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Thread: 2023 Season build

  1. #1
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    2023 Season build


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    This build will be based on a MDT Oryx stock. Off my mill is the
    new 3" wide fore end and railed.....
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Turning a 7 lb, block of 4061 into a new flat rider butt stock. It's milled and
    configured to use the original cheek riser, and butt pad. lower section can be
    filled with lead shot.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Dog and pony show mock up. I installed an aluminum block inside the magazine
    well. The block is used to accommodate the center screw on a PTA action.

    Parts coming in weekly. Blank barrel and tuner is in house, and waiting on scope
    rings for the March scope.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Nice looking work, Fuj

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Nice looking work, Fuj
    Thanks, Charlie....

    Rifle will be used more for the short course type of matches, more specific for
    UBR and the Tack Driver match's. Going to chamber it my 284-ELF wild cat I've
    been developing and tweaking for the past 2 years. I have been shooting in UBR
    Unlimited, so rifle weight is not a problem. The Tack Driver match's require you
    to be under 22 lbs, So I have some breathing room to use a heavier barrel and
    optics. As for Optics, the MarchX with the new Super ED flourite glass is something
    in it's own league. I own a Vortex GE and Night Force Comp. The NF Comp has been
    my go to scope. The Vortex went back in the box, and will probably sell it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mark-mtr-2-reticle.jpg   MX_MTR-2.JPG  
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Nice looking work, Fuj
    It sure is!

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    Hey Gary, this is like that last one, when you sent me these pics to post, (below.) This Chassis extension arm & Stock you mill, is this like your “patented” work..I mean, like your “calling card” design for rifles? I like it… Looks great man! You ever thought of making these to sell? Or are you more like me, just like the doing of designing, machining & building but not interested in a monetary venture. Also, just curious… did you mean 6061 Billet? I ask because 4000 series, that I’ve ever been aware of, is typically used only as filler. The suppliers I deal with don’t supply it in Billet plate or bar style. I do use 6061 quite often for many, many projects, but when I’m building something of note, I always use either 7075 or 2024 for their strength & stiffness characteristics.

    Again though, I do very much like your design.


    Actually, I think we somewhat share some aspect of design in our mind’s eye, so to speak. This was a stock I made a couple years ago on my last Chassis. Although I will say your’s is quite a bit nicer. (Parts machined & added to the buffer tube) Your’s is a

  8. #8
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Dave.....This new build is is #2. First one was torn down for more machining and
    tweaking. The aluminum in question is called "Bar-rectangle". Since the day's of
    online supply, I've used "Speedy Metals", "Metals Depot", and this butt stock piece
    came from "Online Metals" only because they had the best price and shipping at the
    time. I think they go up to 3.5" thick to 12" wide. I may look at having my finalized
    parts going thru a 3D printer, but there would be no plans for resale. In the meantime,
    I finished a make over of my Bald Eagle rest I've used for years, and depending on
    the match, I'll be using my Rod Zilla joy stick rest. I still prefer a knob turner for close in.

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    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Yes I’ve used all those in past. “Bar-Rectangle” is just a shop name for easy classification to online buyers. Bar-rectangle, Bar-square, Bar-tube, etc. It’s very likely 6061 you have. It’s the most widely used structural Aluminum. Especially in small quantities to hobbyists. It’s also the 3rd strongest, right behind 7075 & 2024, in that order.

    If you haven’t checked them out, try https://www.midweststeelsupply.com in the future, if you happen to need material. While I don’t use them exclusively, more often they’ve been best price. And they don’t charge a “special fee” for cuts of smaller size.

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    Fuj, I don't thing those are strong enough

    Nice machine work. Are those linear bearings in the vertical posts of the second one?

    These kinds of threads make me wish I had kept my bigger lathe, milling machine and laser. But, then I'd just wish I had a CNC.

  11. #11
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Fuj, I don't thing those are strong enough

    Nice machine work. Are those linear bearings in the vertical posts of the second one?

