt ? I;ve found manufacturing debris inside New bolts and Old Dried up Grease even in New ones. That could be slowing the Strike. Also, Don't lube/oil the firing pin & slot. That is Bad JuJu, slows the FP. IMO
    It's new to me. I worked in a gun store and picked it up for $200. I figured I couldn't go wrong at that price. So there's lots of $$ room to make it right.
    I want to try and get it running soon, since spring is right around the corner. I've got chipmunks to deal with, and this with a can on the end will be great (if it's running).
    If all else fails I'll call Customer Service and see what they can help me with.
    This rifle has a 2 piece bolt body.


    This is what mine looks like. (the image was copied from the web)




    ?? How do I attach a photo if it's on my computer, and not stored in a photo excheange service online?
    If I don't want a new gun, call the undertaker!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearchecker View Post
    ?? How do I attach a photo if it's on my computer, and not stored in a photo excheange service online?
    Become a Team Savage member - https://www.savageshooters.com/payments.php

  5. #5
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Do you have any marks on the rim where the firing pin hits/impacts? No? You are not depressing the safety blade before the trigger and the firing pin is stopped..
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  6. #6
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    1) Go online to get YT-vid of Bolt Dis-assembly and clean it. Use a tiny bit of PTFE grease to lube internally, NOt oil that can dry and get hard/sticky. And NOT WD-40 !!
    2) I use Postimage .org for pics. FREE storage and many options for copy/paste into diff sites. And NO "Watermarks" AT ALL. Did I say FREE ??
    3) There are lots of info on rifle maintenance, here and on RimfireCentral .com for starters. Many other sites too.
    4) Maybe this prob is why the rifle was only $200 ?

  7. #7
    New Member Gearchecker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    No? You are not depressing the safety blade before the trigger and the firing pin is stopped..
    Yes, I have firing pin marks on all of the casings. Very light, but they are there for sure. Even trying a 2nd strike doesn't get them to fire, but I always have 2nd strike pin marks on all of the casings.
    I'm a lefty, so I even tried firing it right handed, just in case I might have been pulling the trigger blade sideways. It still didn't fire. So that's ruled out.

    Please explain?? I have 6 other Savage rifles with the bladed triggers, and I've never had any issues with any of them.

    Is my trigger finger sitting too high to deactivate the blade safety blade on this one?
    ** Note: I tried moving my finger lower on the trigger and still have exactly the same results. So that's probably ruled out.

    I dis-assembled the bolt, and pulled the firing pin. I polished off the sharp edges the full length of it. Still no improvement. I've considered filing down the stop edges on the firing pin, so it would punch deeper into the casing, but I'm really not sure if it's something I want to try quite yet.

    This doesn't have an accu-trigger on it. So that's ruled out.
    If I don't want a new gun, call the undertaker!

  8. #8
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  9. #9
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Potential headspace issue, weak firing pin spring, or a damaged firing pin. Also might want to check the shank of the cocking piece pin as Savage had a bad batch that didn't get hardened slip through several years back. The hardened cocking ramp of the bolt body will end up wearing away the shank on the pin which can result in a number of different issues.

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  10. #10
    New Member Gearchecker's Avatar
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    For the record - I'm 65, and have been shooting my entire life. This is the first time I've ever experienced FTF's like this. I'm really stumped on this. and I really don't want to take it to my gunsmith. Especially if I can follow all of your suggestions and possibly fix it myself.
    With the barrel removed from the stock I looked carefully at all of the springs in the fire control group, and they all have good compression and movement. None of them are bent or look stretched out.
    I have a shooting barrel in my basement, so I have been using it so I don't have any outside noises interfering with what I'm hearing, hoping I could get at least one of these cases to fire.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    You are squeezing the trigger. You are hearing the firing impact but you are not seeing impact on the rim. You say there is no binding in the firing pin. What else is happening unless the barrel moved and changed the headspace?
    Take a fired case and put it in the chamber. Carefully depress the safety blade completely and then the trigger. What happened?
    Or remove the safety blade, pull the trigger. What happened?
    I squeezed the trigger - Heard bolt drop, and firing pin impact. Very light pin mark on all casings. Firing pin slides easily in the groove on bolt, and protrudes far enough out that I feel the shot should go off.
    I removed the bolt and inserted a cartridge into the bolt face. The case retaining clip holds the casing firmly onto the bolt face, and I can't see any slop.
    I don't know if the barrel has ever been removed or messed with by the previous owner. There are no marks on the barrel, especially at the receiver that the barrel has been moved.

    With the receiver out of the stock when pulling blade and then trigger - 3 things happen that I can account for. First stage - I can see and hear the sear drop. I can see the trigger engage. 2nd stage - the bolt fires. and I can hear the firing pin click.
    For now, I prefer not to mess with the fire control group.
    I sent a service message to Savage Customer Service. Hopefully they'll respond in the next few days. I'll now proceed from there.
    If I don't want a new gun, call the undertaker!

  11. #11
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearchecker View Post

    I dis-assembled the bolt, and pulled the firing pin. I polished off the sharp edges the full length of it. Still no improvement. I've considered filing down the stop edges on the firing pin, so it would punch deeper into the casing, but I'm really not sure if it's something I want to try quite yet.

    This doesn't have an accu-trigger on it. So that's ruled out.
    When you say 'disassembled the bolt' did you actually take the 2 parts apart and clean inside the 'back half' ? That's where I've found debris and dried up grease. That stuff might have been there a long time. Cleaning that and lubing with PTFE ONLY makes firing pin hit solid.
    Just my guess, but I've found junk there in several guns. Here's a link to 'Complete' disassembly of the bolt.
    http s://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UApCBM6_dck

  13. #13
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    thanks for quoting him fasteddie i either missed it or it was edited. Either way, My point is mute.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  14. #14
    New Member Gearchecker's Avatar
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    I disassembled the entire bolt, front half (firing pin side), and the back half (Bolt handle side). I'm pretty sure I got everything cleaned up completely, but I'll give it another go. It can't hurt to clean it again, that's for sure.
    After that's all done I'll post another response to what's happening. Thanks for all of the help and advice, it's truly appreciated.

    Regards,
    Gregory
    If I don't want a new gun, call the undertaker!

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    Have you solved this problem yet?

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