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Thread: torquing barrel nut

  1. #1
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    torquing barrel nut


    I replaced my barrel today using the wrench Northland sells. I saw torque setting of 35 to 40 foot pounds posted by a few that had replaced barrels. I used 2 different torque wrenches and can't even get a click at 10 pounds, and I feel it's very tight. Is there a spec when using these wrenches that is different than what i have been reading. BTW, tried 2 different torque wrenches and both acted the same.

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    That’s odd. Please don’t be offended as I don’t know your background, but how comfortable are you with DIY tasks with firearms and with using a Torque wrench? Many torque wrenches don’t really give a very audible “click”, more like they just “give” a bit. It’s actually not even very perceptible at 10lbs. Very easy to just push past the “click” or “give” as it is. Try a very slow soft touch when hold the wrench’s head with your support hand & push the handle slow & soft. Don’t just barrel ​into it.


    On a side note; you don’t need to worry about going tighter. Many of us here who have been working on & building Savages for many years, Torque the Barrel Nuts much MUCH tighter. I tighten mine to 75ft.lbs. And I’ve heard of others going higher.

  3. #3
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    They torque them to 70 or 75ft-lbs at the factory if I remember right.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Super Moderator Blue Avenger's Avatar
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    As long as it is snug + your good. No tuning involved with torque, just keeping it together. Give your wrench a lite tap with a hammer if you question if it needs more. 3/8" wrench would be more sensitive if your going to do enough to warrant more tools.
    .223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor

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    As long as it is snug + your good. No tuning involved with torque, just keeping it together. Give your wrench a lite tap with a hammer if you question if it needs more.
    +1

  6. #6
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    There are countless posts and articles by rifle builders that claim anything less than 75 ft/lbs has the potential for point of impact shift. Some big names go as high at 90 ft/lbs. I am one that will go 80-90 ft/lbs at 90* to the wrench. I like experience and the factory is normally who designs this stuff with their specs. All of us do what makes us feel comfortable.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  7. #7
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    From the factory, the barrel nuts are GORILLA TIGHT. Ask anybody that had broken one loose for the first time.
    Nothing fancy needed to secure the barrel. As mentioned, nut wrench gets a TAP with a steel hammer, double check the headspace and go shooting. Same with breaking the barrel nut loose for the first time. Don't pull, SMACK THE WRENCH. Steel on steel gets the job done.
    Torque wrench is for cylinder head bolts, main bearing caps and lug nuts.
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

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    I guess I got bad ones. Didn't seem to take that much to get mine loose, either the Axis or the 12. Getting the nut off the barrel (once it was unscrewed from the action) was a bit difficult with all the grit on the threads. I ended up cleaning up the threads then unthreading the nut.

    I put mine back on without a torque wrench, but, it was 'really tight' with the 1/2" bar.

  9. #9
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    I can break my barrels loose, (after the first time) swap to another, set headspace and put it back together in less than 10 minutes. No torque or action wrench needed, ever!! NEVER had one come loose!!
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

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    i tap wrench once hard.good enough.

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    Team Savage pdog06's Avatar
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    so that’s the gorilla we’ve all been complaining about over the years of trying to remove some factory barrels….lol

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdog06 View Post
    so that’s the gorilla we’ve all been complaining about over the years of trying to remove some factory barrels….lol
    I think that must be the new gorilla. I took a 112V apart from the late 70's and his cheater bar is about 1/2 the length my 6'6" 250lb frame needed.

  13. #13
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    You know it's tight when you split a nut.....Any of my bench guns, I never torqued the nut
    over 50 ft. lbs. But long gone is the nut. All my barrels are shouldered and at 40 ft. lbs.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

  14. #14
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    I still love the Barrel Nut. Especially with these nuts I use now. I actually really do like the look of them. I find it visually appealing. LOL!




  15. #15
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Dave.....I ordered one of those nuts from the maker in Canada. I just thought to
    try it on an action I switch barrels a lot for fire forming my cats. I was disappointed
    on how sloppy the threading was. They sent me a return tag, and it went back. As an
    after thought, I just had them refund the money. It's a shame because generally it's
    one hell of a nut. Oh.....It did'nt fit my 2 standard wrenches.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

  16. #16
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    Hmm. None of that on mine TV. They even gave me the wrenches with. I ordered one & it was lost in the mail. So they sent me another. Few days later the first one showed up. They told me to keep both. Good CS..good business.

  17. #17
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Hmm. None of that on mine TV. They even gave me the wrenches .
    Did you try your standard wrench on the new style nut ?? There was nothing really stated that
    you had to also purchase their wrench. It was apparent that my standard wrench's were too small
    in diameter.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuj' View Post
    Did you try your standard wrench on the new style nut ?? There was nothing really stated that
    you had to also purchase their wrench. It was apparent that my standard wrench's were too small
    in diameter.

    Man! I completely missed this question. Sorry about that Fuj’. Standard wrench works perfectly fine on these Barrel Nuts. The company just makes a wrench also. It’s smaller & red. I didn’t buy it extra. The company just gave it to me free. Their customer service was really good.

