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Thread: Savage 12 BVSS 22-250 to 6mm BR build

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  1. #1
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    Savage 12 BVSS 22-250 to 6mm BR build

    My first thought was lets build a heavily modified Savage 12BSS into a 600 yard gun. To do I would swap barrels from a .22-250 to a 6BR. So the web search for parts, advise and reloading info began. This started in January as I am laid up due to a walking deficit. I think the one person that I found offered the best advise was Eric Cortine in one of his videos. He basically said its a copy game read , interview and listen more than talk on what others are doing. Ive know this for years as I started shooting very young as I would copy my cousin and he would copy me when we shot. Only downfall was we had no money so we basically copied shooting techniques only.

    That brings me here and my plans for the 12BVSS:

    1) Stock, take that chunk of wood under the action and barrel and add a cheek riser. To me cheek weld is top priority when looking down that scope. People worry about reticle cant, I worry about HEAD cant. No shooter ever can drill one hole unless their eye sight is always in the same place when looking down the scope. Products Manufacturers I am considering is Atlasworx and
    Stock Positioning Systems
    2) Trigger, is a touchy subject. No pun intended. I used to practice trigger pull in my early twenties. Everyone is different. Some like Cortina is what I call a push button trigger man. From his videos he seems to push the trigger with the tip of the finger. Where as common shooter like hunters tend to wrap and actually pull. The difference is push button requires a very light trigger and pull type require a heavy trigger. I am considering brands such as Timney and Jard as they are available. But I may wait and just lighten up the accutrigger and then await for Trigger Tech's Savage release this year.
    3) Bolt mods, are far and few from what I see on the net. But clearly Pacific Tool and Gauge out of Oklahoma has my attention.
    4) Followers, as mine is not a single shot I need to change the bullet feed orientation. For That I already purchased a Score High Bench rest Follower from Midway USA for $15.00. Install was easy except I don't like the spring on the factory follower. So I used the Handyman's Secret weapon Gorilla Glue Duct Tape and taped over the bottom of the magazine box to hold it in place while the action and barrel are separated from the stock. Follower worked great and will be a plus not only on the Field Bench when shooting, It works great in the Gun Room for checking head space and bullet seating. No more fumbling.
    5) Bolt Lug and Barrel Nut, Pre Fit Barrels are a mystery to me because I am old and old fashioned. But many years of engineering help me relax a tad as modern machining tools are so accurate you can ask for a 32 microinch finish from across the globe and that is what you'll receive and if it 10,000 of them they will have a 85% confidence level induced they will all be the same. Thus I will go to
    Pacific Tool and Gauge out of Oklahoma and purchase their precise lapped lug and barrel nut.
    6) Barrel, oh my where do you go? Well I believe I just might buy a Shilen and a Criterion. Both with a 4 groove. One an 8 twist and one with a 7.5. all based on Don Millers formula.
    As the Criterion has a faster availability it will be installed first.

    7) New Reloading Dies and other Stuff, so much is changing is changing in the reloading die world. Thus I needs a week worth of internet research and other info to decide. For barrel break in I believe Ill do it with some sierra matchkings and believe it or not winchester brass. For zeroing I'll dig deep into my pockets and find look for factory loaded Berger Bullets, with Lapua brass in 6BR now. These are my off the cuff thoughts for now.

    8) Rings and Glass, I have always been a Sightron Fan. Glass is very very clear. They are rugged and track well. Even my older S1 hunting scopes met the requirement of Sqaure'd line target test. Sorry Bryan Litz we we using your "Tall Target" idea a few decades before you were born. But all others go hear and Mr Litz has a great explanation.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12Wf...adeAssociation.

    9) Schedule of Completion and readiness for serious work, I am planning on next year for actual bench work. Mods will take a year, mostly because every corner I take, I read or see something better, something that makes more sense, or someone else says hey I did this. Again "Copying" is an important factor. Hearing what others have done on here may change my direction. Now if I were 17-55 years old again I am sure I would rush, if it failed I'd do it again. But as I mature I know this could be my last of anything. So its important I complete this as with the very best of my skills and products.

