Reply With QuoteDo you have the Accutrigger? Did you check that you have assembled properly? Explain what you mean by: “if I push it all the way in it will cock one time then I have to do the same thing over again.” Can you explain a little more clear?
I just got a new PT&G Savage Bolt body M#112 short action . Put the new bolt togather and now it will not stay cocked . The new bolt body is made thinner where the cocking piece is so do I need a new cocking piece that goes in the bolt ? If I push it all the way in it will cock one time then I have to do the samething over again .
Thanks Art
Do you have the Accutrigger? Did you check that you have assembled properly? Explain what you mean by: “if I push it all the way in it will cock one time then I have to do the same thing over again.” Can you explain a little more clear?
I have a Rifle Basix trigger . If I put the old bolt body back on it works just fine . I called the cocking piece and should have said cocking pin don't catch on the sear and will not cock . But push the push the cocking pin in it will stay cocked .
See the bolt body is a smaller Dia where the cocking pin goes . so I can push the pin in or put it out because of the body different dia . Yes I have all the parts right in the bolt body , because if I put the firing pin back in the old Bolt body everything works ok .
I think I may need a later cocking pin to go with this bolt body . I bought this gun new in 2004 and my bolt body didn't have the resessed section on the body .. would there be a difference in the cocking pins ?
The factory Savage uses a different diameter where the cocking pin goes in as well. Are you saying the cocking pin is coming out? The pin is held in place by the cocking sleeve. When exactly are you “pushing” it in? Before you rack the bolt? I’m sure it can be remedied, but without seeing it, it’s difficult to say what is happening.
Doesn't really matter. Obviously there is some machining difference. Contact PTG for a refund.
The bolt bodies that are reduced at the cocking ramp use a thicker cocking piece pin.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Oh… you have an older rifle with a bolt like this, huh?
Opposed to newer bolts like this.
Yes, it’s like Fred said. Sorry. I didn’t even think about that. Well, if you have trouble finding one, I’m actually going to machine a new one from Titanium. I’ll give you my factory part when I do. I might even machine several in Titanium. We’ll see
You could also use a shim under the one you have. Haven’t tried this, but the argument is sound.
I would do this. (If I wasn’t making a whole new.) use some shim material. You can measure the diameter difference of the two bolts & use shim stock as close to that as possible. Cut a piece and drill the appropriate pin hole size through it. Then epoxy to the underside of the pin. When is cured, you can file, sand the excess. Or if you have the means, chuck it in a drill and spin against a grinder, belt sander.
Where would you put the shim?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
just buy the correct part for it now that you know there’s a difference? Probably the fastest fix.
Maybe Gunshack has it? If not Fred probably has hundreds.
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Oh… you have an older rifle with a bolt like this, huh?
Opposed to newer bolts like this.
Yes, it’s like Fred said. Sorry. I didn’t even think about that. Well, if you have trouble finding one, I’m actually going to machine a new one from Titanium. I’ll give you my factory part when I do. I might even machine several in Titanium. We’ll see
Yes , with a newer bolt body . I really didn't know there was a difference till I did some diggen .
I'll take your factory pin and could you make me a Titanium pin . Not asking for a freeby .Oh… you have an older rifle with a bolt like this, huh?
Opposed to newer bolts like this.
Yes, it’s like Fred said. Sorry. I didn’t even think about that. Well, if you have trouble finding one, I’m actually going to machine a new one from Titanium. I’ll give you my factory part when I do. I might even machine several in Titanium. We’ll see
Do you have a cocking pin that will work with a old style bolt with the new bolt body ?
Guess I need a new cocking pin for my new bolt body that will work with my old firing pin . LOL LOL That is crazy LOL I hope there is such a animal . LOL LOL
This old gun shoots pretty good it will got in the 1's in one time out of 5 100 yrd targets , I just wanted to take some of the slop out of the bolt . My old bolt had a dia of .293 and the new one has a dia of .7000 and it works in the old action pretty good .
