Need help with Choate stock upgrade....

[blykins]

Guys, I recently bought a new 110 Desert Tactical in 6.5 PRC. Not really impressed with the 2 MOA groups at 100 yards and started digging into quality issues with the stock fitment, which led me to buy an aftermarket stock setup. I bought a Choate tactical stock from an online supplier. It came in Wednesday and I had time to start digging into installation today.

First of all, I bought part number 25-06-01. There were a lot of different part numbers and it's possible that I got the wrong one, but here is what I'm seeing:





That step that I'm pointing to is not allowing the mag well (and therefore the trigger guard) to sit down into the stock sufficiently. I also tried to see how the barreled action fits in the stock and it seems like there's a tendency for it to be high centered.

What am I doing wrong here? Do I need another part number stock?

[Robinhood]

Shot in the dark. Savage has several Bottom metals that require a specific bottom metal. There is the Center Feed(CF) first gen metal frame DBM. A second gen, a hinged floor plate and there is the plastic frame and box cover. And possibly an aftermarket frame for a AI type mag. Knowing what you originally have, is critical for any type of determination. The type of inlet that came on your Choate is for the standard Savage metal drop box. Im am going to look around and see what is going on. Be back in while unless someone beats me to it.

[Dave Hoback]

In the link below you can read this statement. “Will not fit Savage detachable magazine rifles with the Accurate-mag or PTG Bottom Metal that uses the AI magazine.”

https://www.riflestock.com/store/pro...tock-25-06-01/

That stock is for factory ​bottom metal & magazine. Your Desert Tactical uses an AICS mag system.

[Robinhood]

So it looks like your rifle is an Magpul AICS pattern magazine and bottom metal. I believe the stock you ordered is the Metal DBM version. The difference is I don't know. I have a 25-06-01 an the inlet looks different. Make sure they sent the correct stock. Contact Riflestocks.com and see if there is a solution. It may be a simple Dremel fix. I don't know. Hoping someone else has been there......and good luck.--------------------------------------------------I didn't see that Dave has posted but I am betting on what he dug up.

[blykins]

In the link below you can read this statement. “Will not fit Savage detachable magazine rifles with the Accurate-mag or PTG Bottom Metal that uses the AI magazine.”

https://www.riflestock.com/store/pro...tock-25-06-01/

That stock is for factory ​bottom metal & magazine. Your Desert Tactical uses an AICS mag system.

Yeah, I didn't catch that when I ordered it. My fault.

It doesn't look like they offer one that will work with my rifle.

Oh well, thanks for the help guys.

[blykins]

Can someone tell me what options I do have for aftermarket stocks? Would the MDT stock work with my rifle? Magpul?

[Dave Hoback]

Yes, all the MDT Stocks work, & they fit well.

Wall, like Robin said, could just be a little Dremel fittin’. Something I’ve learned messing with firearms period, but specially Savages, is anything will fit you given enough *coaxing. If you have some basic fabrication skills, you can make it fit.

This one fits.
https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage....-Package.html

[Whynot]

What is causing you to think it's the stock? It looks like it has a pretty good chunk of aluminum in it- so with a little work you could probably get it shooting good in the stock you have... unless you want something else.

Are these stocks not well thought of (as far as a factory stock goes)?

[Dave Hoback]

I was thunk’n that myself. But I’ve just taken to answering people’s actual questions. It’s tough once a person has something in their head. Not to mention…he has a Desert Tactical & ordered a Black stock. I don’t believe an accuracy issue was the OP’s only concern, was it?

[blykins]

I was thunk’n that myself. But I’ve just taken to answering people’s actual questions. It’s tough once a person has something in their head. Not to mention…he has a Desert Tactical & ordered a Black stock. I don’t believe an accuracy issue was the OP’s only concern, was it?

Well, there's a couple of reasons I'm switching.

First reason is that I just didn't like the factory stock after I got the rifle in here. Ordered the rifle sight unseen off of Gun Brokers, seller had a nice Thanksgiving discount, I own other Savage rifles, so I just bought it.

Second reason is the fit just isn't good. I can slide a piece of paper around the barrel down to the receiver, but the barrel hugs the right side of the stock pretty hard and it just looks cheap. Actually the fit and finish on the whole rifle just isn't good. End of the bolt was nasty dirty/corroded when I got it, rifle had a wear mark on it from where the factory had inserted/removed the bolt, etc.

Third reason is that the rifle shoots horribly. I've been shooting for the better part of 35 years, plinking, bench rest, USPSA, etc., and there's really no reason why a shelf rifle shouldn't shoot a 1 MOA group at 100 yards with factory ammo. This one shoots at least twice that. Now granted, I've only tried one brand of factory ammo so far (Norma match, 143gr), no hand loads yet, but I'm still of the mind that practically any rifle should shoot an inch group at 100 yards. Several of the groups showed a vertical string, so I was thinking maybe there was a high spot on the aluminum and the action was teetering.

