Wondering what is the difference between the target sear and the standard accutrigger sear?
The Target Sear has a punch mark in the lever arm. Other than that, can’t say there’s any real difference. I would say maybe the angle of the let off surface, but it’s made with the same steel in Stamped fashion. Perhaps more care is taken when the edges are prepped at the Factory.
I really wish Savage would sell the Target accutrigger to the public, it really is an underrated trigger for sure. I own 8 Savages and 3 with the target accutrigger, would love to have it on all of them.
Newbie question... and just purchased my 1st Savage.
I was just looking at the trigger/sear on my rifle and was wondering...
How does this edge stay 'defined' over time ?
Its stamped steel...hardened I would assume, but stamped steel just isn't the same in my mind. Wouldn't this have the possibility of wearing down or even chipping ?
I know its not a custom bench rifle, but was just interested in the design.
The parts are case hardened. That is why I I want to make my own that are Through Hardened. But yes, like anything else, the edges DO wear. They don’t chip but I do see them marred with age. They are kept fresh by dressing (stoning) the surfaces. Of course with case hardening, they can only be dressed once really. (Precisely why I want to do Through hardened). However, the nature of the parts being what it is, wear occurs quite slowly. It takes many thousands of rounds (Trigger Pulls), to showing discernible wear. Even if dressing the surface below the case hardening into the softer metal will still take quite some many rounds to mar the metal again.
This is no different than any trigger on any other firearm.
Thank you for the reply and info. Makes sense.
I like the trigger, it breaks crisp, but adjusting the pull weight lighter, (if using the rifle for bench rest precision) becomes a tricky.
Dave, I thought there were three Accutriggers - Standard silver blade (recommended for settings of 6 to 2.5 lbs.), Varmint or Target silver blade (recommended for settings of 4 to 1.5 lbs.), and Precision Target (red blade) that can be set down to 6 oz.
The one you pictured is a Precision Target Trigger.
I don't have any standard triggers (mostly on hunting models, I believe) because all but one of my Savage 110s are either Law Enforcement or Varmint models, so I can't speak to the settings of a standard trigger.
My early model LEs, 2008 and 2013 vintages, and some intermediate 2015 models came with Varmint/Target triggers set at around 2.5 lbs. The newer models, 2019 vintage 12 FVs came with Varmint/Target triggers set at 1 lb. 10oz. and 1 lb. 14 oz. respectively. The most recent model 110 Varmint came with a Varmint/Target trigger set at just about 2 lbs.
Perhaps, Savage has changed their approach to setting triggers at about 2 lbs. in more recent times.
My 12 LRP has a Precision Target trigger and came from the Factory set at 10 oz.
I can't speak to the sears - so I defer to your impressive knowledge of the Accutrigger's internals.
You got it right CF.. Regular, Varmint & Target. Here are the part numbers for each one. You can see the parts differences. Although when it comes to the Sear & Trigger, the only differences (besides the indent on the Target Sear), are possible Sear angles & maybe trigger shelf height. But I’ve never measured. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...r-Part-Numbers
Anyway, when I set up a Standard Accutrigger, it’s better than the Target Accutrigger anyway.
The standard sear has a 15 degree relief angle while the target sear has 25. The only way to measure that is with a 20x optical comparator. They are hardened all the way through.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
So I’m wondering what you’re referring to as a 15 & 25 degree relief angle? You don’t mean the only angle visible on the bottom of the Sear, do you? As I’ve outlined before, the Surface that catches the Trigger shelf (hooks) is the flat, backside of the Sear as shown in the second picture. It’s very clear in the close up photo to see this surface against the Trigger shelf. And the angle on the bottom surface of Sear rides in that groove, then along the ramp portion of the trigger after release.
This is the back side of the Sear and the actual surface which catches the Trigger shelf. All of maybe .015-.020” of engagement anyway. Reason the Accutrigger has virtually no creep. (And also why it needs the Safety blade, LOL!)
Close up showing the mating surfaces. It’s really the TRIGGER which has a relief angle.
And here we see a close up of the Trigger “shelf”, and then what looks very much like a RELIEF angle on top.
That pretty much mirrors my experience with the varmint/LE trigger, trigger on my 12FV was 1.5lbs out of the box and I haven't touched it. Although Savage claims the PTA adjustable to 6oz, neither of mine were reliably stable at anything under 8oz, I set both to 10oz and have had no issues since doing that. I really like them.Originally Posted by CFJunkie
I would assume, by saying relief angle he is refuring to the angle at the bottom of the sear. The one facing away from the shooter.
[QUOTE=Andrew863;512881]I would assume, by saying relief angle he is refuring to the angle at the bottom of the sear. The one facing away from the shooter.[/Q
I believe Dave stated in the photos that its the Trigger that has the relief angle. " It’s really the TRIGGER which has a relief angle" In the picture, it looks like there is a angle where the safety blade slot starts.
There does look like there's an angle at the bottom of the sear, facing away from the shooter as you mentioned.
I could be wrong. Hopefully Dave will clarify. I like this kind of stuff.
The Sear’s do have an angle at the bottom. Pretty sure that’s what was meant. From all the many I’ve seen, never really could discern a proper “single” angle anyway. And again, if you look at the function, it’s the flat surface on the back of the Sear which engages the Trigger shelf surface. The bottom angle however, does set the Sear/Trigger Shelf surface contact depth on the Accutrigger though.
The Trigger does also have what could be called a Relief, or more accurately, an “Escape” angle just above the Trigger Shelf. Regardless, it’s not all that important. Again, every one I’ve seen is prepared horribly from the factory! Tooling marks, uneven surfaces (which is poison to a trigger’s function.) When I set them up, I stone whatever angle is at the lead of the back surface contacting the Shelf. I make them perfectly even and polished. NO DREMEL! I prefer Triggers around 2lbs or so. I’ve said many times though, you can have two triggers, BOTH at 2lbs, and feel completely different! Having excess creep, grit & overtravel makes any trigger feel horrible! My 2-2.5lb trigger is a pleasure to squeeze off.
I have a Model 12 LRP and I love the trigger. Breaks crisply and consistently. To me it is better than the two SSS Savage triggers on my other two Savage rifles.
OooooooCarful my friend. That there is Blasphemy to a number here who think of that trigger as the holy grail, LOL! Not among them, but a heads up to prepare for rebuke.
Thank you for confirming and the info Dave!
I can confirm 'horribly from the factory' Savage is replacing mine, so I have nothing but good things to say about the customer service/warranty.
The only hassle is that I need a FFL to contact Savage and and order the parts. Savage will only send (trigger and sear) to a FFL.
Yes… that is a bitter fact of which we are all aware. They USED to ship trigger parts directly to patrons with a signed release form. However, our new SUE-happy, Anti EVERYTHING GUN, Socialist heading country has put a stop to that! And as far as liking their CS… just give it some time. You’ll come to hate Savage “Decision Makers/Management” as those of us in the know do.
Now you have to drag me into it. If you like the accutrigger better than the SSs trigger You have not learned how to adjust them.Ooooooo
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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