Reply With Quotehttps://archive.org/details/gunmanua...e/n12/mode/1up
My take away from the original manual, keep it safe
All I got out of that rant was…..I’m 70 years old, bow down to me I know what I’m talking about��
from a gunsmith that got paid to do a pile of contender trigger work…..the screws help reduce the pull a good bit. A small amount of stone work finishes it up……
https://archive.org/details/gunmanua...e/n12/mode/1up
My take away from the original manual, keep it safe
Makes no sense to have factory installed adjustment screws and not be able to adjust them. I have always done it to my liking.
So i guess my method was not far off from the manual. Except for the bic lighter spring lol. Ive used one at least 2 or 3 times though. I have one original ss action that you could not get to a reasonable weight with just the external screws. The bic spring fixes that easily. You have to be careful and not get it too light with it. I actually cut the bic spring longer than the original heavier factory spring.
idk if im allowed to speak of the bic lighter spring lol. I didn’t come up with the idea. I read it many yrs ago…..somewhere.
I couldn't remember so I had to check some of mine. Here's what I have.
1st Contender 8oz and I would not suggest anyone go this low even though I have never had a problem with it.
2nd Contender 1lb 8oz.
3rd Contender 1lb 6oz.
4th G2 2lb 5oz.
5th Encore 2lb.
6th Encore 1lb 10oz.
^^^^^ Exactly what my smith does for me ^^^^^Originally Posted by HandgunhuntingAfield
gotta love the internet
Nice triggers jules. Thats the kind of weights i like. Mine are probably comparable overall. Ive gauged em before but of course forget. My ss action the 6x47 ott rides on is really really light. Of course Be safe when handling any gun.
Forgot, another short term authority explains all he knows on the subject, carry on,
They are all clean n crisp and I'm happy with all those pull weights. The 8oz I only use for working up loads.
Your reading comprehension is lacking! Nowhere does it mention either screw for lightening anything. But it is very clear that they are for taking travel out! Not one word about removing unwanted wieght of pull! My guess is they figure that should be obvious your going to far!!!!
The fact of physics is obvious the last 1/4 turn is .001"s between engaging or not. With would be clear to anyone who understands physics, it is starting to trip! That is exactly what is happening, it is not a wieght adjustment, and the manual is very clear about that,,,,, if you can comprehend the language used!
Carry on folks, I'm obviously wasting my time trying to explain common sense, since that you either have or you don't. But some here are good at making things say, crap they absoluetly and clearly don't!
Any chance you could be done with the condescension so we could? The pissing contest is getting a little old.
Seems crazy to me to argue how to adjust your own personal trigger on a contender.
It does mention “light” a couple of times as reference to trigger engagement.
More engagement = more pressure to release the sear. Less engagement = less pressure to release the sear. Heavier vs. lighter trigger. This is verifiable with a trigger scale.
It explains further on how to keep adjustments Safe.
Agree to disagree and move on.
Don't hate!
you’ll get there someday. Keep pounding the table and screaming that you are right….one more time and you might reach pro status.
As stated in the Contender manual.......In order to check the adjustment for let-off travel the following procedure should be used. Cock the Contender with the chamber unloaded and the action open. Close the action "sharply". Repeat the procedure several times. If the hammer falls at all when the action is closed "sharply" the adjustment is too light. This condition must be corrected by turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise to increase the trigger engagement. This procedure should be performed after each and every adjustment of the trigger engagement. If this has been done and it passes this test it really makes no difference as long as your happy with the pull weight.
Didn't mean to start a firestorm here - but it has been enlightening! The bic lighter spring idea was a pdf at the old Specialty Pistols website by a Mr. Broas. Had complete instructions with pictures (helpful to those of us who learn by seeing rather than by reading lol). I keep a copy of it in my Contender files. It has worked for me. I always appreciated the good ideas in those days and the good ideas here. Just like anything online, you've got to take all things into consideration, proceed at your own risk and making all things safe is your own responsibility. Seems to me that life is too short to get all worked up over stuff. Just be smart, be kind, do the best you can, stay safe, and have fun. Good to have places like this to chat about our favorite hobbies. Always a good idea to keep it civil. Thanks for the many positive comments and suggestions...
