I have a 110 that is very hard to lift the bolt handle after firing. This is not an ammo issue. Is the solution a bigger, longer, bolt handle? I have heard that there is a modification for the bolt to cure this.
I have a 110 that is very hard to lift the bolt handle after firing. This is not an ammo issue. Is the solution a bigger, longer, bolt handle? I have heard that there is a modification for the bolt to cure this.
There is a host of things which can be done. Yes, an Aftermarket bolt handle will help tremendously. Also a Bolt lift kit will help. And polishing various parts can as well. The inside edges of the bolt where the Cocking Piece pin is riding against. Lastly, what firing pin is yours using? If it has the adjustable firing pin, the Spring can be modified to lower the tension & preload. As it is greatly over-sprung from the factory.
My 110 never has been that bad, but even a larger bolt knob can help. Anything to increase leverage.
Describe how hard the bolt lift is? Does it feel the same as the bolt lift with no round in it at all and the trigger tripped?
It should feel the same. If not then maybe a headspace issue? How did you determine it wasn’t an ammo issue?
Ditto!Originally Posted by pdog06
I have a Sav 11 that I can lift the bolt with one finger but for the life of me I can't remember what or how I did it. I know it had something to due with the cocking ramp to the pin's retention, the 38-357 case /w ball bearing.... Recently installed the thrust bearing stuff in it....no difference.
It's an old age thing!!!
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I keep my hand close to the receiver and lift the bolt with the side of my index finger near the knuckle, I find a longer or heavier bolt handle only adds weight to the extraction. IIRC my smith added a lift kit but also shortened the bolt body by the thickness of the kit washer dealie bobber.
It’s been awhile I may not be remembering correctly.
It’s not the Bolt Body(sleeve) that needs shortened; if anything, the bolt sleeve would need to be longer. When adding a Lift Kit, it needs either the spacer between the Bolt Handle & BAS, or the BAS needs shortened the width of the Lift Kit installed.
Triple that.
And if you have the newer style BAS with cocking indicator:
https://deshind.com/product/savage-b...ring-pin-2019/
and actually Desh has lift kits for both styles.
I got the Lumley kit but only for Titanium BAS. As I said, the single bearing ball style is the best performing option. So I modified mine.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I bought a used Savage 7mm mag years ago, and had the same problem.
Super hard bolt lift.
Apparently somebody had taken apart the firing pin assembly and it was assembled improperly and or had the wrong spring or some other wrong part for the bolt body.
I worked on it a good bit and eventually got it to where the bolt would cycle better, but it was never 100% like my other Savages.
That just reminded me of something else. You didn’t mention what era your Savage is, newer or older, but in some older 110’s the rear Baffle used a set screw holding in the bearing ball. As shown in the picture below. (Curtesy of Desh) If that screw it too tight, it can hinder the Baffle spinning on the Bolt sleeve, which further increases Bolt Lift quite a bit. If it is too tight, loosening just slightly should help.
Centershot, are ya out there?
I am. Just trying to digest all of the suggestions. Thanks for the tips. I have to take my bolt apart and see what I have.
My rifle was made in 2004.
My new Model 12 bolt does not have a cocking indicator that protrudes through the BAS. Does that mean it has the older style firing pin assembly? This rifle has a DOM (date of manufacture?) of 10/16/23.
It you do the .38 Special and ball bearing thing, do you need to shorten something? Like the shroud or firing pin spring?
It’s just like pdog said. Either a spacer or shorten the BAS. I’ve done both. I shortened my stock BAS, but now I use the Lumley Titanium BAS and I machined my own Titanium spacer.
If you want you can send me your BAS to machine shorter. I do it for free.
Went to the hardware store and bought ball bearings. One "floats" in the primer packet, but still sticks out of the pocket, and the other one does not bottom out. Which one should I use?
Correct. All the higher end rifles use the adjustable style firing pin assembly. Yours is the older style pin assembly, yes
Thanks Dave. I appreciate you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Do you have to? No but you’re basically not gonna gain much if at all. You change the bearing surface but add more tension.
Most will say to shorten the BAS(bolt assembly screw) by the total thickness of the bolt lift kit. I think Desh will shorten it if you send him the BAS and a measurement.
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