    These kinds of threads make me wish I had kept my bigger lathe, milling machine and laser. But, then I'd just wish I had a CNC.
    Yes, they are linear bearings. As for keeping machinery....When I closed the shop
    and retired, I kept a mill and a small engine lathe, I wish I would have kept the Harig
    6/12 surface grinder, but was paid a premium for it. We installed an 11 horse roto-
    phase in my sons garage to keep everything 3 phase. It's now play time....

    I had posted this a few years back but pics were lost in the shuffle. My wild catting the
    past 5 years has been based on the 284 Winchester. The "ELF" I will chambering is my
    BR version. Pic shows the standard 284 then my SA284, and the shortest is my ELF.

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    Pretty cool.

    I had my father-in-law's 12x36 and a small chinese end mill. He was Brown&Sharpe trained. A lot of his work was for Shakespeare and Bendix back in the 50's. I learned a tiny bit of what he knew. We did a lot of gun stuff before he passed. Eventually we moved to a place I couldn't keep them. Sad day for me. I used to make a lot of motorcycle parts too.

    The 284 has always seemed like a nice case to work from. The little BR version is interesting.

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    I believe the 284 Winchester was the most highly advanced case ever made. It was released in 1963 and was so far ahead of its time. The shorter, wider case… the negligible body taper… a 35 degree shoulder! These characteristics were unheard of at the time. No wonder it wasn’t more popular. Makes me laugh when I first heard about this “revolutionary” NEW case design that Hornady developed… a shorter case, with no taper and a 30 degree shoulder! (I guess making it 35 would have been TOO obvious!) What’s worse is when I see people regurgitating what they read… about this “not so new” cartridge case design that lends to better accuracy. Uhhhh… this case was made 60 years ago! 60 friggen years! Ain’t nothin’ new no mo folks…

  14. #14
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    I believe the 284 Winchester was the most highly advanced case ever made. It was released in 1963 and was so far ahead of its time. The shorter, wider case… the negligible body taper… a 35 degree shoulder! These characteristics were unheard of at the time. No wonder it wasn’t more popular. Makes me laugh when I first heard about this “revolutionary” NEW case design that Hornady developed… a shorter case, with no taper and a 30 degree shoulder! (I guess making it 35 would have been TOO obvious!) What’s worse is when I see people regurgitating what they read… about this “not so new” cartridge case design that lends to better accuracy. Uhhhh… this case was made 60 years ago! 60 friggen years! Ain’t nothin’ new no mo folks…
    Wild catting has been a huge hobby for me an for a good 40 years or more.
    In my younger days, 6.5x55 and Schmidt and Reuben cases were the bulk
    of my experimentation. I would buy model 600 Mohawk actions for $50 bucks
    and start something new. My most infamous one was to go beyond an Ackley.
    I took the Schmidt and Reuben case and blew it out to 45 degrees and necked
    it down to .257. Even the .257 Bob could'nt keep up with it. Chucks were turned
    inside out at over 300 yards when hit broadside.....Yeah, the 284 is one of those
    cases that lends itself for projects. That center case in the pic is my SA284. Its
    exactly the same length as the 308, 7-08, and 243 family of cartridges. With it's
    35 degree shoulder and being wider, the SA284 simply dwarfs the 7-08. With the
    now defunct Emron 4451, I could hit 2830 fps with the 190 gr A-tip topped out,
    but acurracy node at 2805.....The ELF started out about 2 years ago. I used ruined
    cases from the SA284 project. Just needed to shorten them below the damage. This
    cartridge showed promise this past season, so it's getting a complete new set of
    clothes.

    UPS email shipping alert showed up. My rings and level should be here today or
    tomorrow. Chambering is done, along with the shouldering and head spacing.
    I'll spin it off so to get to work on the muzzle end. This will be a bit different for
    the installation of the Ezell tuner. It's not a simple cut to shoulder and thread.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Fuj, do you make your own reamers too? Father-in-law did that once for me but I never got the urge to try it. We were working on a way to make bullet molds when he passed away.

