Rifle back from Savage (New Barrel)

[Hylander]

I'm sure some remember my complaint of a bad bore on my 110 Hunter .223
Well it went back to Savage for a new barrel. Got it back the other day with a new barrel installed. So today was Range day.
Rifle shoots great, good groups and no flyers.
Fired a mix of jacketed and all copper bullets with no cleaning through the whole session.
Bore cleaned up much easier with no heavy copper fouling.
Couple loads I tried.

[pdog06]

Awesome. Glad they made it right.

[GaCop]

Very nice groups from a new barrel.

[Hylander]

Almost forgot.
Top group was first out of the barrel.
Bottom was last from the barrel.
This was with my plinking load for my AR and Mini-14, go figure.

[Dave Hoback]

Good stuff.

[charlie b]

Glad they made it right. Nice shooting.

[Hylander]

Just ordered the LE/Varmint trigger spring.
Can not adjust the trigger below #3.5

[hamiltonkiler]

Should have used an ink pen spring.
Pew pew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dave Hoback]

Even better: custom sized springs, seated on turned down .75” set screw to act as an over-travel stop. Also, ya need to replace the safety blade spring with a lighter spring as well. It must be lighter than the trigger spring itself.

[Hylander]

Even better: custom sized springs, seated on turned down .75” set screw to act as an over-travel stop. Also, ya need to replace the safety blade spring with a lighter spring as well. It must be lighter than the trigger spring itself.

Well poo,
I didn't know about a lighter blade spring. Is that something I can replace with a pen spring or do I need to order another spring?

[Dave Hoback]

The Target Accutrigger uses the lighter blade spring. But nobody sells them. Like I said, I do a custom setup. I had to modify elements of my trigger to fit the spring I used. But that alone won’t magically lower the weight of your trigger. If you can not get below 3lbs even using the lighter spring, I’m wondering if yours might have uneven, rough surfaces, and/or burrs on the mating surfaces. That is the first thing I address. I stone the mating surfaces of the Sear & Trigger & make bring them into parallel alignment. Then I add shims to eliminate any trigger side play and also bend the bracket hooks of the Sear to match the trigger with no side play. Last is modification to the spring catch on the blade & press in a brass keeper plug on the bottom of the trigger for the new, smaller blade spring, and install the springs and Over travel Stop screw. There is more to a trigger than just how light it is. My triggers actually “feel” lighter than they are. I don’t even use one of those trigger pull weight meters. I believe people get too hung up looking for a number on the screen. I go by feel; how it feels to my index finger. A smooth, glass like breaking trigger that has little to no creep & stops like a Formula 1 car on the brakes, is deceptively light. I’ve had people guess my 1911 triggers are 2lbs., when they actually show around 4lbs. on the pull gauge.

[Hylander]

Thanks Dave.
I go by feel as to how light I like a trigger.
At the range it felt heavier than it is, which is #3.5
And will not go lower.
Most of my bolt rifles are at about #2.5 which feels good to me.
When the spring gets here I will take the trigger apart and stone all contact areas.

[Hylander]

They sent me the wrong spring.
They sent the heaviest.
#4 - #6
They were supposed to send the #1.5 - #4
The spring they sent is visually thicker than my factory spring.