Reply With QuoteCould the bottom of the cocking slot be relieved a couple thou just to be sure it doesn't bottom out?
I played with this in the past, but just wasn’t completely satisfied. I’m still using the same FP striker I machined from S7 Tool Steel. I just just Cold Blued it. The first time around I experimented with a few ISMI Flat Wire, recoil springs designed for a Glock pistol. They worked, but weren’t sized as well as they could be. I tried them full length, and cut. Ultimately I went back to my clipped & modified stock spring and continued searching. I finally came across an ISMI spring I thought would work better. It’s sized correctly for a 1/4” bore item & turned out everything else was optimum as well. It’s a 22lb. spring made from Chrome-Silicon & still a Flat Wire. Chrome-Silicon outperforms standard music wire for compression springs as one of its characteristics is delivering more energy for the same dimensions. In addition, it does not collapse set at the same rate as standard spring wire & lasts much longer. In rudimentary terms: it just has more Springy-ness!
Here it’s at full length. 30 coils.
It has plenty of space per the OD.
Installed on my S7 firing pin. The proper ID for 1/4” pin, so the coils don’t “snake” badly causing binding on the inside of the Bolt sleeve.
The firing pin set at optimum protrusion. It’s actually at .033”. Now, I’m simply showing something I’ve done. I’m not telling anyone to go get a new spring. In fact, there is no reason unless & until all the other mods are done first. This venture is so I have 100% reliable primer ignition while reducing bolt lift. So I already have everything else making this possible. A longer bolt handle & knob, Lift Kit, all rough surfaces removed/polished for firing pin travel. And I’ve increased Firing Pin travel or “Fall” to the maximum without it hurting bolt lift. There is almost nothing, in terms of space, between the Cocking Pin & front edge of the Bolt Sleeve when in “fired” position. The pin is not hitting the edge, which could be bad, but is maybe a couple Thous away from the surface. Adjusting the Cocking Piece so there is .080” between the CockingPin & the edge would lower bolt lift even more. However, I don’t want to lose the FP travel and am quite happy with the bolt lift like this.
Could the bottom of the cocking slot be relieved a couple thou just to be sure it doesn't bottom out?
You mean on a factory Firing Pin? Because the Cocking Piece needs to be threaded on so far? Sure, it could be. But I think there’s enough as it is. Actually, I remember on my old old factory FP I did this and had to thread a bit more, and grind the base so the Cocking Pin fit.Originally Posted by Rocketvapor
Actually, I was thinking about it. I believe this style of spring, Chrome-Silicone/Flat-Wire, is the answer for the problems with the 2019+ 110’s & Axis light primer strike problems. The Flat Wire compression size ring has many more coils within the same length as the 2-spring factory setup. Only thing is finding a way to retain the Cocking Pin.
If the firing pin protrusion is greater than the distance it takes to drive the cup into the anvil you will not need extra space to keep the pin from bottoming out. In other words, if the firing pin strikes a primer it will not go to full protrusion, leaving the cocking piece pin off the bottom of the ramp/pocket.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I checked mine and it doesn't bottom out, on the sleeve or slot/ramp(for dry fire).
To measure clearance to bottom of notch ;
Lightly start BAS, uncock, measure bolt protrusion.
Take out pin and shorten pin protrusion 1/4 turn put the BAS back on a little, and measure bolt protrusion.
Repeat until you don't get 0.009" per 1/4 turn.
Learning a little about this Savage as I go.
I found that the left hand .223 bolt heads (2 examples) measure different than the right hand bolt heads (3 examples). ?????
Pin protrusion is obviously different between the left and right heads (face depth).
Cases fired with bolt assembled with one of my left hand bolt heads come out about 0.008 longer than cases fired with a right hand bolt.
New, unfired Nosler/Dogtown brass is short to begin with. Going with the right hand bolt heads (no ejectors).
Dave,
I like the idea of the "no squiggle" spring. I see several places have the flat wound 22 and 24 lb Glock ISMI springs.
Which one did you use?
(Glock model?)
Worth the effort?
Here's mine with factory springs.
Shimmed instead of shaving BAS.
I used 7/32 ceramic balls and 38/357 case heads.
Added internal length is 0.094"/0.095"
Not the Glock ISMI springs. It’s actually the 22lb for a 1911 Commander with .250” recoil rod.
Thanks,
Think I'll get a couple to play with.
There goes another month of my COLA :)
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