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    Just wait for the “7mm Creedmoor”. It could be renamed the Creedmost! I bet it will have no problem getting those 190gr pills past 2900fps Fuj’. And do using less powder powder of course! At least that’s what many on-liners will claim.

    I’m being facetious in case you’re wondering

    Seriously, I do like your SA284 Fuj’. If I was a Wildcatter, that’s one id look to. It’s about perfect. 308 size, but takes full advantage of its space due to the shoulder(like an Ackley). And just a tad wider than an Ackley case, but not Magnum. It’s the perfect blend of case capacity to bore diameter for long range targeting without any overbore. Bet the barrel lasts a long time vs the performance.

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Fuj, do you make your own reamers too? Father-in-law did that once for me but I never got the urge to try it. We were working on a way to make bullet molds when he passed away.
    Not for chambers. Once I have what I'm looking for , I send out about 3 dummies and have
    a reamer made. In the case of the shortened 284's, I use a .240 throat SAMMI reamer and
    short step it. for the ELF though, I still have to hone in the base for a good fit. For the SA284
    the SAMMI reamer is perfect. I have made reamers for pistol molds mainly .358 and heavy.
    I think I still have one in one of my Kennedy's I never finished. I'll see if it's still there.

    And Dave.....I have about 1400 rounds on my current Brux 30" heavy varmint. I'm pulling it'
    though for an Lilja 3 groove I have an itch to test with those !90's. I like to start the season
    with a fresh barrel and not have one fall off on me. For the round count, the Brux has minimal
    fire cracking, and the throat is not as burned out as I have expected. I'll probably set it back,
    redo the crown (every 500 rounds for me) and put it away in the safe.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

  18. #18
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    The Mail man was good to me today. The 34mm Steiner target rings and Hollands
    scope level are here.


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    I'm officially jealous :)

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I'm officially jealous :)
    I'm officially broke....
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Roflamo

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    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Back on track and getting a little rushed since my first match is in less than
    2 weeks !! My lathe is down for a few bearing replacements, so I had good
    friend, fellow shooter and gunsmith do some threading for me. On the Douglas
    4 groove barrel is an Ezell PDT tuner. With this done, I'll be clearing off the bench
    for the final dedicated build. Weather has been bad, so I hope to at least get my
    load work done and play with the tuner at a latter date. Stay tuned. (Pun intended)

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    I have always wondered how well a tuner works and how you use it.

    I would assume you work up a load to the vel you want and then adjust the tuner to get the node correct. True?

    So, from before adjusting to tuner to getting it 'in the groove', what is the change in group size that you see?

    Good luck at the range!!

  24. #24
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I have always wondered how well a tuner works and how you use it.

    I would assume you work up a load to the vel you want and then adjust the tuner to get the node correct. True?

    So, from before adjusting to tuner to getting it 'in the groove', what is the change in group size that you see?

    Good luck at the range!!
    Quite a few guy's and gals I shoot with have been using tuners the past few years. It's new to me, but I made
    the jump. Seems pretty straight forward since you are basically changing the length of the barrel .001" at a time.
    I spoke to Mike Ezell in depth which he prefers all customers do. In a nut shell, your work up your load before
    adjusting the tuner. Once you find your accuracy node, you then adjust the tuner to take it out of the node then
    adjust further to bring it back in. He showed me a target where the groups opened up and the vertical went low,
    ans further adjustment showed a steady increase of the node coming back in with the shots being higher on the
    target. He just says that the barrel timing is best to have the shots high on the target then low.....I'll be out to
    the range this morning to get sighted in and the first batch of work ups. Tuner will stay screwed in until I find a
    load for this barrel. No matter what you still have to do powder and seating tests the old fashion way.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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    Thanks Fuj.

    I wonder why it changes high and low, not left or right. Might go back to the theory about the nodes enlarging the barrel, changing the vel of the bullets?

    Sometimes being an engineer sucks. I ask myself too many questions that have no way to get answers :)

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