First time Savage Build, questions and progress

[Dave Hoback]

What brand & material is that AR barrel?

[Rocketvapor]

X-Caliber, SS, 28" bull, 1:7, 5R, No-Gas port.
Accuracy started dropping off before 3000 rounds and I ordered a replacement.
Same as, except with a port this time (same as the wife's barrel with about 750 or so rounds).

Another question on the Savage receiver.
Accutrigger has about 0.015" space between trigger and holder.
What would be desired?
Haven't pulled the pin but also seems to have a couple thou of slop pin to hole.
I can make shims (or buy), and maybe even a pin that fits a little tighter.

[Dave Hoback]

Like this? Actually, this is the Trigger Pin through the bracket that holds the assembly to the Action, but a pin for the trigger could also be made.


Or these? The shims I machine from Titanium. I’ve been making these for years & use them in all the trigger jobs I do for members here. I’ve also sent a few members just the shims. Really the trigger to bracket pin isn’t even needed. You’ll find the shims really tighten things up & eliminate ALL side play.


I would be happy to send you a couple shims if you’d like.

[Rocketvapor]

I would gladly PP F&F something reasonable for a couple shims.
PM what you think would cover them and an address to give you something for your trouble.

I noticed the upper pin to the action must be retained by the stock (which we don't have yet).
Don't want to get too deep into this trigger but want Flo to shoot it some before I change out to the Rifle Basic.
That way she can decide which one she likes best.

Spending time today with a pin set and mics measuring the new AR barrel.
Borescope looks pretty good but might feather the gas port just a tad with a pointed diamond burr.
Then just a little bore polish.

No patch snags.

[Dave Hoback]

Yeah, the retention pins are different between the 110 & Axis. But like I said, from my experience, the shims pretty much eliminate all side play. I don’t take money for this stuff. Doing Trigger jobs, making small parts to give out; I do these & also make the older style bar springs for the 2 & 3-screw triggers of the 110. It’s a pleasure just sitting to help out.

Just message your address and I’ll drop some shims in the mail.

[Rocketvapor]

You be da man Dave.
Just playing around, bored embracing the wait :)
Checked against 2 500gr weights,
then checked trigger pull at the light end.
Doesn't seem to drop when bumped or slammed home.


Indicated force not corrected for local gravity or buoyancy, but close.

[Dave Hoback]

If it’ll hold like that, run it! Great thing is it’s an Accutrigger so it’s 100% regardless of tripping. (Thing I love about Safe Action triggers!)

[Rocketvapor]

Looks like I might have to dremel off the front of the scope rail to get more bite with the wrench.
Cut, file, smooth, Aluminum Black. Won't do it until the stock comes in and we see where the rings/mount will be.
I don't see needing the front most notch.
Maybe just 1/8" would be enough?
Thoughts??

[charlie b]

I had to cut off the front of mine to clear the scope bell. I tend to set my scopes back a bit.

PS if it doesn't interfere with the scope don't worry about it. If you need to use the barrel nut the scope mount has to come off anyway (using an action vise).

[Dave Hoback]

Looks like I might have to dremel off the front of the scope rail to get more bite with the wrench.
Cut, file, smooth, Aluminum Black. Won't do it until the stock comes in and we see where the rings/mount will be.
I don't see needing the front most notch.
Maybe just 1/8" would be enough?
Thoughts??

No problem doing that. Did the same as my Chassis uses tube style forearm. Not all Scope Rails have that extended in the front either. I only had to mill off the one Picatinny “bar & groove” from the front. Then I sanded & just used Birchwood Casey “Aluma-Black”. Works great on small black touch up spots on Aluminum. Much like Cold Bluing. I do my own Cerakote for whole parts. Good luck!

[Rocketvapor]

I use The Aluminum Black to keep my AR receivers pretty :)

Ebay'd some ball bearings, 3.5mm to replace the one under the extractor.
Oops, already had one in there. Wasn't 1/8".

[Rocketvapor]

Ground back the end of rail just enough to get full bite with the Nut Wench.

[Dave Hoback]

Nicely done.

[Rocketvapor]

Dumb Question :)
For a model 10 SA RH, New one piece firing pin, single feed with a sled'
Can a Left handed bolt head be used 180 out (extractor on the right) on a Right receiver,right port,
WITHOUT Ejector?

Guess I could take it down, AGAIN, and flip the right handed one around.
If that fit OK then the left to right ought to work.
Just lazy.

Found enough posts to support using the left head on a right bolt, single shot.

[Rocketvapor]

Finally made it out to the mail box and installed Dave's titanium shims.
Greased and slipped in. 0.008" X 2 took out slop with no dragging.
THANK YOU DAVE

I'd take a picture of the installation, but they don't show.

[Dave Hoback]

Finally made it out to the mail box and installed Dave's titanium shims.
Greased and slipped in. 0.008" X 2 took out slop with no dragging.
THANK YOU DAVE

I'd take a picture of the installation, but they don't show.

My pleasure partner. I actually had uploaded a picture in post #28.

[Rocketvapor]

Have a question on spare parts.
The bolt I have for the wife's model 10 is the newest of the new, Long handled, one piece firing pin, dual spring with the keyring washer, cocking indicator, and 243/308 bolt head for the temporary .243 used barrel I bought.
After the 22N barrel comes in I will want to set up a bolt using the 6.8SPC/224V bolthead and one for the .223 bolthead.
(checking head space of course)
So, looking at a USED 10/110 SA, RH, .223 bolt, one piece firing pin, cocking indicator, BUT, has the one piece spring.
Other than the bolt head which I want, front baffle for short calibers, and the spring, maybe the BAS if not recessed the same,

Everything else is the same, RIGHT?

