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Thread: Can't budge the retainer pin for the ejector??

  1. #1
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    Can't budge the retainer pin for the ejector??


    Trying to strip down the bolt on my new (to me) Savage 12 VLP (.204) in order to measure CBTO contact with the lands. Had no trouble removing firing pin but for the life of me I can not even get the retainer pin for the ejector to move at all. I have bent a 1/16" drift punch, a finishing nail and have had zero success with a 1/16th" drill bit. Soaking it in some Kroll overnight but can't figure out why it won't come out.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks

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    Welcome. Firstly, this is the wrong spot to post this. You should ask and see Fiona of your model 12 in the 10/110 forum section. One of the Moderators will likely move it there.

    Hopefully you are driving from the correct side? The pin is splined and come out/goes only from one side. This article explains and shows the correct way. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...Removal&page=2

    We see see these fairly often. And like those, my guess is you drive the pin the wrong way which essentially “locks” the pin in. Sort of like stripping a bolt. You could try a 1/16 blunted drill bit as a punch being it’s shorter it will have greater rigidity. Although careful of it breaking. Worse case scenario, it may need drilled.

    BTW: It’s not necessary to remove the ejector in order to measure CBTO. What method are you using?

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    Thanks Dave Hoback - Perhaps one of the moderators can move this to the proper section of the forum. Should I start a new thread there or leave it here?

    I am sure I am trying to drive it out from the correct side, based upon other articles/you tubes I have seen - from the round hole - not the half moon cutout side. Can't figure out how to post an image using the URL - will have to research that?

    I read the article you referenced and I see someone else had the same issue, but there was no reply as to how it was resolved.

    I removed the firing pin and tried to get the bolt to "free fall" but it didn't. I like to use the Alex Wheeler method of measuring to the lands. I have done it many times by removing the firing pin assembly on my Rem 700's and never had any issues. Is there something else I need to remove on the bolt to get it to work? I do also have the Hornady OAL Gauge but this is my first .204 so I don't have a modified cartridge case and thought it would be faster to just use the Wheeler method rather than ordering a modified case or finding someone with a lathe to drill and tap one of my owned fire formed cases.

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    For photos, try this: https://imgbb.com/ It’s really easy to 3rd party host. Upload the image, click it & then copy & paste the BBCode url from the menu.

    Yeah, I’ve heard of a few that wouldn’t come out. Honestly, most people never report back their fix. And some who finally got it. Don’t know how old yours is, but it’s possible you just have one that’s seized. I’ve heard of guys using ultra sonic cleaner and finally getting it. Crud can actually get in the hole and stop it up. Might want to try like I mentioned. Use a short piece of 1/16” drill rod. Also make sure the head is level & supported firmly when attempting to drive the pin. I’m sure you likely did have it such, but I’m just saying things I know.

    To get the bolt to drop free using the Alex Wheeler method, I’ve seen people strip the bolt down. No pin, no wave washer in the front & no Rear baffle. Get rid of those and then use a piece of straightened coat hanger inserted to hold the cross pin in place. Seems like a lot just to check COAL, LOL. I made my own OAL gauge like the Hornady & tapped a case. It’s close enough.

    Food for thought: another method is set up a case to have just slight neck tension. Set your intended bullet in the mouth then load & chamber that round. The bullet will hit the lands & be forced into the case. I’ve both seen, & done that before myself and measured against other methods, with only minimal divergence. The bullet driven into the lands only a couple thousandths.

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    Thanks again Dave. I gave up trying to drive the pin out and put my bolt back together. I will just make a modified case for my Hornady LNL OAL gauge and get close enough with it.

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    I had the same problem a few years ago when swapping bolt heads to change caliber. I wanted to salvage the components to use in the replacement PTG bolt head. Never did get it out. Changing Harris bipod feet, I was able to push the pins out using a punch press. It was awkward and required four hands to maintain punch alignment, but it worked. Maintaining alignment on a bolt head is more than I can manage. Maybe requires a jig of some sort. The downside to abandoning the effort is that sooner or later, the ejector recess hole will collect enough crud that it will reduce it's travel, and need to be cleaned out. It takes a while, but I'm always surprised by the amount of debris that's in the spring and recess.

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    I am not sure how old the rifle actually is but I bought it from an acquaintance who said he had only fired 23 bullets through it. He also gave me the full box of empty casings, another box with 3 fired casings and 17 factory loaded bullets and another full box of 20 unfired bullets so I believe him. I shot another 50 rounds through it just for barrel break-in and zeroing the scope, etc, so it has a total round count of only 73 so far. I didn't note any crud in it so I was surprised I could not get the ejector pin out.

    I may try again in the future but I am going to S. Dakota on a prairie dog hunt in 3 weeks so it is time to move on. I ordered the tap & drill kit to make my own modified casings so I can use my Hornady LNL tool to find the lands....or something close to the lands anyway.

    Thanks again.

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    With the head properly supported, level & using a short, hardened punch, (so it won’t easily bend), will likely make for a successful job.

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    I have not revisited the ejector pin removal but on an interesting side note, I found that the throat in this .204 is so long that I can't hit the lands anyway. I seated a bullet long (the minimum recommended depth of 1 caliber - .204") into the neck and chambered the dummy round and it never hit the lands. From what I understand now, this is not all that unusual for factory barrels in .204 cal.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Thing View Post
    I have not revisited the ejector pin removal but on an interesting side note, I found that the throat in this .204 is so long that I can't hit the lands anyway. I seated a bullet long (the minimum recommended depth of 1 caliber - .204") into the neck and chambered the dummy round and it never hit the lands. From what I understand now, this is not all that unusual for factory barrels in .204 cal.
    Ability to touch the lands has much to do with bullet length and profile. A 35 grain bullet will not reach out as far as the new Berger 55 grain.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    I didn't even know Berger made a 55 grain bullet in 20 cal. I don't plan on shooting anything over 39-40 grains in the .204 and I can't hit the lands with those.

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