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  1. #1
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    torquing barrel nut

    I replaced my barrel today using the wrench Northland sells. I saw torque setting of 35 to 40 foot pounds posted by a few that had replaced barrels. I used 2 different torque wrenches and can't even get a click at 10 pounds, and I feel it's very tight. Is there a spec when using these wrenches that is different than what i have been reading. BTW, tried 2 different torque wrenches and both acted the same.

  2. #2
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    That’s odd. Please don’t be offended as I don’t know your background, but how comfortable are you with DIY tasks with firearms and with using a Torque wrench? Many torque wrenches don’t really give a very audible “click”, more like they just “give” a bit. It’s actually not even very perceptible at 10lbs. Very easy to just push past the “click” or “give” as it is. Try a very slow soft touch when hold the wrench’s head with your support hand & push the handle slow & soft. Don’t just barrel ​into it.


    On a side note; you don’t need to worry about going tighter. Many of us here who have been working on & building Savages for many years, Torque the Barrel Nuts much MUCH tighter. I tighten mine to 75ft.lbs. And I’ve heard of others going higher.

  3. #3
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    They torque them to 70 or 75ft-lbs at the factory if I remember right.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Super Moderator Blue Avenger's Avatar
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    As long as it is snug + your good. No tuning involved with torque, just keeping it together. Give your wrench a lite tap with a hammer if you question if it needs more. 3/8" wrench would be more sensitive if your going to do enough to warrant more tools.
    .223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor

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    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    As long as it is snug + your good. No tuning involved with torque, just keeping it together. Give your wrench a lite tap with a hammer if you question if it needs more.
    +1

  6. #6
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    There are countless posts and articles by rifle builders that claim anything less than 75 ft/lbs has the potential for point of impact shift. Some big names go as high at 90 ft/lbs. I am one that will go 80-90 ft/lbs at 90* to the wrench. I like experience and the factory is normally who designs this stuff with their specs. All of us do what makes us feel comfortable.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  7. #7
    Team Savage
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    From the factory, the barrel nuts are GORILLA TIGHT. Ask anybody that had broken one loose for the first time.
    Nothing fancy needed to secure the barrel. As mentioned, nut wrench gets a TAP with a steel hammer, double check the headspace and go shooting. Same with breaking the barrel nut loose for the first time. Don't pull, SMACK THE WRENCH. Steel on steel gets the job done.
    Torque wrench is for cylinder head bolts, main bearing caps and lug nuts.
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

  8. #8
    Team Savage pdog06's Avatar
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    so that’s the gorilla we’ve all been complaining about over the years of trying to remove some factory barrels….lol

  9. #9
    Team Savage
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdog06 View Post
    so that’s the gorilla we’ve all been complaining about over the years of trying to remove some factory barrels….lol
    I think that must be the new gorilla. I took a 112V apart from the late 70's and his cheater bar is about 1/2 the length my 6'6" 250lb frame needed.

  10. #10
    Basic Member Fuj''s Avatar
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    You know it's tight when you split a nut.....Any of my bench guns, I never torqued the nut
    over 50 ft. lbs. But long gone is the nut. All my barrels are shouldered and at 40 ft. lbs.
    Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952

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