So, with all of that in mind, I was going to try and kill a couple of birds with one stone.

I will admit that I'm not immersed in the gun world as I used to be, careers and life gets in the way of things, but I'm just not impressed with this rifle so far.

I'm actually an engine builder, have a YouTube channel, and I did post a couple of videos regarding the fit and finish and grouping.

Lykins Motorsports Line Honing Mai..........Whoops, I Mean Scope Rings - YouTube

Lykins Motorsports Savage 110 Desert Tactical 6.5 PRC First Impressions - YouTube

[Dave Hoback]

Oh, no reloading? And you’ve tried only one brand of ammo? Not for nothin’, but that is precisely what almost all $600-$700 rifles do with most factory ammunition. I know everyone online talks of their brand new this or that doing 1/4” groups, but in the really real world, the more economical factory offerings will shoot many factory loads above 1moa.

My advice would be shoot some other brands of ammo. And if you really want your rifle to show its muster… Start Reloading Just because the factory ammo is all shiny, & expensive doesn’t mean your rifle will love it.

[blykins]

Oh, no reloading? And you’ve tried only one brand of ammo? Not for nothin’, but that is precisely what almost all $600-$700 rifles do with most factory ammunition. I know everyone online talks of their brand new this or that doing 1/4” groups, but in the really real world, the more economical factory offerings will shoot many factory loads above 1moa.

My advice would be shoot some other brands of ammo. And if you really want your rifle to show its muster… Start Reloading Just because the factory ammo is all shiny, & expensive doesn’t mean your rifle will love it.

I returned the Choate and ordered an MDT stock.

[Robinhood]

Well, there's a couple of reasons I'm switching. First reason is that I just didn't like the factory stock after I got the rifle in here. Ordered the rifle sight unseen off of Gun Brokers, seller had a nice Thanksgiving discount, I own other Savage rifles, so I just bought it. Second reason is the fit just isn't good. I can slide a piece of paper around the barrel down to the receiver, but the barrel hugs the right side of the stock pretty hard and it just looks cheap. Actually the fit and finish on the whole rifle just isn't good. End of the bolt was nasty dirty/corroded when I got it, rifle had a wear mark on it from where the factory had inserted/removed the bolt, etc. Third reason is that the rifle shoots horribly. I've been shooting for the better part of 35 years, plinking, bench rest, USPSA, etc., and there's really no reason why a shelf rifle shouldn't shoot a 1 MOA group at 100 yards with factory ammo. This one shoots at least twice that. Now granted, I've only tried one brand of factory ammo so far (Norma match, 143gr), no hand loads yet, but I'm still of the mind that practically any rifle should shoot an inch group at 100 yards. Several of the groups showed a vertical string, so I was thinking maybe there was a high spot on the aluminum and the action was teetering. So, with all of that in mind, I was going to try and kill a couple of birds with one stone. I will admit that I'm not immersed in the gun world as I used to be, careers and life gets in the way of things, but I'm just not impressed with this rifle so far. I'm actually an engine builder, have a YouTube channel, and I did post a couple of videos regarding the fit and finish and grouping. Lykins Motorsports Line Honing Mai..........Whoops, I Mean Scope Rings - YouTube Lykins Motorsports Savage 110 Desert Tactical 6.5 PRC First Impressions - YouTube

This tells me all I need to know. You are mechanical and think in terms of precision. Good luck and i hope you become a regular here.

[Dave Hoback]

Well yeah, sounds that way. But many of us here are “mechanical” Hell, I’m mechanical & I like making things to my liking. But only so much can be expected from a budget rifle; especially when only one type of ammunition has been tested. Don’t think there is anyone who loves the Savage 110 for than I. However, I’ll never buy another new Savage rifle. Only look at used rifles anymore. And only for the Actions at that.

[Robinhood]

Well yeah, sounds that way. But many of us here are “mechanical” Hell, I’m mechanical & I like making things to my liking. But only so much can be expected from a budget rifle; especially when only one type of ammunition has been tested. Don’t think there is anyone who loves the Savage 110 for than I. However, I’ll never buy another new Savage rifle. Only look at used rifles anymore. And only for the Actions at that.

My apologies Dave, yes you are mechanical. Probably more than most everyone on this forum. Certainly more than me. I was simply giving feedback to blykins. I certainly was not intending to disrespect your knowledge or ability. Merry Christmas to all.

[Dave Hoback]

I didn’t think you were. HAHAHA…. I think I need Smiley faces on all my posts.

Trust me Robin, nothing I’m saying is meant with any opposition. I’m sorry it’s sounding like that that to you. But it’s not what I’m thinking. When you read my posts, read the with a happy voice in your head, not an angry one, LOL!

[blykins]

I didn’t think you were. HAHAHA…. I think I need Smiley faces on all my posts.

Trust me Robin, nothing I’m saying is meant with any opposition. I’m sorry it’s sounding like that that to you. But it’s not what I’m thinking. When you read my posts, read the with a happy voice in your head, not an angry one, LOL!