  19. #19
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    So who is making/selling those new style barrel nuts? Liking the looks. And the standard nut wrench fits?
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nor Cal Mikie View Post
    So who is making/selling those new style barrel nuts? Liking the looks. And the standard nut wrench fits?
    Mike, that one I use is from International Barrels in Canada. Can’t buy a barrel directly from them, but the barrel nut is no problem. Here is the pretty extensive list of ALL aftermarket Barrel Nuts available. Several of us were discussing them in a thread & Jim put a nice Article together showcasing them. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...el-Nut-Options

  21. #21
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nor Cal Mikie View Post
    So who is making/selling those new style barrel nuts? Liking the looks. And the standard nut wrench fits?
    Mikie.....Dave say's no problem, and I'm saying my two wrenches did not fit.
    Actually the reason I sent it back was, the threads were loose to the point that
    once fully threaded and before tightening, the nut could be rocked back an forth.
    This was all large shank. My particular nut should have never made it passed
    inspection.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

  22. #22
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    Thanks Dave and Fuji. Just when we thought all nuts were the same. I have noticed, it depends on who cuts the barrel threads.
    Some nuts are a little snug but a little off the points and most nuts will fit. I prefer snug than sloppy. After all, they ARE machined.
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

  23. #23
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    Mine is Small Shank. This is the same with barrels. How many times have we seen people come and say their barrel nut won’t screw on the new barrel threads, but fine on the old barrel? And we’ve told them to use sand paper on the the barrel threads. It’s because the sizes are often called 1-1/16” & 1–1/8” for Small & Large Shank. So, 1.062” & 1.125”. But in actually, they are 1.055” & 1.120”, respectively. However, I’ve never heard of any evidence supporting that a slightly tighter or looser fitting barrel nut, lends itself to accuracy differences. Only the overall tightness. The Article Jim did even corroborates this for even using an Aftermarket machined Barrel Nut. They are nicer, better looking & generally better fitting. But does that translate to better accuracy? No, it does not. The barrel to Receiver threading is what dictates how square the barrel is. The barrel nut serves only to lock the barrel in place. So if a nut is slightly loose or slightly tight… as long as it can be torqued correctly, it’s served it’s purpose. While my Barrel Nut was slightly looser fitting than some others I’ve felt, it wasn’t to the extreme that Fuj’ experienced. And my Wheeler wrench fit the nut just fine. The company just sent me the wrench as a kindness. I tighten them to 75ft.lbs. And it is locked in place.

    Oh, the ones I have, once fully threaded they did not rock. They were simply a bit looser threading on. So that, coupled with Fuj’s not fitting the barrel wrenches he had, makes me think he just had a dud. Which they would have gladly taken care of. At least the guy I dealt with, who was one of the owners. Super nice Canadians, eh?

  24. #24
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    I just purchased am Axis in 6.5 Creedmoor (the most cost effective rifle in the rack) as a "donor" action. The Brux barrel is still a few weeks out and wishing to check out my scope setup without purchasing ammo in a new caliber, I decided to install a Steven's barrel in .308. Not only was the nut torqued by their trained gorilla, but they decided to further secure it with a sealant that makes red Locktite seem wimpy.
    I have never had to use this amount of force to remove a Savage barrel.

  25. #25
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Mine is Small Shank. This is the same with barrels. How many times have we seen people come and say their barrel nut won’t screw on the new barrel threads, but fine on the old barrel? And we’ve told them to use sand paper on the the barrel threads. It’s because the sizes are often called 1-1/16” & 1–1/8” for Small & Large Shank. So, 1.062” & 1.125”. But in actually, they are 1.055” & 1.120”, respectively. However, I’ve never heard of any evidence supporting that a slightly tighter or looser fitting barrel nut, lends itself to accuracy differences. Only the overall tightness. The Article Jim did even corroborates this for even using an Aftermarket machined Barrel Nut. They are nicer, better looking & generally better fitting. But does that translate to better accuracy? No, it does not. The barrel to Receiver threading is what dictates how square the barrel is. The barrel nut serves only to lock the barrel in place. So if a nut is slightly loose or slightly tight… as long as it can be torqued correctly, it’s served it’s purpose. While my Barrel Nut was slightly looser fitting than some others I’ve felt, it wasn’t to the extreme that Fuj’ experienced. And my Wheeler wrench fit the nut just fine. The company just sent me the wrench as a kindness. I tighten them to 75ft.lbs. And it is locked in place.

    Oh, the ones I have, once fully threaded they did not rock. They were simply a bit looser threading on. So that, coupled with Fuj’s not fitting the barrel wrenches he had, makes me think he just had a dud. Which they would have gladly taken care of. At least the guy I dealt with, who was one of the owners. Super nice Canadians, eh?
    There is a big difference in the od of the threads being slightly undersized and the pitch diameter being undersized. The 2 are not the same. The pitch diameters on a Savage barrel are based on the nominal(1.0625" and 1.125"). The od is not near as critical.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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