Yes. The Short Magnum cartridges were started using Small Shank Actions, and later Savage changed to using Large Shank. The Small Shank barrels are fine to use for the Short Mags.
Does the Lightweight Hunter/Lightweight Storm barrel profile have enough meat for a WSM chamber?
Could you ream the 308 LWS out to 300wsm or the 7mm08 out to 7wsm?
Yes. The Short Magnum cartridges were started using Small Shank Actions, and later Savage changed to using Large Shank. The Small Shank barrels are fine to use for the Short Mags.
Chris, challenge your self. google chamber specs for the cartridges your interested in. If you can print them, even better! then you can look at them your self and see if the one you want will remove every dimension of the old chamber.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Thanks Dave, however I didn't mean to ask if the small shanks in general can be chambered in the WSM, but specifically the super skinny sporter profile of the LWS barrel. It looks to me like Savage has removed just about all unnecessary metal from these rifles, so my question is whether or not there's enough extra beef in the chamber area.
Oh I challenge myself every day... especially in reading comprehension . My question wasn't can a 308 in general be reamed out to 300wsm, but like I posted above, my question is about the exterior profile of the LWS barrels and if it is meaty enough for a WSM chamber. Do you have a link to the LSW barrel profile specs? That one I would definitely print.
Ahh.. gotchya.. Well, I’ll still say yes. I believe all Savage contours, regardless of lightweight profile, have at least the first 2” of the barrel the 1.055” . (Threaded portion plus) The 300 WSM case is 2.100” in OAL, so the chamber is housed almost completely in that 2” portion. Because of this, it’s no difference if it’s a Bull Barrel or Lightweight contour. The chamber is still within that 1.055” section.
Thanks Dave!
Dave, I think you're confusing aftermarket Savage barrels and factory barrels. Savage factory barrels have the taper start right where the threads end, so roughly about an inch from the breech end. The Only exception would be the large shank barrels that have the step-down about an additional 1/8" ahead of the threads. Aftermarket barrels will typically have 1.75 to 2" of no taper at the breech end to allow for setting back the chamber/rechambering in the future as the barrel wears.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
I punched my 250 Savage LWH barrel out to an Ackley improved with no issues, but the only thing changing there was removing the body taper and changing the shoulder angle. Basically have to make sure that when reaming it out it will clean up everything from the previous chamber without having to set the breech face back any. As stated above, Savage factory barrels have the contour start right at the end of the threads and they're only threaded "just enough" to allow screwing the nut on an extra thread or two to allow for setting the headspace when installing.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
A wsm in a small shank might benefit by using a shouldered barrel. It worked for me with no problems.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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