    10) It's already has begun; as mentioned I did install a single shot follower, I have also done a preliminary "on the stock" layout of the cheek riser. Which BTW has been chaged three times sinch I took this photo of the original layout a couple days back.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Final) Heres a final comment to this old man's long winded introduction. I found this on the net from the 6mmBR site. It was found a few days after I decided to proceed with this endeavor. None-the-less it is a very good outlay of what I am trying to accomplish. It's from the 6mmBR website and its entitled 6BR Savage Pac-Nor "Silk Purse"
    https://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek036.html

    Best regards,

    Larry

  2. #2
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    Okay Okay...here is what I mean about changing my mind and heading off in a different direction. I thought I would investigate Rifle Basix triggers. Their install and how hard it is to adjust pull peaked my interest. As there is nothing wrong with Rifle Basix triggers! So I pulled up their install video on Youtube.

    To the right of the video is that line of other videos supposedly similar to the one you're watching. There I saw one entitled "Savage Accutrigger Modification 2Lb to 12oz for ~$2" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ba3sWKdl8lU&ab_channel=TGCorbinski.

    Its interesting and so I'll do it in the next few weeks to see how legit it is. Since my fingers work better than my legs I ordered A C-582 spring (3/16 OD x 1 3/8 long x .016 diameter) and 10-24 x 3/4 machine screw from Amazon.

    Ill do the mod after Amazons Thursday delivery. Whether I keep it or not who knows. From an engineering standpoint this mod makes a point. lets see How good the Amazon spring is! Heck I might even put the whole 12BVSS back together and shoot it in the 22-250 mode. I can redraw the stock cutout again!

    Ladies and Men I just love this stuff!

    Larry


  3. #3
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Welcome aboard. Sounds like your willing to work at it !! Some advice right off the bat.....Don't try and fix
    what is not broke. Something wrong with your existing "floating" bolt head that you feel you need a PTG ??
    His is no better then stock. Truth be told, your stock Lug and nut are just fine. If you feel the need though,
    get the Lug from Northland Shooter Supply or Fred Moreo on this site. You stock nut does not need replaced
    unless you mess it up on removal, and that does happen sometimes. You mentioned Criterion and Shillen.
    I personally would prefer a Hart for the 6BR if a button barrel......Good luck and keep posting up your effort.
    It just not going down the rabbit hole, it's going down many......
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

  4. #4
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    I second the advice Fuj gave you. I don't compete and have only been shooting 'premium' stuff for a couple of years now. About 6yrs ago I got dragged into the rabbit hole by my Axis of all things. It shot .223 better than I could drive it. I started to get better and wanted to see more of these little holes in the X ring. :)

    I listen to Fuj and a few others on this site when they offer advice. I won't try to list them or I'll forget one so I apologize to them ahead of time :) They are a true wealth of information.

    I converted my BVSS to 6BR. I have a Shilen barrel and nut from NSS. Currently it has a Burris XTR scope on it. Not the ideal, but, it was on sale and within my budget :) My next barrel (to be ordered this year) will be a better one. I am hoping the wait time for a cut rifle barrel will fit my needs.

    If you can find Lapua brass, get enough to last you a while. I only have a box left so I bought some Peterson brass to try out. So far it seems OK. I am not good enough to tell the difference between the two.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I second the advice Fuj gave you. I don't compete and have only been shooting 'premium' stuff for a couple of years now. About 6yrs ago I got dragged into the rabbit hole by my Axis of all things. It shot .223 better than I could drive it. I started to get better and wanted to see more of these little holes in the X ring. :)

    I listen to Fuj and a few others on this site when they offer advice. I won't try to list them or I'll forget one so I apologize to them ahead of time :) They are a true wealth of information.

    I converted my BVSS to 6BR. I have a Shilen barrel and nut from NSS. Currently it has a Burris XTR scope on it. Not the ideal, but, it was on sale and within my budget :) My next barrel (to be ordered this year) will be a better one. I am hoping the wait time for a cut rifle barrel will fit my needs.