The Cocking piece has been the same all the way up to the newer 1-piece style firing pin that has the cocking cocking piece built in. So yes, it’s the standard cocking piece pin still used in the higher end series 110’s & 12’s. But finding one in stock is the problem. Gun Shack does not have them.
Numrich has this one, but I’m not certain if it’s the thicker style.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1354170g
Edit: on looking at the schematics & cross reference, I do think that is the thicker pin. It should work. If it doesn’t, I’ll give you mine. Again, I’m making some new ones anyway.
The bigger bolt may feel better, but it won't necessarily shoot better. I've seen several cases of a larger diameter bolt body causing more flyers because of the fact it has removed some of the "float".
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I agree. I’ll grab one at some point. Just haven’t up to now because there’s always something else, LOL!
Well I have ordered two new cocking pins for a later ( 2018 ) model savage and they are all the same as my old 2020 pin . Where can I order a new pin and get a pin with a thicker head ????
I just measured the head of both cicking pins and one is .024 thicker than the other . But the new one still will not work. I'm missing something here . Bolt bodies both measured the same , only defference is the dia on the bolt body at the cocking pin . The way I see it I need a cocking pin with the head .183 thick . No one has ever put a newer bolt body on a older bolt before ??
I posted a link in response #16. I’m not 100% positive it’s the correct one, but I believe it is. Check it out. I’m actually starting to machine a couple of these pins from Titanium this week. We’ll see how it goes.
Yeah ,I have ordered one from Numrich the picture looks like it is what I need .
Thanks , Art
I started making a new Cocking Pin from 6AL4V Titanium today. Got the body turned down. I still need to shave just the tiniest bit off. Then machine the head to depth and cut it correct length. Love that Titanium, but man o man the stuff can be frustrating if you let it. A new level of patience is needed with it. Especially when no using the best of tools. Again, no Lathe for me, so all turning is done via Mil.
How are you making these on a mill? If u need me to do anything on the lathe for you lmk. Any worries about the Ti not being hard enough? I assume the cocking pin is hardened steel. I know in the machine shop I have seen titanium have wear resistance issues.
Appreciate that…How do I turn things on a mill? Veeeery carefully, LOL! Seriously, the same way items are turned in a lathe. I can only do small items. And it doesn’t have very high precision of a good lathe, so I have to finish by hand. And also, I don’t make things which require precision to the Ten-Thousandths decimal. Oh, and nothing intricate. I can’t turn on a bevel or do threading. Just small pieces parts.. like this, or the Firing Pin I made.
No, I’m not worried. You said in the machine shop you’ve seen Ti have wear issues. Compared to what? The factory Pins are a low alloy steel & firearms parts aren’t as “hard” as people think. Certainly not to a custom Knifemaker like myself. I deal with many very high alloy Tool & Stainless steels which I heat treat & temper in the low 60’s HRC Rockwell. That’s HARD! And no gun part is hardened anywhere near that level. Firearms parts are heat treated in the low 30’s to 40’s Rockwell, typically. A 1911 Sear is probably one of the harder gun parts, and they are only maybe 43HRC. Now Titanium is actually harder than many people think. At least Grade 5 Titanium. That’s 6AL4V, denoting the chemical composition of 6% Aluminum & 4% Vanadium in the mix! It’s typically 30-34 Rockwell in the full Annealed state. Properly solution & aged treated Titanium will reach 41+ Rockwell. Work hardening can add another point or so. So the numbers are actually very close. I’ve actually played around with making titanium knives, and while it’s certainly not blade steel, it’s still pretty hard.
Oh, just for reference: Remember on the Rockwell “C” scale, a Diamond is the hardest substance at 100HRC. The Hardest steel used for cutting tools, like the lathe bits many people use, are maybe 65-67HRC. The hardest steel we can produce currently is REX 76 & 121 which will reach about 71HRC. That is CRAZY hard!
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