You're a good man, Charlie Brown. :) Maybe we can all meet up some day and send a few down range together.

My 112 in .338 LM will put a group sub-MOA with factory ammo, but to your point, I did try 3 different brands of ammo to see what it may like and to get enough brass to start reloading.

The 6.5 PRC just doesn't have a lot of factory ammo offerings. I'll work through it eventually.

[blykins]

MDT stock is on. Very nice fitment.

As a follow-up, Savage did return my email and told me that if I wanted to send the rifle to them, they would let their gunsmiths take a look at it because the grouping was not normal.

I'm going to give it another shot today (no pun intended) with the new stock and some different ammunition before I make that decision.

On another note, I found this nice .016" gap between the picatinny rail and the receiver last night. Fixed it this morning. Just seems like whomever assembled this rifle zonked down the front screws first before they tightened the rear screws. I pulled the rail off, checked for debris/burrs, then checked fitment without screws. It fit great, so I tightened them evenly and torqued it. No more gap.

[blykins]

I went to the range again. It seems to favor the Hornady ammunition a little better, but I noticed that after I fixed the problem with the rail raising up in the back this morning, it has started to come back up again. No doubt that this is causing some issues with how the rifle shoots.

You can see in the picture above how the rail sits flush against the action. There is now another gap starting.

[Dave Hoback]

I’m willing to bet THAT was your accuracy issue right there.

[Robinhood]

I’m willing to bet THAT was your accuracy issue right there.

No Doubt.

[Robinhood]

You can see in the picture above how the rail sits flush against the action. There is now another gap starting.

Some rail manufacturers make the contact points inside of the outside edge, not a true 3.500" radius. I have seen that before. Barring it having the wrong screw profile, stripped threads or a bent action, consider bedding it with J&B Weld and moving forward.

[blykins]

This is one that just doesn't make sense to me.

I had the rifle stripped down this morning when I saw the initial gap problem. I took the rings off, pulled the rail off, checked for any issues, then laid the rail back on the action. It sits perfectly flush and straight. The bolts went back in and held torque. I thought I had fixed it.

It didn't take 10 rounds for me to start seeing daylight in between the rail and the action at the range this afternoon and by the time I was done, this is what I was seeing again (I stuck my fingers in the way so my phone would focus):



So why is it happening? If the rail sits flush and the screws hold torque, how is it popping up? No doubt that this is what is causing the grouping issues, if the hindend of the scope is moving around, I'm just chasing myself around the target.

I'm reluctant to put JB Weld on it, just from the standpoint that if I ever had to remove the rail, there'd be no good way of getting it off cleanly and easily.

I can't say that the rail is warped or bowed, because it sat down flush and fit the receiver very nicely this morning. I'm just perplexed right now.

That MDT chassis is straight up awesome though LOL

[Robinhood]

"I'm reluctant to put JB Weld on it, just from the standpoint that if I ever had to remove the rail, there ould be no good way of getting it off cleanly and easily. " Release agent makes it come off easily. It is your rifle though and I am not going to push anything on you............................................... .................................................. .................................................. ......................... There is only one answer to your issue. The threads are either stripped on the screws or hole, or they are the wrong thread size, IE... #6 crew where a #8 screw should be used. At the same time there is a situation that is making the rail lift. Weather it is the way the rings are mounted, a bent rail, a bent action or a restriction keeping one of those components from seating properly. Anything purchased used for a savage comes with risk. There are a lot of fledgling "Savagesmiths" out there doing things they have no business doing. Due to savages being easily customizable by an experience or knowledgeable person, the inexperienced and ignorant often try and do things they shouldn't be. So inspect everything for fit s you go together.

[blykins]

This is one that just doesn't make sense to me.

I had the rifle stripped down this morning when I saw the initial gap problem. I took the rings off, pulled the rail off, checked for any issues, then laid the rail back on the action. It sits perfectly flush and straight. The bolts went back in and held torque. I thought I had fixed it.

It didn't take 10 rounds for me to start seeing daylight in between the rail and the action at the range this afternoon and by the time I was done, this is what I was seeing again (I stuck my fingers in the way so my phone would focus):



So why is it happening? If the rail sits flush and the screws hold torque, how is it popping up? No doubt that this is what is causing the grouping issues, if the hindend of the scope is moving around, I'm just chasing myself around the target.

I'm reluctant to put JB Weld on it, just from the standpoint that if I ever had to remove the rail, there'd be no good way of getting it off cleanly and easily.

I can't say that the rail is warped or bowed, because it sat down flush and fit the receiver very nicely this morning. I'm just perplexed right now.

That MDT chassis is straight up awesome though LOL

Thanks for the dialogue.

This particular rifle came with the rail mounted to the rifle from Savage. I added the rings and scope (and of course the stock).

I didn't know that there was a release agent for JB Weld. Interesting.