    If you can find Lapua brass, get enough to last you a while. I only have a box left so I bought some Peterson brass to try out. So far it seems OK. I am not good enough to tell the difference between the two.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fuj' View Post
    ...Something wrong with your existing "floating" bolt head that you feel you need a PTG ??
    His is no better then stock. Truth be told, your stock Lug and nut are just fine. You mentioned Criterion and Shillen.
    I personally would prefer a Hart for the 6BR if a button barrel......Good luck and keep posting up your effort.
    It just not going down the rabbit hole, it's going down many......

    Fuji thanks for the suggestions and the welcome! It means alot.

    Understand I am building a shooter as concise and repeatable as possible. I also want a "pretty" gun as I doubt I'll build anymore. (Pretty will be easier for my wife to sell it when I pass away! Hahah) I have built some guns in the past that proved to be concise and repeatable. But they were far from pretty. In fact I thought if this continues I might as well build a rail gun,, Hahah.

    As for the bolt. I have researched and PTG bolt mods are pretty for the price. From what I have read and watched through many websites they indeed to appear to remove the Savage bolt slop. Bolt slop doesn't seem important but it is. When your eyes are aligned to the cross hairs and your cheek is welded, a smooth working bolt helps remove a variable of jerking your head around. If you want it super smooth then get a presion action bolt combo, but hey thats not the point, as its doubtful this build will ever compete at the top levels. Yes, I know when the bolt lugs arent engaged it doesn't matter, but hey why not make operation a tad smoother. So I get two bangs, first it will be pretty and second it "could " reduce some of the Savage Bolt slop.

    I have had a message into Hart about their 6BR Savage Pre fit barrels and no response yet. Shilen and Criterion are around $120 less than Harts online prices. Northland can get me both along with lugs and nuts. Sort of a one stop shop.

    As for lugs and nuts. I have found its easier to control variables up front. Just like I clean allot, "I can control cleaning, I cannot control fowling". Especially when working up loads!!!

    As for the lapped lug's exact thickness I feel it will indeed reduce a another variable when I troubleshoot. You see it's not always the load variables, barrel issues, sometimes its other things that no one considers. So I will do my best up front to perhaps eliminate a few I can control when I assemble parts.

    As for barrel nuts, I am a mechanical engineer among other degrees. Torquing and poor tightening moves the lands. Thus to ensure another precise torque during reassembly you must chase the female threads on the receiver and add a clean cut nut to ensure proper torque. Torquing is the prefered method of tightening always. However, if I were to reuse the nut and not chase the threads, I would use BLUE loctite, snug it down let it rest for 24 hours before any movement. Nice thing about Blue Loctite is it remains flexible and will hold after many recoils. I know this as I have spoken to factory reps and development I have run teams at Locktite, plus I have run several confirmation test on a calibrated vibration table when working with Government Contracts.

    Best regards,

    Larry

  6. #6
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    ^ OK ^

  7. #7
    Team Savage pdog06's Avatar
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    Love it! Can’t wait to see it all finished

  8. #8
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdog06 View Post
    Love it! Can’t wait to see it all finished

    Yep, Brings back a lot of memories. He is doing a great job!!
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  9. #9
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    Nice work! When it comes to wood, I just make sawdust. LOL.

    Here's imgBB tip, for any image you want to use, open the image, hover over "BBCode", select copy, paste that link where you want your pic to go and there won't be visible tags before and after your pic.


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilC View Post
    Nice work! When it comes to wood, I just make sawdust. LOL.

    Here's imgBB tip, for any image you want to use, open the image, hover over "BBCode", select copy, paste that link where you want your pic to go and there won't be visible tags before and after your pic.


    Ill be darn!!! It worked! Hahahah

  11. #11
    Team Savage pdog06's Avatar
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    No going back now…lol

  12. #12
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    You have lots of new tricks LDSILLS.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  13. #13
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    Nice work. I might be doing the same kind of work to one of my other stocks once I get new rings for it.

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