Reply With QuoteI'm mulling over getting rid of the wedge and bedding the 110BA. I like to clean my guns to death and this wedge business befuddles me.
I was on the verge of selling my Savage 16 because of bedding inaccuracy. Tried following instructions without using torque wrench: Didn't work. As last resort I bought one, and re-bedded drawing the first screw to 10 inch lbs., then the second. Kept this rotation up 10 lbs. at a time until reached 40 inch lbs. Shot twenry rounds and repeated the process. Five shot groups went from 2+ inches to slightly less than 1".
I'm mulling over getting rid of the wedge and bedding the 110BA. I like to clean my guns to death and this wedge business befuddles me.
I did this very same thing this last weekend. Went to a new cabalas and was exiting with out a purchase when I walked by some tools and saw a tourqe wrench. Purchased wrench. Loosened both screws, retightened 10 inch at a time to 40. It did tighten the groups up when I shot it Sunday. Much more pleased with purchase of my 22-250.Originally Posted by possible
AHSGA,
I also found out that even with a good break in Savage barrels tend to suck up copper. I use sweets and clean it thoroughly after each range trip .
Checked my Accustock and there is no wedge screw I have a Gen 2. Makes no difference I am getting ready to put a Choate on it. Found one that fits the DMB and the new style bolt release.
What exactly did you find, and where??
Thanks for this Thread. I have on order a Model 16 FLHSS SKU 18168 in .243 Winchester, it is suppose to be here this Friday. This rifle, besides being left handed, has the Accu-Trigger & Accu-Stock along with being stainless Steel. I have two ft. lbs torque wrenches but no in-lb torque wrench. So I am going to Lowes and buy a inch-Lb torque wrench today, I quess that I need a range of 5 - 75 in-lbs? I also assume since mine will be new, that it will have the generation II stock.
Thanks for all input,
Marcus :)
Some are calling the newest ones the Third Generation Stock. e.g. short action, center feed, Rear action screw under the bolt release and no "Wedge". I bought a new Model 16 FHVSS a couple of months ago. You can tune them to shoot with MOA accuracy but they are a real pain in the rump to get there. Fine tuning loads to the gun while simotainiously tuning the action to the stock is a challange that seems to never end. After market premium stock options, are very difficult to find if you have the hinged floor plate in the new gerneration models.
Good Stock makers have stopped trying to keep up with so many dink changes.I personally don't think they are worth the effort, especially when you can spend a couple hundred more and purchase a Reming 700 Sendero that comes with a H&S Precision bedded stock and shoot better groups all day long than the Model 10-16 group. I can copper clean my Sendero in about ten minutes. Takes about 30 minutes to do my Savage. I guess you just can't put lipstick on a pig.
Wish it wasn't so, but they are what they are.
My Rifle came in yesterday afternoon, the Model 16 FLHHS in .243 Cal. Mine has the ACCUSTOCK version 2 without the Wedge. I decided to do something that I normally don't do and that is to read the manual. I did purchase a F.A.T. Torque wrench (10-65 in-lbs) clutch slip type from Midway for $55, I then found a 1/4" click Torque Wrench 20-200 in-lbs from Harbor Freight for $19.99 plus shipping, this one has not arrived yet, the FAT has.
The Savage instructions for the ACCUSTOCK version 2 without Wedge states to mount it the same way as you would a std stock. The version 2 only has 2 action screws, it states to install the screws with just a few threads touching, to stand the rifle on its butt and to slowly tighten each action screw separately until they are starting to get snug, to the use a torque wrench and tighten to 40 in-lbs, I did slow tightening about 10 inch-lbs until I got to 40 in-lbs. I cleaned it this afternoon and had planned on taking it out to shoot, but it was 96 degrees in the shade, so I will take it out tomorrow morning and aligned the scope and break the barrel in. I will post the accuracy I ended up with later. Besides factory ammo I do have a few reloads I will try. This is my second Savage, I purchase a Model 11 in 243 and decided that I wanted one with the Accu-Stock, so the Gun Shop I purchased the Model 11 from found someone to buy my model 11 enabling me to purchase Model 16 with Accu-Trigger and Stock. Thus why the few reloads that I have.
Marcus :)
I have gen 2 6-5 284 long range hunter it will shot under 1/2 inch two or the times then string up vertically I mean right straight in a line. I shot a 7 shot group.it walk up hill one bullet hole at atime.I would wait 4 min between shots. I took the barrel and action out of stock then set it back in the recoil lug does hit first because it sits and rock back and forth after tightening per instruction the bolt felt sticky sliding back and forth loosened rear screw the action freed up. but still shoots vertical groups at times. whats my solution this gun wants to shot just needs help.
Marcus 40,
Sounds like you are on the right track, getting the action bedded up evenly on the platform. (Essential with the Accustock). Not letting the barrel heat up will also help establishing its basic accuracy. Breaking in the barrel the slow 20 shot/clean method with JB Bore Paste and Sweets also helped mine a bunch by making it easier to keep clean between range sessions. mine also took nearly 200 rounds to find its favorite loads and settle in.