Thanks for your answer (below).

[Dave Hoback]

Yes. The bolt sleeve, flex washer, Cross Pin, rear baffle, firing pin striker & Cocking piece Pin are all the same.

[Rocketvapor]

Still no stock or barrel (except a temporary .243 barrel) so collecting parts.
Once the Shilen barrel gets here I should be able to set up for both cases for the 22N.
Gonna get a black bolt handle for an Ebay bolt that just came in.

Swapped parts and everything fits and runs pretty smooth, except PTG bolt head.


Need to measure and find the difference between bolt heads. This be fixable?

[Dave Hoback]

It’s fixable. However, it appears your bolt head needs machined. Which calls for a lathe. I can see the marks where you put the arrows, but let me ask: did it still function? And that’s just where it’s making contact, or would the Bolt Head not even function?

[Rocketvapor]

Still functioned. Once it got past the leading edge of the bolt head the bolt closed.
Very small marks inside receiver. I'll polish the leading contact edge, blending burrs caused by the PTG head.
No issue until I tried that one. Seemed to be a quite noticeable bump compared to other boltheads.

Measuring the cross pin holes and all are the same. Will pass a 0.250 (-) pin but not a 0.250 (+) pin.
Height (thickness) of 3 different heads is about 0.0002" different, with the PTG being the same as one Savage head.
One has a little leading edge taper.
Using Face as a reference to pin hole height, is the same.
Gonna polish the interfering spots on the the leading edge of the bolt head.
The edges on the PTG are sharp.

Now to measure face depth of the 4 bolts I have. Primarily interested in the two I plan to finish up on, the PTG 6.8SPC bolthead for 22 Nosgar, and the Savage .223 bolthead for 22 Nosler. Would like for them to very close to each other so I don't have to adjust headspace when changing.


Touched up the edges of the PTG bolt with wet 2000 grit paper.
Now to crawl inside the receiver and work there :)
Think I'll glue some of that 2000 to some sticks.


Doesn't seem to be as bad as I first thought, OH NO, the bolt head is chewing on the wife's receiver and it happens to be the expensive one.
Guess I've been reading too many horror stories about bolts :)
If it sounds like I'm being overcritical, looking for dings, scratches, wear marks, well, I am :)

Inside of receiver looks OK (to me) now.


Can't seem to get rid of these Attached Thumbnails
(below)

[Dave Hoback]

First, use Dykem or bluing of some sort for the bolt lugs. Then you can see where the Bolt & Receiver lugs surfaces are making contact. Then get or make some lapping compound and lap the lugs surfaces. I used several kinds of Silicone Carbide medium & Vaseline to make varying course to find lapping pastes. It works quite well. This happens normally over time. (A couple Thous. rounds), but doing it by hand works quite well.

Here’s a tutorial. (But don’t use the Dremel. I didn’t & don’t recommend it. That’s the point of varying level compounds.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtBNkA5tMvw

[Rocketvapor]

Thanks.
Will watch the video and go SLOW :)
Using blueing the bolthead doesn't scratch and feels better.
Nice smooth wear pattern. It was only nicks on the leading edge.
Maybe handling dings?

The PTG bolthead won't be needed until the Shilen barrel shows up.
Picked the better looking (new) of the larger boltheads for the 243 barrel, cut about 3-4 loops off the ejector spring, already has the larger extractor ball, and had the wife go through disassembly and assembly of the bolt. I'll probably be the one doing maintenance but it's nice to know stuff and she seemed interested.
She's a retired Marine and likes guns :)

Gonna wait for the stock to headspace the temporary barrel.

[Rocketvapor]

USPS delivered a second used barrel today (from a member here).
26", Model 12, 243, SS Fluted 1:9.25. Looks to be in good shape.
Once the stock comes in I'll assemble so the wife has something to practice with.
Once we get to the range and shoot it I'll decide on spending money on brass, bullets, dies, etc.
Have some 100gr SP that ought to do OK @ 100 just to try it out.

[Rocketvapor]

Busy finishing up a load out for a 600yd match this Saturday 22 Nosler/22 Nosgar.
But have been shopping around for bullets/brass for the temporary .243 barrel (26" varmint, 1:9.25).

Looks like the Berger 87gr HPBT will work in the 9.25, maybe out to 600yds.
I figure 2/3 hundred of these and another 100 cases should last until the real barrel comes in.
Of course, still waiting on the stock.
Looks like I will stay with LRP brass, only have about 1500 WLR primers, and save the SRP for the 22N and 223.
Haven't been shooting the bigger guns for a while and not what I would want for 60+ rounds anyway.
Will likely have to stay away from heavy loads with the WLR.
I have several powders that are listed in data books (and online), IMR4350, IMR6064, IMR4328SSC, Reloader 17, and the newer SB 6.5.
First range trip, 100yds, will be with 100gr SP factory rounds, but want to try something out to 600.
Shopping Grafs, Powder Valley, Midway, etc.

Just to go bang, I have these;

Hopefully they won't go sideways out to 100 yds :)
Any thoughts on the 87gr Berger HPBT? or maybe the 95gr Berger HPBT? in a 1:9.25?
Playing with a ballistic calculator, not much chance of getting good results with this barrel @ 600 yds.
Best bet is a temporary bolt gun for Flo. Back to waiting for the real barrel