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Thread: Barrel Change for Model 16 Weather Warrior

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  1. #1
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    Barrel Change for Model 16 Weather Warrior

    I picked up a used Model 16 Lefty Stainless Weather Warrior for my son in .243 and I have to say it is a good shooter. It has the aluminum Accustock and it shoots most any ammo at .75 MOA. I spent countless days at the range trying to get a good load for my Sako .243 and we just went with that load for his Savage .243 which shoots great. Now I plan to use a 280AI for myself and I'd like to upgrade my son to a larger bullet and it was advised to me that I could rebarrel his Savage with a 7mm-08 or .308. We are non-lead out here and with the twist rate, the .243 is limited to about 85gr mono.

    Are there any good sources for used stainless model 16 barrels in 7mm-08 or 308 (or even 260 Rem)? Probably need a barrel nut and recoil lug too- the stock barrel nut is smooth so guessing it might get marred upon removal.

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    And NO guys…. It’s not ME! Just an incredibly coincidence I share with another person having a fantastic first name is all, LOL!


    To my name-sake “doppelgänger”, there are a plethora of barrels to choose from. The entry level barrels are EABCO, and a step up from them is ER-Shaw. Then there are several in close price range to each other, like Criterion, Shilen, X-Caliber, Preferred, McGowen, and probably a couple others. These are in the $400-$450 range. These are followed by the tip-top shelf barrels (by price over $500 typically), which are Cut Rifled like Bartlein, Brux, Kreiger… Oh, McGowen just started doing Cut Rifling for under $500. Not bad.

    I suggest plugging those names in Google followed by “Savage Prefit” after each brand name. Decide on the pricing you want to stay within and research the companies in your allotted price range. It’s likely one of the barrel manufacturers will stick out to you; “strike a nerve” in you, so to speak. They are all good and can all deliver exceptional accuracy. While most top shooters consider Cut Rifling to be best, I do believe Button Rifling holds the most wins. (I could be wrong, but it’s close regardless) I for one don’t believe the rifling, being Cut, Button or CHF and being 4-groove, 5-groove, or 6-groove, really gives any discernible advantage on its own merits.

  3. #3
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Dont forget the 6.5 Creedmoor.:)
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Dont forget the 6.5 Creedmoor.:)
    I was first thinking of the 308 based cartridges, but assuming the 6.5CM has the same bolt face then sure that would be a good candidate too. Kinda nice to have the 308 though; because I could work up a light recoil load when bigger bullet is not needed.

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    I’m a 260Rem fan myself. Part of the reason was to have an endless supply of cheap brass. I did mine when 6.5cm was very new and still hadn’t become the fan-boy favorite. I’m still very glad I went 260 because I don’t use any factory ammo. Every round that goes through it is one of my reloads. I’m getting ready to re-barrel by summer and planning to stick with 260, but going to the 260 Ackley Improved. Wish I had done that from the start, but oh well.

    Yes, 6.5cm is the same bolt head. It’s another good short action choice. BTW, what will be the primary use for this rifle? Oh, and before you start buying parts, check out our Barrel Nut article. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...el-Nut-Options But more important than which barrel nut is using a good quality Recoil Lug.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    I’m a 260Rem fan myself. Part of the reason was to have an endless supply of cheap brass. I did mine when 6.5cm was very new and still hadn’t become the fan-boy favorite. I’m still very glad I went 260 because I don’t use any factory ammo. Every round that goes through it is one of my reloads. I’m getting ready to re-barrel by summer and planning to stick with 260, but going to the 260 Ackley Improved. Wish I had done that from the start, but oh well.

    Yes, 6.5cm is the same bolt head. It’s another good short action choice. BTW, what will be the primary use for this rifle? Oh, and before you start buying parts, check out our Barrel Nut article. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...el-Nut-Options But more important than which barrel nut is using a good quality Recoil Lug.
    I just removed a 260 barrel that is surplus to me now.
    I had a 260 barrel...still do. The factory chamber was too short for seating them where they should be. I consistently was blowing out the primer pockets trying to get me to the speed that the 6.5 creedmoor achieves. This is also what the smith that chambered my barrel told me. I found that if you have a throated chamber then then the longer Savage SA magazine helps, and you can seat them longer. Generally if you look at what the majority of 6.5 shooters go with, it is rarely the 260. The 260 is a great round but why go with that when you can have the creedmoor without having to ream or turn the .016"neck wall thickness, or have a non SAAMI chamber. the 260 is a choice. It just hasn't proved itself to be the right choice in a new configuration.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Don’t forget to check the classifieds on this forum. I noticed some 308’s and 6.5 CM’s listed.

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    Basic Member Hdskip's Avatar
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    I just removed a 260 barrel that is surplus to me now.
    You are only limited by your imagination

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    A simple mark on the bottom of the action and the rear of the recoil lug with a sharpie would allow you to realign the lug, but I guess I’m a little too late to the party since you have it apart already…lol

    You can probably still mark it by finding the bottom center of both.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdog06 View Post
    A simple mark on the bottom of the action and the rear of the recoil lug with a sharpie would allow you to realign the lug, but I guess I’m a little too late to the party since you have it apart already…lol

    You can probably still mark it by finding the bottom center of both.
    I assumed there would be some locating pin. However, your idea of marking before disassembly gave me an idea. I just reinstalled the receiver without the barrel and then the recoil lug drops in and I can make the corresponding mark on both pieces. --Thanks.

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