Bought an Ashbury chassis 308 savage.....accuracy issues....

[HaveBlue83]

Hey all,

I recently picked up a like new 308 24" fluted savage in the Ashbury precision chassis. I added an XLR stock and I started with a Nikon m tactical 3-12 but decided to get nice glass and got a Zeiss conquest 4-16, on vortex PRO rings. It's all setup nicely but the groups are not so great. I have another similar savage in 6.5, jb skim bedded into a choate with a 3-12 m tactical on it and it does 1/2" at 100 all day. 3/4" is a bad day for this been out to 1035yds many times with ease.

The Ashbury model has a different receiver style, and I read they are blueprinted for Ashbury. That chassis is no longer offered, and I am not sure the adjusting procedure is for the screws.

I worked up 168gr ELDM and some 150gr fmj loads from what I have....

42.5gr varget
45gr BLC2.

COAL is 2.790, about .020-.025 off jam.

I tried a bunch but I'm not seeing better than .750". Rounds aren't tight. They are like a bad group with the 6.5. I feel good shooting it but the groups are NOT what I wanna see for long range chassis rifle money and precision use. I'm considering pulling my parts off and offloading it at the gun show next week, but I also wonder.....did I get someone else's meh barrel headache? I don't wanna buy 175/180/190 and do all that. So far I'm seeing either a picky barrel or a not that great barrel. For $1100+ base I thought it would offer more accuracy than a Tupperware savage does. Is it just me, can I not shoot 308?

I'm looking for advice.

[isacpotatoes]

There is a procedure for torquing down the savage action screws. I can look on the website and get back to you, but if the three screws, only two torque the action if I remember correctly, the other is bottom metal related??

You don’t need the tang/rear of action to be smashed down onto the stock/chassis. I’ll get back once I confirm some info.

-Isaac


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[HaveBlue83]

There is a procedure for torquing down the savage action screws. I can look on the website and get back to you, but if the three screws, only two torque the action if I remember correctly, the other is bottom metal related??

You don’t need the tang/rear of action to be smashed down onto the stock/chassis. I’ll get back once I confirm some info.

-Isaac


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Yes I did that whole procedure with the bed job at the range with my TQ wrench on the 6.5 until the groups were tight again, but I wasn't sure with this chassis what I was to do.......first chassis rifle for me.

[isacpotatoes]

This doesn’t distinguish chassis specs, but it’s aluminum just like the accustocks. So maybe try the 40 inch pounds on those action screws, and a little less on the tang portion so it doesn’t ride the chassis?

I remember being told not to go crazy with that 3rd screw.




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[HaveBlue83]

Sounds good! Yep I just found the 2 and I did the snug, tap it into position, then 20/25/30 on both. There is no rear tang screw on this that I can see, oddly enough. . I'll go up to 40 and tune it from. There. The front was very tight and the middle one wasn't as much so maybe it was wonky.

I will shoot more and see what happens. Thx sir!

[charlie b]

My .308 model 12 was, and still is, picky about load and conditions. It likes to be very clean and warm, but, not hot. The 'hold' on the rifle needs to be very consistent. From a bipod I learned it had to be 'leaned into' the bipod a lot. Mine does not like 168gn bullets. Does well with 175SMK's and 155Bergers. The Bergers need to be jam fit in the lands, the SMK needs a small jump.

[HaveBlue83]

My .308 model 12 was, and still is, picky about load and conditions. It likes to be very clean and warm, but, not hot. The 'hold' on the rifle needs to be very consistent. From a bipod I learned it had to be 'leaned into' the bipod a lot. Mine does not like 168gn bullets. Does well with 175SMK's and 155Bergers. The Bergers need to be jam fit in the lands, the SMK needs a small jump.

If this one persists in that manner, I will call savage or sell it. I have had some poor shooters and they don't last long in my collection. After a few hundred rnds of trying, they get the boot! Luckily my 6.5 has shot amazing since day 1.

I have some factory ammo here, and I have handloads loaded up. I'll range report after.

[Dave Hoback]

Playing with Action screw torque is for stocks which exhibit creep; that is, hardwood, Laminate & polymer. Aluminum Chassis no not creep. However, Aluminun chassis sometimes have material flashing where the bedding was machined: take a file against the edges to verify no burrs are present. And relieve material under the tang if it is making contact. Torque screws to 50-65in.lbs. From there it’s time to continue working on your reloads. Lastly, you can not compare two rifles in the same cartridge, let alone completely different calibers/cartridges/rifles.