Reply With QuoteSinclair?
Not made for preload and I know some folks think that's the only way to go.
The chassis on the 110 BA stealth chambered in .308 is an MDT LSS chassis. Basically I either have mlok rails on it for a bipod swivel to mount a bipod. I think utilizing the MLOK slots will be more sturdy than the sling swivel. I recently put on a custom shilen bull barrel that is very heavy. I was previously using a Harris bipod but it’s not study enough for the heavy weight now. I’m looking to get accu-Shot Atlas bipod, either a bt69ns Model but also leaning towards the BT72ns more now based on the wider stance it has which I hear is better to stabilize a heavier weapon. I was wondering if anyone had any insight on the best mount options for the 17s size “lever mount” for sturdiness for the those 2 atlas models as I need a very sturdy bipod now but the one thing I don’t necessarily care for on the atlas is the more preload required compared to the Harris. Does anyone else recommend another bipod that will be extremely sturdy as I’m doing prone or bench shooting. I also need around 7-12” of height
Sinclair?
Not made for preload and I know some folks think that's the only way to go.
Here’s what you do… Order some 2024 or 7075 Billet Aluminum, Titanium rod & hardware & 4mm Carbon Fiber plate. Then design & make your own for a whole lot less $$!
Seriously, the prices on those Bipods are such a turn off to me. Honestly a Versa-Pod with Spigot mounting gives just as good support for much, much less money. But in the two you are looking at, the BT69ns seems the better option as it’s a 7”-12” bipod.
Keeping an eye on this thread. I have just been using a Harris on my Stealth in 6.5 Creedmoor. Whatta Hobby!
Semper Fi
Sgt USMC 66-72
One thing I can say, if your stock/chassis has a short firearm, you will benefit from using a Spigot style adapter for your Bipod. There are Bipods sold with them, and you can purchase Spigot adapters. But they are pretty easy to make. The Spigot puts the bipod out further in front. By doing this, you gain stability. It’s just common geometry & mechanics.
I made my Spigot about 6” long. But there are some 3-4 times that length. The picture below shows how I made mine. It locks in the bipod via clamping turn screw.
That was the second one I made. Here is the first which was much simpler. Just a piece of Aluminum attached to the Chassis firearm and then had a Picatinny rail screwed to the bottom of the rail.
Nice bipod Dave! Has given me some ideas.
Also reminds me of childhood. I wanted a bipod for my .22 bolt gun. There just weren't many around and the money I had I spent on bullets :) So, I got out some scrap wood and made one. It was really a tripod with the front leg adjusting the height.
Appreciate that Charlie. I decided long ago I would never spend Hundreds of dollars on a bipod. Same with a Rest. When you get right down to it, these incredibly expensive Bipods & Rests are just fancy platforms/holding fixtures. You could just as easily stick a couple bricks under the rife with a sandbag! Or scrap wood, like you mentioned Charlie. But what can we do….we like nice things. And nice things cost money. Pretty much why I learned to make things, LOL! A Bipod made of Billet Aluminum, Carbon Fiber and/or Titanium would cost several hundred $$. I made one for a fraction of what these high priced Bipods sell for.Originally Posted by charlie b
But I digress, sorry.
Agree. Quite a few times now I wish I could have kept my 12x36 lathe and small milling machine. I made a ton of parts for my motorcycles and other stuff.
Even more I wish I still had the stash of metal. Had access to a 'junkyard' at the school of mines here :)
Why does the top picture seem to have 2 different size tubes?I made my Spigot about 6” long. But there are some 3-4 times that length. The picture below shows how I made mine. It locks in the bipod via clamping turn screw.
That was the second one I made. Here is the first which was much simpler. Just a piece of Aluminum attached to the Chassis firearm and then had a Picatinny rail screwed to the bottom of the rail.
Dave,
For those of us who don't have thousands invested in metal working tools and also don't have the skill to use them as you obviously do, purchase is our lowest cost option.
I am one of those who uses a purchased Sinclair F-Class bipod (actually I have two) that cost just over $200, 18 years ago.
Those bipods, coupled with a good rear rest, is all I need to shoot pretty tight groups off a bench, and considering that I have used them to shoot 60,000 rounds, I guess they were a bargain.
If I was a bit younger, I would also be shooting prone, but at almost 80, I don't easily get down on the ground to shoot any more.
Dave, what does it take to get a bipod like this?One thing I can say, if your stock/chassis has a short firearm, you will benefit from using a Spigot style adapter for your Bipod. There are Bipods sold with them, and you can purchase Spigot adapters. But they are pretty easy to make. The Spigot puts the bipod out further in front. By doing this, you gain stability. It’s just common geometry & mechanics.
I made my Spigot about 6” long. But there are some 3-4 times that length. The picture below shows how I made mine. It locks in the bipod via clamping turn screw.
That was the second one I made. Here is the first which was much simpler. Just a piece of Aluminum attached to the Chassis firearm and then had a Picatinny rail screwed to the bottom of the rail.
How heavy did you make your gun? I've seen some very heavy guns work well with a harris- (an actual harris and not a Caldwell or cheaper knockoff. ) The mrad we were shooting had to be 16-18 lbs as set up and no problems from the harris- but make sure you get the notched legs and not those friction lock turn wheel setups.
Atlas makes a nice bipod- and MDT has some cool ones but they are costly. It just depends on the features you are looking for- personally I hate the panning feature in bipods and only want the option to tilt left to right and then be able to lock it down.
Like what? The picture above is just a inexpensive Harris copy. I simply made my own Spigot mount to set it out further. Here’s my thread on that. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...h-rifle-(Pics)
The first picture, with the Carbon Fiber/Titanium Bipod is a custom I made from scratch. This thread.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...nch-rest-Bipod
I agree; on both points. My rifle is 16lbs and it was actually OK on a Harris copy. Real Harris would have been more steady. I also think panning on a Bipod is useless. The Custom Bipod I made only tilts. Also, the legs are fixed in place & adjustable for length only. They don’t rotate upwards for storing. Super rigid! I set up up only to index tilt left & right on the Spigot then locked with an adjustable clamping lever. (Replaced the thump screw turn clamp as it would hold tight enough.)
I would use the mlok slots and go with a pic or arca mount. If a bipod for u is set it and forget it pic is fine. If u do any prs type shooting arca is the way to go. On my PRS rifle I run a Atlas Cal, it's very rigid and takes the 22lb weight of that gun no problem. For my ELR gun im looking at a accutac but may go with a Atlas super cal. I haven't decided. But with any Atlas u can't go wrong but I like the Cal alot better then then bt10 or the other version of that bipod.
If you have the money a lot of guys moved to the ARCA mount that bolts to the bottom of your chassis handguard.
https://mdttac.com/m-lok-arca-rail/
Combine that with an atlas, Harris or a MDT CKEY POD and you will be soaring with eagles. Hanging with the turkeys is ok too. I try to do a little of both.
I like the way David was thinking when he decided to mount his the way he did. There are few American options for that though.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Egad! Those MDT's cost more than my rifle.
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