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Thread: Model 10 Trigger Guard Won’t Come Off

  1. #26
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    Yeee-UP! You gots a 3-screw there ya do! I can do fine, fine things to those. Set up properly those are the finest triggers Savage makes. Modification & proper set up they perform on par with pretty much any aftermarket trigger. Good stuff!

  2. #27
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Yeee-UP! You gots a 3-screw there ya do! I can do fine, fine things to those. Set up properly those are the finest triggers Savage makes. Modification & proper set up they perform on par with pretty much any aftermarket trigger. Good stuff!
    It looks like a 2 screw to me. the 3 screws were older.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    It looks like a 2 screw to me. the 3 screws were older
    EDIT: I know for a fact, the OP’s picture is a 3-screw. If a trigger has the Sear adjustment screw, it is by definition, a 3-screw trigger.

    Ive always called these 3-screw. In the picture, the rear most screw is just difficult to see because it’s adjusted all the way up. Here is his pic blown up.


    This is what I’ve always called a factory 2-screw. It does not have the Sear adjustment screw. But I could be wrong. Still.. I can do nice things to that trigger & make it quite nice!

  4. #29
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Yup that's how I have always heard them referred. 1 screw is just safety engagement, 2 screw is safety and over-travel, and 3 screw is sear and safety and over-travel engagement adjusts. If its got the sear screw then it's a 3 screw. Maybe there is some odd-ball out there I have yet to encounter idk but yes OP trigger is the 3 screw.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  5. #30
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    I have since had a chance to look at my inventory. I have both the old and the new style 3 screw. You are correct David. I missed that one.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  6. #31
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    Yes, they look different. The older 3-screw, like this, just had that roll pin, to hold the Bar-spring. The new ones were very nicely milled steel with a portion of it’s own to hold the Bar-spring.

  7. #32
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    Sweet! I’m becoming more enthused with this find every time I learn something new.

  8. #33
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    So you know.. I offer to all. If you can remove the trigger & Sear and send it to me, I’m happy to polish the mating surfaces to perfect 90% and install one of the Bar springs I make, and install Titanium shims I also make, to eliminate side play. I do this for members here at no charge.

    Here is one of past 3-screws I did. Take it apart & clean everything.


    Next I polish the mating surfaces. I use a homemade jig & ceramic water stones so the surfaces come out perfectly flat. I’ve said this for many years.. a Dremel is NOT friend to polishing flat trigger surfaces!



    Here is the thicker/heavier stock Bar Spring over the much lighter Spring I make. These I make from new .043” spring wire approx, on a spool. And below that, the Titanium shims, laying on top of one of my 6000grit Japanese Water Stones.



  9. #34
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    Dave! That is extremely kind of you! When I get to the point I’m ready for that, I’ll hit you up! I’m assessing the barrel at the moment and considering new stocks. Any suggestions on a good precision stock that doesn’t break the bank, I’m all ears. I’ll also search the forum for that.

  10. #35
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    Look at Boyds stocks. Also Choate stocks. They are the two lower priced & more “ready fit”. Other than these it’s likely either one of the many different Chassis, or the much higher priced Carbon/Kevlar & Fiberglass stocks. Which besides costing $400, $500+, also require fitting & bedding.

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