Thanks for advice on warm barrel and cleaning I haven't tried JB yet might have to though. I did break-in barrel cleaning every five shots and letting the barrel cool. I used to clean for copper with sweets now I use patch out and butches bore shine I follow up with hoppes like the smell and i think it is good neutralizer and rust preservative. Yesterday I took the gun out clean cold barrel shot two shots to check point of impact. Then shot three for group h-4831sc 48.5gr. temp. change took vel up about 50fps from the last time i was out it shot about .4 at 2880 fps. Then I had to make new cases so i fire formed 15 rounds though the chrony in about three hours time 140gr machking with 46.5gr. hybrid first seven avg 2878 second 7 2890
with one a lot higher at 2930 group size 1.2 this max load for good case life above 75 degrees. Will clean gun and recheck point of impact when i get a chance to get back to the range. I bought this gun for hunting so I need good vel and point of impact to stay reliable. Still not sure that I don't have a bedding problem. The nut behind the wheel has to be considered also. Thanks for your help and coments. Good Shooting!
IMO,
The action should not rock back and forth when tightenrd up. If it does the recoil lug may not be letting the action be supported evenly by the bedding base. E.g the up and down movement of the action in the stock should be controiled by the aluminum bedding rails , not the recoil lug. This would definately cause group inconsistency in a vertical string.
Thanks for the advice I think I'll take it to a gun smith in the reno area and see if they can fit it up a little better. That bolt binding a little when tightened worries me a little can't help but feel the bed and action are fighting each other a little bit they might have too take alittle off the recoil lug not sure but if they do that I think the front action screw might need shaved also. I'll listen to all advice just started shooting savage rifles a year and half or so bought f-class in 6.5x284 the first one went back before I got to the range as I cleaned it before shooting noticed the cleaning rod quit spinning about half way down barrel. there was six inches of rifling missing. Had a new gun in a week and it shoots very well. I then bought my daughter the savage 7.08 youth model with 120 gr bullets get about 3/4 in group with 45gr varget good med size game gun. Muzzle brake and I put a kick ease on it. It came with plastic butt recoil pad my daughter is just tiny no meat on shoulder heck i didn't like it much either but now it's sweet to shoot. She out shoots her boy friend and his friends so they don;t let her shoot targets with them any more. That's all right more time I get to spend shooting with her.
Just purchased a 10FCM. Haven't shot it yet, but will provide report when I go to the range.
Today I was giving it the once over. Taking it apart, cleaning, putting back together...you know the drill.
The forward action screw is under the magazine release latch (Have to hold the latch back while tightening/loosening) and rear screw is under bolt release. (have to pull the trigger and then hold the release button all the way to the rear while tightening/loosening as well.) ::) --> eyeroll!
I can deal with it, but could use a third hand when I am trying to re-torque the stock. Any tips for making it a little easier to reassemble by myself?
Thanks in advance.
So a first generation Accustock has three mounting bolts and a second generation Accustock has two mounting bolts. Is this correct?
Yes, although I have not heard the "generation" nomenclature before.
I have a question about the tightening of the screws on the accustock.
The instructions refer to the "forward action screw, middle action screw, rear action screw". My question is, is the forward action screw the same thing as the wedge screw?
Thanks,
Kenny
Yup.
Merry Christmas!
Except on the wedgeless Accustock.
I have a first gen. stock M-10 PC with the action wedge. Can I take the 'wedge' out and still get the accuracy I'm getting now? Or will the accuracy 'go south' without the wedge?
My instructions do not have a torque spec for the non-wedge accustock.
any of ya'll have this problem?
I've got two model 16's, one in 250 sav and one in 300 sav. both of them showed up with the accutrigger set at around 5 lbs. so the stock came off of both of them to adjust it down where its supposed to be in the 1st place >. when you take the action off the stock, the little wedge thingy pops out and you have no idea what to do with it until you find this sticky thread in the savage forum.
so then I put the gun back together according to these instructions (I've got the torque wrench). 1. seat recoil lug screw to 10 lbs/in, back off 1/2 turn, 2. magazine screw 10 lbs/in, 3. rear action screw 10 lbs/in, etc, until all are up to 40-45 lbs. this is all done with butt of the gun on the ground so that recoil lug on action rests against accustock bedding, and the wedge can tighten 'er in there.
and here's what the tang looks like, no matter how many times I try:
raised up out of the stock with a gap. here's what my model 10 PC, which I have never removed from the stock because they adjusted the trigger right from the factory >
tang is flush. no gap.
maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill, but it seems like I cant get the dang thing back together the way they had it from the factory in the 1st place. anyone else experience a similar issue?
The general consensus here seems to be that the tang should be free floated. So your condition does not seem (IMHO) to be a bad thing.
Did you take any pictures of the 16s before you removed the stock? If the Model 10 PC has the tang touching the stock, I would relieve the stock under the tang so that it is free-floating.
Last edited by thomae; 12-03-2012 at 02:08 PM. Reason: readability
did not, thomae, but now that you mention it, I suppose it is a better idea in theory for it to be bedded on the recoil lug and not have strain on the rear of the action. I'm reasonably sure, though, that the tang was sitting more flush than that before I disassembled the rifle.
no real way to compare before/after either, since I cant get either gun back to the "before" condition. Have not yet shot the .300 savage, but I wonder about the .250. Have quite a few rounds downrange with it (I would say in the 200-250 range). It seems to do 2 shots together, and then the next an inch or more off. it's accuracy is not bad, it seems to keep everything in a 2" group on 5 shot strings, but I just wonder if it's not bedded correctly.
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