I am betting they will not be able to keep sears in in stock
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I told Noemi that very thing. I have a bad feeling of “Bogarters” trying to buy them out and sit on them for a rainy day. Just like guys were doing with primers, powder, brass, bullets. Makes me sick of the low-life, scum bags who make that a habit. Then turn around & sell them in a shortage for 3, 4, 5 times what they bought them for!
That is a typo! I’ll get that fixed. Thank you for pointing that out.Originally Posted by GrenGuy
Good deal! Pretty cool, right? Like a week ago these were untouchable! And now you have one in hand. I haven’t put mine in yet. Of course I still need to personalize it. The Sear has some pretty bad burrs I need to burn off. And want to check if it needs my Titanium shims. Also, I’m looking at maybe doing a new style of Overtravel Stop. Threading the hole that captures the the Blade spring. It can be threaded for an M4-.70 set screw without disrupting anything. I started on it today & that case hardening is a PITB! I got fairly dar down but broke the tap (inexpensive taps), and had to drill it out with Tungsten bit. Have another M4 tap, so… again tomorrow. I’m thinking to tap it about 3/4 the way through, so the portion that holds the blade spring is unaffected.
Ah well… you know I can’t leave anything be. LOL!
I agree with the burrs on edges. Shouldn't take much to clean up though.
Gonna keep the regular trigger for the March match. I should have the Target trigger ready for her to try after that.
I thought as much. Folks will need that bar if they want a safety.
I took the hint! Ordered both tonight but the spring is Out of Stock. How important is the sear spring?
Don't need this in a hurry because of currently working on a new to me 6 ARC Switchback so the Model 11 which I am presently shooting will be dropped and when ready I will build my Model 10 stagger feed blind magazine with a new faster twist 223 barrel.
The Trigger & Sear are the more important of the three. I haven’t measured the Target Sear spring compared to my factory Accutrigger Sear spring, but can’t see the difference with the naked eye.
Edit: I measured last night, the new Sear spring compared to one I purchased a few years ago. They are identical in wire diameter, (.035”), loop size & angle of slightly over 90 degrees. I figured then, Savage must have changed all to using just these at some point. A little research & yes, that’s exactly it. The Factory part number 1030894 is the Sear spring used in the Standard Accutrigger with TBR & the Target Accutrigger.
Other than the color (ugh) is the blade the same?
thinking about stripping the orange from the red blade and coloring it blue to match the stock :)
No difference. It’s just painted. The regular Accutrigger is not. As a matter of fact, the trigger & sear are only different in the escape angle machined on the surfaces & the dimple on the side of the Sear’s Bolt Release lever.
Orange-B-Gone
First layer.
Was gonna play with trigger but the wife said NO.
Don't touch before the match. She's happy the way it is.
What the OP failed to mention was his intended use of his rifle after a trigger change. By this I mean , PRS match's , some form of bench rest, informal paper punching or steel banging , hunting , ect.
What I have found is that if I owned only one rifle that the trigger tuning or replacement would be a simple task. Add one more rifle and the task is still a simple "sameie sameie" Take both of these weapons to the range and there is no problem. BUT , like most of us there might be a true BR rifle with it's 2 oz trigger plus a couple of AR's and even with "TriggerTech" triggers , they break at about 1.5 Lbs.
So , OP a few more details might be helpful ?
Shooter, this is actually an old thread. It was only brought back up & responded to because GunShack started stocking the Savage Target Accutriggers & Sears, after I contacted them asking if they’d order the parts for me. Read post #14, which is Lance from GunShack resurrecting the thread to tell of this. He & Noemi both post on under that same handle. Because us regular folk could not get these parts (especially the Sears), it’s a big deal.
I’m sure the OP figured something out from October of last year.
Oly Bat Dip. Just 4 days. My trigger parts arrived today!
Great job Gun Shack!!!
Yeah man, GunShack don’t play around with shipping! I. Had my parts in like 3 days! Makes you wonder when ordering from some of these other retailers, spending $10, $15… sometimes $20+ on shipping, and then the part(s) taking a week or longer. As someone who sips things often and knows the fees fairly well, many places are making a killing overcharging for shipping.
Congrats on getting a Target Trigger KMW. Sounds like you’re as elated as I am.Glad for you guys as for myself.
Major Kudos and big thanks to Dave Hoback for the conversation with Naomi at Gun Shack. Kudos to Gun Shack for offering Red Blade Target Triggers and 60z sear.
Mine should be here any day for my 12BVSS 22-250 to 6mm-BR build.
For all you that have installed yours do you have any issues with timing?
