I purchased a Savage 110 Ultralight and it's great. My only complaint is that when I cycle the bolt back it's catching if I don't do it JUST RIGHT! Particularly, when I cycle the bolt up the very front of it rolls past the even point with the guide behind it (see A below) so that when I pull the bolt back the seam at 'A' hits at 'B'. It only does it when I cycle the bolt all the way up then pull back, but a good bolt shouldn't care how i cycle it...it should just work. Especially under the adrenaline of hunting. When it does it I just have to lower the bolt slightly then it aligns and I can cycle it all the way back. A friend borrowed it and when a coyote came in he did just what I explained when he tried to load a round and didn't even end up chambering a round. Is this something I need a gunsmith to fix? I did think that I could file a ramp where it hits at 'B' below but I shouldn't have to. The gun below isn't mine, I just grabbed a stock photo to try to explain the issue I'm having, but if anyone has had this happen or can help thanks in advance!
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Back to Savage with it! The Ultralight, and more to the point, the Factory Fluted Bolt it uses has seen some recent cycling problems. People are swapping for the standard Bolt Body, and the issue is resolved. Making it work would require modification, machining… OR, like the above; just swapping for a standard Body Body altogether like this for $40. https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...tion-bolt-body
Just send it back to Savage on warranty.
Yup, and then send the other bolt to LRI and have Chad flute that one.Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
FWIW:My Model 11 LWHunter with the spiral fluted bold did the same.Factory Fluted Bolt it uses has seen some recent cycling problems.
Yes, it’s a known issue. But we do know of Savage dealing with “Known Issues” unfortunately.. Their motto: “Forget the problem & hopefully it’ll go away.” LOL! So send it back if you want to keep the look of that spiral bolt. They are good about fixing warranty work. Savage will just try other Spiral Bolts until they get one that functions acceptably. I prefer the look of a standard Bolt & Cerakoted.
If you want to avoid sending it back, you can file/polish the sharp edges off the flutes and the edges of the receiver bridges that the lugs are catching on. Doesn't take much work to slick things up, but since your receiver is blackened you'd have to touch up those areas you filed/polished with cold blue or something.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
By swapping out the bolt body it would still have the same bolt head which is where it seems to be over rotating. The bolt body is where the issue is?
The many I’ve we’ve seen have been due to the factory fluted bolt body. But it’s possible it’s something else. If I had your rifle in front of me I could tell the exact cause & correct it. But all I can do is go by what you’ve given us & tell you the most likely cause based on previous encounters. Which is why I said to let Savage deal with under warranty.
But what Jim said is correct. If it were my rifle, I’d look at exactly what it binding & eliminate that binding. Either by polishing, metal removal or part replacement. So yes, if you wish to, you can do the same. Carefully inspect the fault and trace what exactly is binding & why.
This all day long every day. However. Try pushing the bolt handle to the left as you close it. Fred's fluting never does this. http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/im...wFluting02.jpg
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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