Reply With QuoteOK, let me ask you this. Does your trigger look similar to one of these?
Now, most importantly, does it have these THREE screws in these locations?
If not to either question, please explain what is different.
Hello all.
I am new to the Savage Shooters Forum but not new to Savage Firearms. I have a model 110 that was manufactured in May of 1995. That is all the information that I can find on it. Savage Arms says they donÂ’t have any information on my gun model and serial number. Savage Arms sent me to Cody Firearms and they are a museum that only keeps firearms records from 1895 to 1940. I am wanting to lighten the trigger pull. Right now the pull weight is at 7 lbs every time I measure it. I would like to get around 3 lbs. I have read and watched many videos and there are multiple ways this can done. I just donÂ’t know if I need to proceed with one of these methods or just have an entire new trigger assembly changed out. I have removed the stock and took several pictures but am having trouble figuring out how to upload pics to this post. Any help would be great greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance. Any information on how to upload a picture would be extremely helpful also. Thank you.
OK, let me ask you this. Does your trigger look similar to one of these?
Now, most importantly, does it have these THREE screws in these locations?
If not to either question, please explain what is different.
Hello Mr. Hoback,
i have looked over the pictures in your post and compared them to my pics and trigger assembly and seem to find some sort of slight difference in each of them. Could you please try and give me instructions on how to add a picture to a post? I can get a picture in the post but if it’s extremely large. Thank you
Easiest way to add a pic is go to https://imgbb.com/ Upload pics from your device. Then click on the image & Copy the “BBCode” link. Then just paste that saved link here. Very easy. No signing up, no email or personal info. It’s a 100% open site. The big thing is does your trigger have that front screw on the trigger, just under the Sear?
I wonder though… is this by any chance yours? This is the older type of trigger.
If. your trigger looks like the first pic in Dave's post, that is with the L shaped round wire, get a wire from a buzz bait and cut it to match the contour of the heavy factory wire. Second, if it has the screw under the sear engagement, you can adjust down to about 3#.
Or I can send you one of the bar springs I make. Or, if you want to do it, I can just send you the wire I use. It’s very good quality Spring wire. In the picture below you can see how much thinner the Springs I make are compared to stock Savage Bar Spring.
Yes, you have the better(newer) 3-screw trigger. Follow the link that Jim posted in the duplicate thread you made after this. If you are able, you can greatly enhance the trigger’s feel by polishing the mating surfaces. (Not with a Dremel, and only do this if you have experience.) And as I said, you I will gladly send you one of the lighter Bar Springs I make, or just send you the wire to make one yourself. I know some people much rather do everything on their own. I am certainly like that, LOL!
After doing polishing(if you decide), and add the bar spring, follow this link by Jim, like he posted in the duplicate thread.
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ent-Procedures
Or… as I offer to all members, young an send me the trigger & sear, and I would be happy to polish the surfaces & add the new Bar Spring & send it back to you. Then you simply reinstall & follow that link for setup. I do this for members here at no charge.
Hello Mr. Hoback and Mr. Baker,
I just want to make sure i am correct about this. You said I had the newer version (three screw trigger assembly), which I’m not sure why I would have a newer assembly since my gun was manufactured in May of 1995 but that’s beside the point. So since I have the three screw assembly, can I just go to step 2 of the link y’all posted and adjust the “trigger pull weight adjustment screw” until I get three trigger pull weight down to around 3 lbs. or do I have to also change out the spring? Step 2 in the link says I can adjust the slotted screw with the hole down the center counter-clockwise to the desired trigger pull weight. It also says just to be careful not to adjust it too much because it could cause accidental discharge of the weapon with is common sense but common sense ain’t so common to some people. Lol. Also, I apologize for creating duplicate posts in the Model 110 section. Like I said, I’m new to the Savage Shooters page but not to Savage guns. I also own a Savage MSR 10 Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor. I just put an entire new trigger assembly in it. Looking forward to hearing your replies. Thank y’all very much for taking the time to reply back with such valuable information.
You have to change out the spring! Old spring will be adj down to the point it loses reliable constant pressure and not reset part of the time. when this happen gun will fire simply by closing the bolt! Lighter spring maintain light constant pressure.
Polishing gets rid of the gritty drag feeling as you slowly pull the trigger.
Front screw will increase or decrease the amount of travel before sear is released.To little travel and gun may go off when bumped. If you turn the front screw you also have to adj the rear screw that is under the safety slide to keep it working properly.
Nothing complicated if your mind has a bit of mechanical aptitude.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Ok, I’ll show them a different way.
This is an “Older” 3-Screw Trigger assemble.
This is a “Newer” 3-Screw Trigger assembly.
They are both 3-Screw Triggers, yet have very clear differences. Your rifle is from 1995, but is itself newer
than a 110 Rifle from 1985.