"In order to check the adjustment for let-off travel the following procedure should be used. Cock the Contender with the chamber unloaded and the action open. Close the action "sharply". Repeat the procedure several times. If the hammer falls at all when the action is closed "sharply" the adjustment is too light. This condition must be corrected by turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise to increase the trigger engagement. This procedure should be performed after each and every adjustment of the trigger engagement. If this has been done and it passes this test it really makes no difference as long as your happy with the pull weight."
Think I'll go check all my Contender frames right now just to satisfy my ocd...and to remind myself to be on the safe side...
This may be one of those perfect opportunities for all involved to learn that it's ok to just nod in agreement and let it go even though you don't agree.
In the 20+ years I've been running this site I've dealt most every kind of internet personality you could imagine, and then probably a few more from the deep dark depths of Hell that were well beyond the scope of your imagination. There will always be those who insist they are right. There are always going to be those who insist they know better. There are always going to be those who no matter how many times you show them the "right" way to do something they'll still insist their way is better. Sometimes they may be right, sometimes they may be totally wrong - in my experience it plays out to about 50/50 odds so might as well just flip a coin to decide who's right. And of course there are also times where both are right and just approach the subject from different perspectives, the same as there are times where both sides are completely wrong and don't have a clue what they're talking about (see any of the various firearm related facebook groups for unlimited examples of the latter)
As my dad used to frequently say, "There are many ways to skin a cat, but some are more hazardous than others." Now I don't know a darn thing about Encore's so I'm not going to attempt to discern if one side's right and the other side's wrong in this, but what I can say is that after reading through the back and forth in this post it's obvious Wildcatter was just concerned about people's safety and possibly some potentially bad information being shared. Having had to address similar situations regarding Savage trigger adjustment info on this forum countless times over the last 20-some years I know exactly where he was coming from and that his concern was well-intended even if it came off more brash and confrontational than he probably intended. I've been guilty of that a time or two as well with some of my responses to "questionable" info or ideas being shared. This is also why you don't see any trigger adjustment articles in our Gunsmithing Articles or FAQ's area of the main site - you just never know who's going to read it and/or if that person is competent and knowledgeable enough about firearms to work on their own trigger. As such it's always best to just err on the side of caution.
As for the "Clown" comment, Wildcatter has already acknowledged that the name calling was uncalled for and apologized for it so I think we can consider that aspect of the conversation settled.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Thanks for this. Well said.
I’m sorry this thread has gone to crap. I think wildcatter means well. IME, triggers are kind of tricky, although Contenders are some of the most simple.
First, it helps to have the sear surfaces polished square and smooth, but this really is not required. Really, you need static friction between sear surfaces much greater than sliding friction. I’ve polished the crap out of guns and it usually makes that better, but sometimes worse. This is the main way creep feeling is reduced. Creep is the feeling of the sliding friction.
Then….or just skip #1 and start here. Adjust the sear engagement for a creepy pull. Reduce sear engagement by adjusting the screw until the sear releases. This is too far. Back off 1/2 turn. This is minimum engagement. Then keep adding engagement until you think the trigger is getting bad. Basically, you want as much sear engagement as possible without the trigger feeling creepy.
Last, adjust the overtravel until it won’t release. The while pressing trigger adjust until the sear releases. Then keep going 1/2 turn. This puts you at some risk of poor reliability. So, keep adding over travel until you sense over travel.
Do all this with wet purple locktite on the screws. The goal here is to maximize overtravel and sear engagement while you still feel a great trigger. Make sense? Sear engagement and overtravel all make the gun safer, but feel worse. So, there is a balance.
Past this, ordering trigger springs from Belmn and clipping coils can get you from benchrest light to lawyer heavy on most guns.
What wildcat was trying to say is if you could see the sear under a microscope, you would see it is not perfectly mated or square. Adjusting the sear engagement can often get us to a point where weight goes down, but the sear engagement is hanging by a burr or partial mating. This feels ok, but is ready to jar off. I get that many people have adjusted this screw to reduce weight, but I think you would be wiser to better understand the mechanism. I did this with an MOA trigger once. I’m glad I looked through the sear peek window to see it wasn’t cocking right before finishing my adjustment. Unfortunately, there is no peek window in a Contender.
Good luck sir. Also try a jar off test where the gun is smacked on its but and sides to confirm the trigger is sprung and engaged well enough to be safe. Also confirm push off and wiggling the trigger side to side.
Yep - good advice.
Yes, good advice.
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