Received my Shileen barrel today, way ahead of expected.
Wrapped and padded and in a triangle tube.
Was worried a little as the UPS site listed package weight as 1.8 pounds.
Will clean, measure, borescope and mount to receiver soon.
Didn't get to mount the .243 barrel as the stock is still a week or so out.
This just might make it as a Christmas present for the wife.
LOL! Oh this new revolution of borescoping before ever firing a single round! Especially when the vast majority of of shooters have no clue what they are looking at in the steel, and freak out upon seeing any difference at all.
I’m not pointing this at you specifically Rocketvapor. You are merely the effect of this new era, not the cause. Good luck with everything.
If I had a borescope it would be important to me to use it on a new barrel just to establish the baseline. Then periodically after a certain number of rounds through the barrel.
Got an AR barrel with a burr at the gas port. Didn't borescope it first and blew up bullets (88's) then popped primers.
Took extra effort to clean it up. Copper all around the port. At least this bolt gun barrel doesn't have a gas port :)
Here's a pic of primer with anvil blown through the cup.
Besides, have a week or so before the stock gets here.
Gonna check fit of neck with a case in it, and pin it for size.
Shileen used dummies I supplied so it should be good.
Now days you just don't get barrels with errors.
I didn’t say don’t inspect the barrel. I always look down the bore with light, for any obstruction. A burr that would cause serious malfunction would have been easily seen by the naked eye. Again though, like I said I wasn’t addressing you specifically. I don’t mean to condemn people for using a borescope. Everyone is free to do as they wish. My contention is with the changing demographics of the hobby. I can point to one of many threads here where a new member started a thread condemning their brand new rifle without ever shooting a single round. Condemning all because they purchased a trusty Amazon Borescope & saw some machining marks, surface rust or other superficial mark. Once again, these are shooters who don’t understand the characteristics of machine, or steel; they don’t know what they are looking at, yet decide to immediately send their rifles back for warranty. I’m sure Savage is not the only brand being affected. Gun manufacturers must hate these readily available, inexpensive borescopes. I simply think they more often create a problem where non exists. I and many others have been diagnosing actual problem in our own firearms for many, many years, without using a borescope. Just my personal belief. Each is free to their own of course. Borescopes can be had now for as little as $20! The better ones with full screens are only $130. Even with that, and though I have the knowledge to understand certain marks on the steel surface within a bore, I have yet to purchase one. And I simply don’t see a need.
I will ask you Charlie, if using a Botescope would be important to you, why not purchase one now, having the knowledge they are so affordable? A half decent unit only costs $50. Or, like me, is it really just not that important?!
Ran a couple dry patches through the bore to remove the lube then the borescope.
Right off the bat this Shillen (Select Match) bore has very light machining marks. I mean very light.
End of lands have been lapped pretty smooth, the lands themselves look great.
Not saying my X-Caliber barrels were bad, and smoothed out with use, but this one is pretty.
Land freebore with the other barrels had reamer marks, not bad, but you could easily see them.
This thing looks sweet :)
I saw NO rough spots, dings, nicks, gouges down the bore.
Now to headspace, hopefully to both the .378 bolthead and the .422 bolthead to shoot both 22 Nosler cases and 22 Nosgar.
We have another 600yd match in December but the Savage won't be ready so at least one more with the AR.
I expect to have to do a little bit of load work for the new barrel.
Getting bolts together.
What's the difference in extractors? I got a couple spares with my Birthday Discount @ Midway and they are like the one on the right in the pic. Preference?
This barrel is even heavier than the AR barrels :)
The 6.8 Extractor is somewhat of an enhanced version. The other 2 are simply different lengths, but all extractors work in all Bolt Heads.
I understand the full explanation Dave. Your first comment was still a bit on the rude side.
And no, it isn't important to me to get a borescope.
Opinions vary
Fit and work are not the same.Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I don't have a problem with opinions.
This is my first bolt gun build and respect the knowledge on this sight with respect to Savage stuff.
Many thanks for all the help.
Everybody seemed to be out of the extractor unless you bought a $25 "Kit".
I jumped on Midway when they came in. Birthday discount was a whole buck on these.
Would it be a good idea to put the same thing in both bolts.
Fit AND work would be nice :)
I wouldn’t worry about changing anything unless you have a problem.
You may come to find those $25-$30 extractor kits are worth gold. Every Savage I ever get will use either a Kinney’s or Lumley bolt head parts kit. They come with heavier springs & the larger diameter extractor bearing ball.
Getting closer.
Got some poly on the SSS stock.
Bout ready to load up some ammo and get her to the range.
Need to cut foam.
Lookin’ good my friend.
Loading up some test ammo for Flo's first test of her Christmas present, sometime next week.
Headspace is set to about the same as her AR. I usually load with 0.002" to 0.003" less (minimal gas).
Going for 0.001" to 0.002" for the Savage. Have fit checked 50 sized/once fired cases (22 Nosgar made from 6mm Hagar).