Thanks,
Larry
As the O P, My intent was to have a chasis that I could put different barrels on to shoot paper, maybe a few prairie dogs.I put on the 110 I bought, a Boyds thumb hole stock, single shot adapter, extended bot handle, vastly improved trigger. Almost forgot that I also installed a bolt lift kit. Have a Savage heavy barrel in .30/06, .220 Rocket, and a sporter 6.5 Creed.
Just started shooting 110 grain .30 v-maxin it to 3,500 fps and .3" groups. This is a lot of fun and am always looking for more barrels.
Also have model 12 in .223 Ackley and one in 6 mm TCU. Great prairie dog rigs!
Centershot, I am running 3 Savages. A Model 10 in 223 Blind mag Stagger feed with a 22" barrel which was my 1st. It is now in a Sea Camp stock. A Model 11 that I purchased as a barreled action in 243 which now wears a Model 12 26" heavy barrel also in 223 which I had been shooting with a Boyds At-One Thumbhole and now a Model 110 Switchback in 6mmARC , it now wears the At-One Stock and I just started hand loading for it.
In the future the Model 10 will be getting the Target Trigger and a new Shilen 223 4groove 0:7.5 twist and maybe a better stock.. Then the Model 11 may go bye-bye. Waiting to see how this ARC performs.
I’m just a guy Larry. I simply contacted GunShack to ask if they’d order these parts for me. It was Noemi who took the time to speak with me & then she took it to Lance who made the call. So I was simply The Messenger, so to speak.
The Trigger has no bearing on Timing. Remember, we’ve discussed this… in your build thread I believe?
Dave,
You are correct on the timing I forgot.
I received my Red Blade trigger today and I am sure the sear will follow soon. I just do not understand why the Common Trigger Pivot and AccuRelease Pivot PIN did not arrive with an E-clip?
No big deal I'll go to Harbor Freight and buy a 300 piece E-CLIP variety pack for $7.00.
Larry
It’s not included because it’s not a listed part. Just reuse the one from your standard Accutrigger. Or, yes, just grab some. I already told everyone they are 1/8th. Main thing is: Don’t sweat the small stuff… and ya wanna know something? It’s all small stuff!
I got mine all finished up. Knocked off the burrs & edges. Made up a set of my Titanium side shims to zero side play. And I went aged with my my new Overtravel drop idea. I threaded the top side of the hole for the Safety Blade Spring m4-.70; the hole directly in front of the Trigger Safety screw. I could only thread it bit less than halfway, but that was plenty. Then I used an M4 set screw, threaded with the tip facing UP. I had to trim the set screw down just a bit, then bottomed it in the threads tightly with Locktight. Picture below is from online. I just made a mark where the set screw is with a red arrow pointing..roughy above the Safety Blade Spring. It stops against the Trigger safety Bar which is always in the path for it. I’m pleased with the outcome.
I need help from the knowledgeable folks here. I received the trigger, sear and spring, (BIG thanks to all involved arranging this) installation went fine on my 112 BVSS-S and everything is working just as intended. I did have to modify the trigger guard to accommodate the wider trigger which was no big deal. My problem is that even with the spring adjusted to what should be it's weakest/lowest setting the trigger will not go below 22 oz. and I am almost positive it is higher than that since my trigger gauge is an old spring based unit. I replaced a RB Sav-2 on the rifle that was set at 12 oz. using the gauge and was happy with the trigger pull weight but was not happy with the trigger itself. It looks like the only way to lower the pull weight any further is to cut the spring which I would prefer not to do unless as an absolute last resort. Please help.
Did you try testing it without being installed in the stock first? If not, go back and try that first. If the same, just play with it a bunch. Dry fire it while you’re watching TV or something. Did you read earlier where we commented on the parts having considerable burrs, flashing material on the edges? In fact, my Sear had a huge burr right on the relief angle surface. My bet is your parts have similar and this is causing the added weight.
That is of course, so long as you’ve eliminated any possible obvious variables. Hang ups & such. Also, are there any other parts you done which could possibly interfere? Also, make certain the trigger guard isn’t still hindering the trigger. If nothing else, my money is on my previous statement.
Oh yeah… and Do Not cut the Trigger spring!
Yes what I have done so far is I have tested it both in and out of the stock, with and without the trigger guard, with and without the shims I made for side play and the pull weight stays the same. I did order a new trigger guard just in case. I didn't notice any major burrs or flashing but could easily have missed something, I will take it back out and give it a closer examination, I was going to take it back out anyway to work on the safety bar, it works fine other than it is harder than I like to move it to the on position. I did dry fire it for about half an hour, maybe that will help show something.
What do you mean move it to the ON Position? Do you mean the Safety? You can adjust that. Was yours already an Accutrigger? What are you referring to working on with the Safety Bar?
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