Reply With Quoteextractor? that just slides to the side with a spring and ball under it. Or are you referring to the ejector pin beside the firing pin hole?
I have a Savage 110E manufactured in Sept of 1987. It a 7mm and my extractor is broken and I can't get it apart to see what broke, so I'm looking to maybe replace the head and all the extractor parts. If I understand correctly, it appears Savage changed the bolts to a small firing pin in 1999.
I haven't seen any replacement heads that have a large firing pin. If I buy a new bolt head with the small firing pin, does that mean I should buy a new firing pin and the retaining pin for that? Or, is it better to just drill out the firing pin hole on the small bolt head and and will that work okay? Is there anything else that I should be aware of?
I'm not a gunsmith or anything. I do have access to a drill press. Just want to get my gun to extract spent casings again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
extractor? that just slides to the side with a spring and ball under it. Or are you referring to the ejector pin beside the firing pin hole?
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Welcome to the forum. This sticky is a good resource for all kinds of things related to the bolt guns.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...-Article-Links
Just to be clear, is the extractor broken or is it just not extracting the case? I would guess it is the second since that is a more common issue.
As RH mentioned, the extractor simply slides back and forth in the slot. It can be pushed out with a screwdriver. BUT, there is a ball bearing and spring behind it. Don't lose them :)
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...or-Disassembly
The common 'fix' is here
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...t-Ball-Upgrade
the ejector beside the firing pin hole. I tried a punch to remove the pin and I eventually broke my punch. I took it to a friends house and he tried. We broke a few more punches. We got the pin to move as much as about 1/16" or so, but that was it. Then the last punch we used broke off in the hole and now the hole is filled. I thought maybe we should drill it out, but my friend says if we do that we might not get the hole straight and it might ruin it. He said to get more punches and try to pound it out. Thats why I was thinking about just buying the parts to replace the whole head of the bolt, but when I contacted places like Midway USA and a few others, nobody could tell me how to identify if I need a small or large firing pin hole. Thus, I turned to the forum for assistance.
Originally Posted by charlie b
I guess its my ejector that is broken. When I look down the hole next to the firing pin, I can see the rod down inside there. The little thimble that is suppose to be pushing above the bolt face isn't there. I can see down in the hole and I can see a rod down there about 1/4" approx. I got this gun from my deceased grandfather. I never fired it until now, but have had the gun for about 12 years. I don't know how long its been broke. I don't know if someone messed with it before and put it in wrong or what as it seems weird that I can see parts down there. I'm thinking thats why I can't get the pin to hammer out. I think someone forced it in wrongly in the first place. Why else would that still be in there and the top piece that is suppose to hold that in there and of which the pin goes though is NOT on the top protruding out of the bolt face?
Ok, so ejector it is.
I suspect you have tried some penetrating oil on the ejector and pushing on it to see if it just jammed in place. Maybe someone else did that and jammed it against the retainer pin and that's why the pin is so tough to get out.
I'd try some gentle heat and small taps on the retainer pin to see if that would work. Last resort would be a drill but if it is a hardened pin that might cause more problems. And, yes, most bolt heads come without parts.
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ll-and-Removal
Note that the some pins (probably yours as well) only go in one way.
I did try some penetrating oil. I let it sit in it for a couple days and kept spraying it. I did try a little heat once, but just for a short period of time as I didn't want to ruin something else. I can get the whole bolt apart except for the head of the bolt. There was one side of the retaining pin that was smashed down and those the head was bigger than the hole. We was trying to push it from the opposite side. We even went so far on the 2nd day once we got it pushed out about 1/16" we ground the head off and try to push it in to see if that would work. So, we would punch it in and out numerous times trying to get it to come out. Could only get it to move that 1/16" maybe slightly more. Its def being stubburn. I called one gunsmith near me that I have used in the past and he said he didn't even want to work on it because too often he gets an older gun like this and can't get parts and thus he waste time and money so he isn't even interested in working on it. He just told me to contact Savage and another parts dealer.
If you want, you can send the bolt to me & I’ll get it squared away. I don’t charge anything. You just buy the parts it might need. (Extractor, pins, etc.) Just like helping members where I can. I know you’re new so you don’t know me.. but everyone else does, LOL! No, seriously though. Charlie & Blue Avenger both know I do this stuff.
^ That's a good offer...
If you are already planning on buying the new parts then you are not out anything trying to drill the retaining pin out...
I wouldn't drill the new bolt face for a larger firing pin- you would also have to drill that cross pin that holds the bolt to the bolt body because the firing pin runs through it. I'm not sure about this- but I think that pin is one of the reason that savage went with a smaller firing pin- because when they drilled the bolt head pin big enough to let the firing pin move through it, it did not leave much material and the cross pin would break (and now I have hit my limit for the amount of times I can use "pin" in a reply).
Only 10 times.
I do, But I let you offer your services! Not my place to volunteer others for work they donate.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Oh no, I didn’t mean volunteering… just that you guys know me here is all.I do, But I let you offer your services! Not my place to volunteer others for work they donate.
Wow, there is a blast from the past for me LOL. Crazy thing is I found that bolt head in my parts box the other day.
jlvjr, soak that bolt head in Kroil for a couple of days. If it is crud build up in the ejector bore that will certainly help loosen it. I made a pin for driving out those ejector retaining pins from an old drill bit. I cut the flutes off and just used the straight shank part of the drill bit and it has worked well for me for years when struck by a ballpein hammer. Just a thought to try. Also I would certainly take Dave up on his offer if needed. I am sure he can remedy the situation. Worst case scenario I am a machinist of 20 years experience, I'll take a crack at it if need be :) . Also another thought is just go ahead and buy a new head and pin and parts and save that one. I have kept a couple with stuck ejectors for single shot builds. It extracts the case and leaves the brass right there waiting to be plucked out and another loaded, I hate chasing brass and if I'm building a single loader anyways then it woks out great.
Good luck and keep us posted.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Lol! That was a great little article from yesterday-year Boots. I think I’ve RE-posted the link to that article probably ten times! Not even realizing until just now YOU wrote it. Oh that’s funny.
Glad I could give ya a chuckle LOL.
Yeah back before my divorce I was on here a bunch and wrote a few posts answering some common questions like that. So many people would ask so I would just link the post rather than type it all out almost daily LOL. Short time later Jim converted them into articles for me. There are probably a ton of old threads with a link to those articles, it was just easier and better way to explain it LOL. Sad part is in my time away from here I have forgotten few things, need to knock the rust off LMAO
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Dave Hoback
Oh thanks. I can't get Midway USA, Brownells, nor a couple other places to respond back to me with an answer. I asked if I can just buy a the head made for the smaller pin and then do I just need a new firing pin as well as the pin to hold the firing pin in place + of course the extractors to get my rifle back up and going properly again. Do you by chance know if I go with a new head designed for the smaller firing pin hole if I can just buy the firing pin and holding pin as well and just replace everything on the end of the bolt? I thought about sending it to you, but just want to figure out if its worth all the shipping or should I just buy it all new and replace it.
Yes? LOL!
Its up to you. If you want new, you’ll need the Bolt Head. https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...gnum-bolt-head
The Bolt head rebuild kit: https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...head-parts-kit
And Firing Pin. https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...sembly-112-116
Edit: Sorry, I forgot you’ll need this, the Bolt Head Retaining Pin.
https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...-retaining-pin
Shipping is less than that from me to you. I know because I do this quite a bit… doing trigger jobs & or her free minor services on parts. Might be worth it for me to just take a look at it. But your call of course. One good thing about new, is you’ll never have to worry about parts not matching up again.
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