Reply With QuoteJust threaded on. You need either a compression wrench or you can use maybe a long screwdriver, or rod thin enough to go through two of the Port holes, and use as a lever to turn the Brake.
Not new to Savages, new to forum. I have a 110 Haymaker and have found it exceptionally accurate and a quality firearm. Not to enamored with the stock muzzle brake. Anyone have experience removing the stock muzzle brake?
thanks
Just threaded on. You need either a compression wrench or you can use maybe a long screwdriver, or rod thin enough to go through two of the Port holes, and use as a lever to turn the Brake.
I've removed/replaced quite a few AR muzzle brakes and use a MAGPUL BEV Block. It locks into the barrel lugs and secured with a vice. Any torque is directly to the barrel lugs.
For the Haymaker, I could put it in my Tipton Ultra Gun Vice but am debating whether it's best to take the stock off first. If it's not on too tight, probably won't be an issue. Not sure I want to apply much torque to action and stock.
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
You can leave the stock on if you rather. I always take mine out of Chassis when working on, but it’s up to you. I also use a barrel vice. As for removal difficulty, they vary. Some come right off, some take a bit of effort. Being a newer rifle, it shouldn’t be terribly difficult to loosen. Let me ask, do you simply wish to remove it & leave the threaded end? The threading is 11/16-24, which is a bit oddball size. But there are other Brakes & thread protectors in that size if you so choose.
I believe I have an 11/16-24 threaded end cap sitting around. May tinker with another style brake but debate the effectiveness of a brake for a 450 bushmaster. We're not talking a high velocity round using slow burning powder. I would bet the majority of the powder is burned by the time the bullet leaves the end of the barrel. Some brakes are more effective than others, just on the fence for the 450 bushy.
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