I’m glad I was able to get the action and barrel out of the stock but the stock is "Probably" shot. Pillar bed job was great I checked with blue good contact etc. Talked to a couple guys at work that have bedded numerous rifles while my acraglass was on the way. Prepped with liquid wrench oil(video from owner of boyds himself said works better than the agent it comes with) didn't try the freezer but don't think it would have helped due to epoxy sticking to action. Cracks end at end of chisel and other side is easily seen. Possibly thinking about epoxying back together. Gun is a 308 started as a 16 xp. Was ecstatic to have a nice stock and bed. The crack that goes down past the dowel is the one that bothers me. Looking for Thoughts on trying to salvage??
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No stock expert, but I would get another stock. Next bedding job use proper release agent.
I have done several bedding jobs with standard release agents and no issues .
Make sure you plug every hole and crevice in the action because that compound will get into any crevice it finds
It does appear the bedding compound stuck to the sides of the Action (did you bed all the way up to the edges of the stock inlet?), which caused the stock to split. I’ve Epoxy bed items in many, many different projects and used 2-part Epoxy to bond all types of materials. I even laminate my own Carbon Fiber. I’ve never heard of using Liquid Wrench as a release agent. I agree with above… next time, use a proper Release agent. If you want to do the home brew type, use shoe polish or Vaseline. Wax based products work better than “oils”.
Sure you can epoxy epoxy the cracks. But you need to make certain epoxy is forced completely through the separations. And being it’s such a thin profile on the sides, it may not hold regardless. If it were me, I’d look to getting another. Perfect excuse to upgrade again!
First off, welcome to the forum and sorry for your difficulty.
BTDT. I had a rifle with a 'glued in' action. Not intentional, but, it worked well. Made for a very stiff setup :) Mine was also from bad prep.
Stock 'fixing'. If on a tight budget, that one looks like it can be fixed. It doesn't go through the wrist and is not down in the lug area. Some good clamps and epoxy will do it. Get good epoxy, not the 5 min kind. I'd use the epoxy resin made for laminating. You need 30 min or more to allow yourself time to get the stuff in all the way through the cracks and then properly clamp it. Practice it without the epoxy first to make sure your setup works well and the clamps hold well. Also make sure you don't get any in the trigger!!!! FWIW, I have a double barrel shotgun that had the stock snapped off at the wrist. Used good epoxy on it and it has held up well for over 1000 rounds.
Of course, best is to get a new stock. As Dave said, new upgrades are fun :)
Best release agent?? Clear shoe polish/wax!! Me? Thinking I'd be releaving the bedded area and re bedding AFTER I glued (SUPER GLUE) the stock sides together. Won't know till you try.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Thanks all for the replies. I am led to this forum for most of my questions for the 16 from Google, I wish I could've joined after a successful full bed job. I am quite young but in tool and die and went to college prior to be a woodshop teacher. Figured I deal with 2 part pig putty all the time for similar mold/mastic to work things to. We use johnsons paste was at work and it seems to be a go to for many guys. I will most likely end up getting another but possible try to repair and use as a practice stock. On the way to the range shortly to shoot some rifles I didn't eff up.
I had all the action holes/mechanical lips and small indent in lug filled with clay. The action machining on the bottom is "fair". It has basically ridges all the way around as if a lathe had a .100 per rev feed. I did not put clay in the ridges. Maybe that hurt too.
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PAM cooking spray is another good release agent. Being a spray it easily covers any hard to reach nooks and crannies as well. And cleans easily.
The cracks on your stock may not look good now, but atleast they’re on the sides and not near the pillars. You may be able to glue them and rebed the action.
So did you get the action out or no?
I spent some time fitting one of their ATOne stocks to my 10/22 clone. As it had a rear action screw, it required a bit of work getting it fitted. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably choose a different stock as the ATOne wood seemed, even though laminated, rather brittle and inclined to splinter out, although it looks fine after a few repairs. I think it's hard to get quality wood these days for cheap.
Pdog, action is out, just finished tape clamp and wood glue on the small splinter side. It's the deep one that bothers me truly. Being I've worked with wood and metal a good amount I think a small drill bit(hobby shop type) and drilling vertical through the stock where cracked to put piano wire or threaded rod then epoxy back together for better mechanical bond. Hate to think I started messing with this gun in order to love it as much as my xbolt, happened to take that one to the range today and I think I'm going to be a few hundred more deep before its as smooth and nice hahaha.
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Funny you mention the reinforcing. I've done that with a gun stock (and repairing furniture) before, only I used hardwood dowels. You could probably use 1/8" in that portion of the stock. Each one means a LOT of extra surface area for bonding. I am not that good with a hand held drill so I set it up in a jig on the drill press.
Yeah, the Savage bolt just is not as smooth as some others.
Ive threaded and used a small diameter brass rod before. Trick is drilling the hole exactly right at the beginning of the crack.
12F, McGowen 6.5x284 1-8" twist, Nightforce 12-42x BR<br />BVSS, McGowen barrel, 22-250 1-9" twist, Nikon 6-18x<br />16 FHLSS Weather Warrior, Sinarms 257 Roberts, Pentax 3-9<br />Stevens 200, 223 bone-factory-stock, Nikon 3-9x<br />Scratch-built BVSS, LW 243 1-8" twist, Viper 6.5-20x50 mil-dot
All I can add is I hope the repair goes well . Most of my disappointments enrich me with knowledge. Good luck.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Charlie I've made numerous pieces of wood furniture cabinets and used splines dowels wafers etc. I'll have to look for small od wood dowels or turn down on my dad's wood lathe. I turned my pillars myself outta aluminum on metal lathe hahaha. I think the bedding job alone will strengthen the crack but I want as much as possible being I'll be the one behind the gun. Also I'll most likely get a muzzle brake on the ol girl before attempting to fire with the "repaired stock ". Less recoil may be my friend but also I'm 145lbs so anything above 270 packs a punch to me
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I am going to remember this one :)Originally Posted by Robinhood
AT, I figured you would know about the dowel trick. I like using similar materials when making a repair like this. I also realized that a laminate is a composite material, with resin making up a lot of the space. Kinda like furniture grade or aircraft grade plywood.
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