Starting load will be the same as her AR using Sorted CCI450, SB6.5, 85.5.
Will need to get the scope set up for her, prone, rest and bag. Using 1.16" medium, 34mm rings, and a XTR2 8-40X50.
Will take the higher one piece mount along with us just in case.
Torqued every thing down:
Front action screw 45 inlbs, rear 35 inlbs, 8x40 rail to action 30 inlbs, ring to rail 35 inlb, rings to scope 17.575 inch pounds :).
Added some thin foam under the velvet to support the barrel better and some in the lid over the bolts.
Thinking about cutting in a slot for a cleaning rod.
I always add a slot for a cleaning rod. Mainly cause the first time I don't bring it I need one :)
Nice looking rig. Good luck with shooting.
Thanks.
Gonna cut in the cleaning rod. Already had a range trip without one.
I'm also gonna hide a 5mm (36" long) Plastic coated Stainless Steel Rod under the foam.
It's kinda like driving off road and not having a big hammer :)
Got sidetracked in another thread on firing pins.
So, I've decided that the common pin protrusion of 0.060" is WAY to much.
I'll adjusted the old style pins to around 0.045".
Dave thinks 0.035" would be fine, but for the first time out I'll go with this.
Will take one old style and one new style when we go to the range.
Now my issue (ONLY WITH THE NEWSTYLE).
I bought a receiver with bolt from NorthLand (black bolt body) and 243 bolt head.
Bought a 6.8 bolt head to convert it to 22 Nosgar.
Bought a new stainless bolt in 223 from Midway, to shoot 22 Nosler. It had an old style pin.
Bought a stainless bolt in 223 from Ebay, with new style pin.
Bought Bolt body and small parts including another new style pin, all three spring pieces from Gun Shack #108849.
Here are the springs from the 2 new style bolts and the spring from Gun Shack that does not seem right.
What do I have? A new spring, an old compressed spring and a wrong spring?
I'll contact Gun Shack and see what they say.
Looks like I got the springs mixed up.
Pressing on the bathroom scale with the cocking indicator touching my thumb in the BAS hole I get 23.5 lbs on the short spring, 32 pounds on the midlength spring, and forget it with the big spring.
Rocket, I don’t think it will work fine. I’m telling you, .035” is not only fine, it’s considered optimum. The anvil in the primer stops the firing pin. No Savage firing pin will ever go more than .025” into the primer. Any more than .035” is only limiting FP travel aka, Firing Pin Fall.
As for the springs, use the longest spring. This has been the ongoing issue with the new style FP assembly. In your photo, your old spring is shorter because it has collapsed and taken a set at that shorter length. This is the norm with cheap, low quality springs. Over time, the same thing will happen to the New, Longer spring as well. But for a time you should get some reliability from it. All this is why I’m still searching for a good spring replacement made from Chrome-Silicon, which does not take a set & holds more stored energy with lighter wire than standard spring wire. I’m researching some companies to perhaps have them made.
With the new firing pins, there is no reason to adjust protrusion You are not changing spring compression or travel....unless you remove material from the firing pin tip. Why bother. If you have consistent ignition, run with it.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Thanks for the replies.
Rifle does not have a single shot through it yet.
I took two of the New pins down to 0.044"-0.045" from 0.060" that we will try Thursday.
Set up for 223 bolts (22 Nosler)
Set an old style to 0.045" set up for 6.8 bolt (22 Nosgar).
Once we have some rounds down the pipe we will likely go on down closer to 0.035" on both types.
0.060" protrusion seems to be the scapegoat when primer problems are reported by shooters.
There was a thread that went on and on that claimed protrusion (and spring force/travel) caused everything.
Dave, I agree with the 0.035" being optimum, but for the first outing I'll split the difference just to see IF we have any problems.
Just don't want to fire this thing with a 0.060" pin. Why risk problems.
Now, the springs :)
I managed to get the BIG spring seated with the new style pin. Man that was tough.
Since I'm taking two of these I'll use the two largest springs for now.
And tools and spare parts :)
I have another (dumb?) question though.
When you guys talk about spring force, like 23 lbs or 32 lbs springs;
IS THAT COCKED OR DECOCKED FORCE?
For someone with a new style what is the length of your good spring?
Pictures always seem to show the spring seated in the BAS so hard to tell.
This range trip will only be with the wife's rifle.
The spring force is just a number. A standard measurement for compression springs is Inch Pounds. The stock savage spring (old style) is 28lbs. Wolff makes a Xtra power spring which is 32lbs., and among the dumbest thing ideas out there. The old style FP assemblies were already severely oversprung at 28. So 32lbs is just ludicrous! However, that rating is just potential energy. There are so many aspects that go into the actual energy transmitted to the Primer. Which is why I used that rather rudimentary statement in an earlier reply. We can talk about Inch-Pounds, Inch-ounces, mathematical equations for force & whatnot all we want. But in the end, who cares? I make it real simple: I will only use the old style adjustable FP assembly and want the spring as light as possible while maintaining 100% reliability.
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