Yes, you can simply adjust the trigger as it is by following the link Jim first posted. You don’t need to replace anything. However, the 3-screw is highly regarded as it can be set-up to achieve very high performance & a consistent trigger pull by those who have experience with it. That said, nothing is required. You can follow the link & adjust the trigger as is. Note* Adjust carefully, then test, retest & TEST AGAIN, before firing with live ammunition. Setting the trigger too light can result in a slam or bump fire.
Mr. Hoback,
This is probably going to be a stupid question but I just want to make sure I’m looking at the right thing. You previously sent me a picture of the “trigger spring” that you make compared to the “trigger spring” that comes factory. When I look at the picture and then look at picture of the entire trigger assembly you sent as well as as my trigger assembly, I’ll not visually seeing what I would consider a “spring.” It just looks like a small metal bar that is “L-shaped.” I say this because I have read previous articles from other sources that say you can start by snipping about a half round out of the “spring” to lighter trigger pull. Are you familiar with what I’m referring to in regards to snipping portions of the spring and testing until you get your desired trigger pull. Also, could you possibly send me a picture of the trigger assembly with maybe an arrow pointing to what you are referring to as the “trigger spring?” Thank you again for all the advice.
Not a stupid question Budman.There are different kinds of springs. You are likely thinking of the traditional coil spring, which can be set up for either compression or tension. A bar spring acts by being anchored at two points then bent to store energy. Think of a bow shooting an arrow. Same concept. Or, are you familiar with leaf springs on older vehicles? Again, same concept as what these are for. There are countless articles online about springs & their function which can explain things in better detail than I can. But if you look at your trigger while it’s out of the stock & pull the trigger, you can see what happens to the bar while doing so. It bends (compression) but when you release it returns to its former position.
Hope that helps. BTW… I’m David… My father was Mr. Hoback, haha.
In this picture I circled the entire Bar Spring.
And this is just the Bar Spring itself. See the right angle leg at one end? Now look how that fits into the adjustment screw on the trigger housing.
Yes, That is the "Spring Steel Wire" for that style if trigger. Other styles has a coil spring, This one dose not.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Actually most all springs are made of “spring steel wire”. Techniquely speaking, this is a Leaf spring, as that is the type of action it performs. However, it’s not shaped as most leaf springs are. It’s shaped like a Torsion spring, but doesn’t twist like they do. So most people have set to call it a Bar spring, or Wire spring as that is what it is.
Yes sir as far as David instead of Mr. Hoback. That’s just how I was raised in Mississippi. Yes sir, no sir, and yes ma’am and no ma’am. I always was taught to call people Mr. and Mrs. or Ms. I can still hear my daddy to this day if I did not use those words. Just a point of respect. So what should my first step be, Adjust the screw a little at a time and test the trigger pull and and test the trigger by bumping the stock on the ground or tapping the sides of the gun with a rubber mallet and see if I can get the hammer to fire accidentally or should I just go ahead and change out the spring right off the bat?
Follow that link and see if you are content with it in stock form. If not, go from there.
Yes sir. Thank you Mr. David for all of your help. Are you sure I’m not bothering you with my questions? Just please let me know if I am. I will try the screw first and see where that takes me. One more question please, I do believe this is the first time that the stock has been removed from the barrel. The outside of the barrel needs a good cleaning. I have all the tools/brushes that I need. I just need to know what would be the best solution to use to clean the outside of the barrel and all around the trigger assembly? Thank you again for your time!
Of course not. Never a problem.
Not really important what you clean the barreled action & trigger group with. I very typically wipe things off with Acetone, then wipe with an gun oil laden microfiber sheet. Regular soapy water works well, but make sure to dry & oil especially using anything with water. Some use only Break Free CLP. (I don’t worry about that).
Mr. David,
Do you happen to know if there is ma certain name or Model for the specific trigger assembly that I sent you from my gun?
I’m not quite sure what you mean Bud? You didn’t send me anything. Do you mean the pictures you posted of your trigger? If so, I know every part has a specific part #, but I wouldn’t know those. As far as the trigger assembly, no. Nothing specific to it other than being a 3-screw trigger. These were the best triggers Savage made.Originally Posted by Budman6
Hey Mr. David,
I’m sorry I was more specific in my last post. I was referring to the pictures I sent. I didn’t know if the trigger assembly as a whole had a name for it like they do now. For example, a Timney, rifle basix, ruger, etc.
Just Savage 110 3-screw.
I did the wire change out and was very please with new trigger pull. Terry smooth.
Then I went to hobby lobby and got .039 music wire and replaced the triger spring. I works great. I do not have a pull scale, but it is noticeably lighter. Gonna cancel the ordered timney. $99 price difference. Wire was $1.07 and have enough for 20 or so triggers..
Here is a side. Y side of the spring wire:
this is from my build thread.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...ild-help/page4
[IMG][/IMG]
I keep some made up on hand, incase someone wants one
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks