Greetings Everyone,
I just joined the forum and got my first Savage rifle, its a 110 Precision chambered in .308 Winchester. The rifle came with a nice muzzle break.
I'm looking for a suppressor that I can use with my 110 precision rifle. I'm interested in the Surefire 762 SOCOM, although I'm not sure if this can be attached to the muzzle. Since the muzzle break is too large.
The only thing I'm thinking of is removing the muzzle break (haven't figured that one yet, since its tightly attached, without scratching the barrel) and attach the suppressor using the threads. Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks!
I answered your other thread. So you didn’t need to make 2. Just for future reference pard.
But I neglected to answer about removing the factory Brake. I believe on that style of brake, there are Flats on the sides for an open Box wrench. A large one! Don’t know exactly, but it’s probably like 1-1/4” wrench maybe? Anyway, just measure the diameter of the flats. You have a Vernier Calipers? Once you know what to look for, you should see the Flats immediately. Either on the sides or top & bottom.
OSS suppressors have been working well for me on 30 cal and my 6.5 Savage Stealth for some time now. I like the fact that I can shoot with just ear plugs and not get my chubby cheeks pinched while getting my cheekweld with muffs. Whatta Hobby!
Semper Fi
Sgt USMC 66-72
Thank you Dave, I might have to put something on the part touching the wrench once I remove the muzzle break, so that I won't scratch it badly.
My advice is don’t worry about scratches. They will happen here & there with use. Nothing wrong with having a clean rifle free from blemishes, but they will happen regardless. And I encourage everyone not to conflate clean & blemish free and clean of fouling, dirt, etc. Always keep weapons clean. I’m simply speaking of scratches, dings, finish wear & such over time.Originally Posted by 17Charlie
That said, there’s nothing wrong with using tape or something on the brake to protect it. I would just be cautious of falling into the crowd fixated with the most minor of finish details. They are a strange group indeed. Lol! I think of the little imperfections my firearms pick up through use to be the weapons Character. Always remember, it’s a tool.
Be aware that thread locking have have been applied so you may find the need to heat the muzzle brake during the removal process.
I have a 24-inch barrel with a threaded tip on one of my .308 10 FP LE models.
I tried one of my son's 9-nch 30 caliber suppressors on it and it changed the harmonics of the barrel/suppressor versus the barrel alone some.
It also increased the muzzle velocity by 18 fps with the same load since the suppressor still does accelerate the bullet slightly while is it bleeding off pressure.
(By comparison, trying the same suppressor on my 6.5mm CM with a threaded tip changed the muzzle velocity by 15-16 fps. The .264 bullet bleeds off slightly more pressure in the .30 caliber suppressor.)
Expect that there will be some slight difference in the point of impact with your .308 so expect to adjust your scope.
Happily it didn't change the overall groups size by much.
I use a Silencerco Omega on my 110 .308. I have a 20 inch barrel. Tames both sound AND recoil. It does change the poi slightly, so I wrote down the change in my log so that I know beforehand when I shoot, what to adjust for suppressed or unsuppressed. I also use the direct thread method. My suppressor has an option for a muzzle brake, and qd, but adds weight and length. Direct thread is the way to go for me. I have a thread protector that I have on the rifle when suppressor is not on. I use the same suppressor on my 110 .300wm. My 110 .270 does not have a threaded barrel. Wish it did.
I was fortunate to have stumbled on a GSL Multi-Cal suppressor NIB for $490 so I jumped on it. It came with screw on as well as bayonet adapters which made the set an amazing deal plus the ATF $200.
Not bad! If they didn't cost so much I'd have one (or two) as well.
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