Completely eliminated all Bolt Lift effort!

[Dave Hoback]

I figured it out! (Archimedes was Right!) Just a matter of making a 3X Long Titanium Bolt Knob, along with all the other Bolt mods I’ve done, and done! Why, it has so much rotational torque now, it might sheer the lugs off, if I’m not careful! And ya know… it’s hardly even noticeable, LOL!

Heck! I might start marketing these suckers. Whoa, Whoa… sss-low down gentlemen! I’m but one man.



Ok, I hope everyone realizes this to be a joke. I’m making another Ti Bolt Knob & was test fitting the threads. I didn’t cut & machine the contour yet. (Obviously) Just thought it would be a nice Christmas chuckle for some; maybe a pick up for some with Holiday Blues.

[Turkeytider]

LOL! Dave I was about to say, " That`s the ugliest bolt I`ve ever seen! " .

[big honkin jeep]

LOL
Looks like that darn mechanic forgot his 1/2" ratchet under the bolt assembly screw.

[Rocketvapor]

Maybe a ratchet bolt handle would be a good idea

But, since you broached the topic of bolt lift (again) I have a question or two.
I know you like the old style pin, single point bolt lift modification, I notice a thin shim between the BAS and Handle.
It appears to be about 0.100" or so. It looks like it has a split like a lock washer (could be a reflection).
Was this to fit tight in the reduced diameter of the BAS near the flange?

I find that the thrust bearing Bolt Lift Kit (I purchased from both vendors to avoid a Good Guy/Bad Guy discussion) changes the spring tension on the "New" style pins.
With the single spring variety the bearing stack is about 0.177" thick, the BAS washer is about 0.200", reducing the effective spring length by 0.023". Thinning the BAS washer could bring the tension back up. Maybe the wrong washer shipped?
_______________________________
With the Dual Spring Firing Pin the Key Ring Washer (about 0.055" thick) is tossed aside, the bearing stack is the same 0.177" and the BAS washer also 0.200".
This result in removal of 0.055", adding 0.177" inside, net thickness about 0.122", and adding 0.200" outside. To me, it seems this is reducing spring tension by a lot (0.078").
My home made thin 50 cent spacer has to be held centered as I tighten the BAS. It rides in the reduced diameter section.

Some have said that the spring tension with the new style pin is on the weak side to begin with, kicking it up maybe 0.010" would help. An internal shim (inside the BAS) about 0.070" - 0.080" would allow using the 0.200" BAS shim and ride centered on the BAS threads without reducing spring tension.

[ArcherAnthony]

lol nice Modification

[Dave Hoback]

Maybe a ratchet bolt handle would be a good idea

But, since you broached the topic of bolt lift (again) I have a question or two.
I know you like the old style pin, single point bolt lift modification, I notice a thin shim between the BAS and Handle.
It appears to be about 0.100" or so. It looks like it has a split like a lock washer (could be a reflection).
Was this to fit tight in the reduced diameter of the BAS near the flange?

I find that the thrust bearing Bolt Lift Kit (I purchased from both vendors to avoid a Good Guy/Bad Guy discussion) changes the spring tension on the "New" style pins.
With the single spring variety the bearing stack is about 0.177" thick, the BAS washer is about 0.200", reducing the effective spring length by 0.023". Thinning the BAS washer could bring the tension back up. Maybe the wrong washer shipped?
_______________________________
With the Dual Spring Firing Pin the Key Ring Washer (about 0.055" thick) is tossed aside, the bearing stack is the same 0.177" and the BAS washer also 0.200".
This result in removal of 0.055", adding 0.177" inside, net thickness about 0.122", and adding 0.200" outside. To me, it seems this is reducing spring tension by a lot (0.078").
My home made thin 50 cent spacer has to be held centered as I tighten the BAS. It rides in the reduced diameter section.

Some have said that the spring tension with the new style pin is on the weak side to begin with, kicking it up maybe 0.010" would help. An internal shim (inside the BAS) about 0.070" - 0.080" would allow using the 0.200" BAS shim and ride centered on the BAS threads without reducing spring tension.

Rocket, yes, that is a Titanium washer I machined, and I understand what you mean about it moving in the undervlcut section of the BAS. Mine does the same & also needs held center while tightening. I used to have my stock BAS that I shortened & drilled for a Tungsten rod as the surface for the bearing ball. Illustrated in this thread: https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...Carbide-(Pics)
But last year I got the Titanium BAS (Lift Kit) from Lumley. The Lumley kit is like the one from PTG. It uses a pointed, adjustable set screw in the BAS and the SS Lift plate with the surface hole for the point. (Picture below). As you pointed out I prefer the bearing ball style, and more over, I prefer the ones I make: A Titanium Lift plate with a 5mm Si3N4 bearing ball pressed in the center. (Like the above thread) So I swapped the lift plate for the kind I make & used an end mill to machine the pointed set screw flat, then polished the surface. I made the spacer washer because I already had the Titanium plate for it & I can adjust the preload via the set screw. The only thing I’d rather is if I could get a Tungsten set screw with flat surface, but none doing. I may drill the set set screw & press in a piece of the Tungsten rod just as I was doing in the BAS’.




Lumley Kit:


EDIT: Hey Rocketvapor, if you give me the shim’s dimensions you believe will work, I’ll gladly machine a Titanium shim to fit the location you’re speaking of, and mail it your way.

[Rocketvapor]

Dave, Merry Christmas.
Just saw your edit.
It might be after the first to get her to the range.
I want to test the stack I presently have. Haven't measured spring tension yet but 177 -55 would give the same as stock spring tension with a 122 external shim.
BUT, 122 wouldn't catch a thread on the BAS.
My external 112 shim (two quarters) would be an increase in 10 thou in spring tension but floats on the reduced diameter of the BAS.
Probably not a bad thing for the reported weak new style pin/springs.

In order to catch the BAS thread diameter and be self centering the external shim needs to be at least 140.
That's why the thought of an internal shim. The external shim can easily be worked down in thickness staying over 140 (catches at least one thread of the BAS).
I think an internal shim about 0.040"- 0.070" and sanding down the external shim to less than the 0.200" would allow a good range for playing with spring tension.
I don't know the spring rate and if this would be enough, not enough or too much to do anything meaningful to spring tension.
Think I will see how the rifle performs with the current stack.

What do others do with the thrust bearing mod for the new type of dual spring one piece indicating pin?

I have one old style bolt and will consider the Hard Ball, 357, carbide mod.
Have you considered carbide tipped micrometer anvils counter bored into the BAS?

Anyway, thanks, and Merry Christmas.
RV