Hi Guys,
I have a brand new 110 Storm (10 Storm would be more correct but they don't seem to be distinguishing as much anymore).
Anyway, I installed a set of Leupold Backcountry mounts, the ones that look like Talley knock offs, and when I set a level on the bottom halves the front one leans to the left. Sure enough when I tried to bore sight my scope it took the entire 35MOA of adjustment to get the crosshair to point at the same fence post as the barrel.
I thought it could be an issue with the mounts, so I swapped the front one for the back one and there's no change, front one still leans left. Looks like Savage built me a twisted receiver, or miss drilled the holes.
For this upcoming hunting season there's not much time left, so I'm going to try some old style Leupold STD windage adjustable rings & bases. For the longer term, I'm not exactly thrilled with a crooked rifle. If I send it back to Savage, what will they do about it?
I've found quite a few discussions on this topic, but none that followed up after the OP got the rifle back. Anybody been down this road?
That really sucks. I have seen this on used actions where a nucklehead used some tool in the loading ports as a back up and removed the barrel. Never seen it on a new action. The old flatbacks occasionally saw some off angle crap to. If you cant get another rifle for hunting season. Call Savage CS and see what they tell you. Mention your quandry.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Do you have any other mounts you could try? Have you measured the hole's locations or just taken a ruler to see if they line up? Just trying to help you confirm it's the scope mount holes before you're stuck sending it back to Savage.
ETA: Is it possible the holes are drilled inline but canted (not perpendicular to the bore)?
I've only tried the one pair of mounts, but swapping them front for rear and seeing no change confirmed for me that it's the holes.Originally Posted by Revoliver
HOWEVER, I just returned from the range and was able to sight in just fine. I had to crank the scope way over, but had about 5moa to spare. The scope has 70moa total windage, which means I used roughly 30moa getting to zero. Still not thrilled on the QC, but at least it's a usable rifle! Seems to shoot pretty good too. Getting sort of a vertical string 1/2" wide by 2" tall at 100 yards. I could only find Fusion 180gr locally (took five stores just to find that) but I have some Norma 180gr Bondstrikes supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'll give them a try next weekend.
Now it's down to praying for elk...
Burris XTR Signature rings can give you up to 40 moa of shift in any direction you want. I have them, they're good rings.
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mountin...ignature-rings
https://www.burrisoptics.com/blog/mo...ignature-rings
ETA: Using the +/- 10 and +/- 20 inserts, you could correct that 30moa shift from the scope mount holes.
Is it just me or do the Burris XTR rings seem like a solution for a problem that should not exist in the first place?
It's just you. You don't have to have any offset at all if you don't want or need to* and just like the extra clamping and delrin (or whatever material they are) inserts not marring up the scope.
ETA:
*buy using the two sets of +/- 20moa inserts aligned with the +s and -s on the same sides in the front and back rings.
Nope- not just you.....
Small amounts are no big deal- that is why they have that knob on the side of the scope. If that's not enough then you should be getting the problem fixed.
Ever shoot long range with a scope that runs out of adjustment? Need 20MOA today, but not tomorrow? Or just want your knobs as close to center as possible?
There are as many reason to use them as there not to. No one agrees on the same Beer either.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
I agree, the problem shouldn't exist. However, if you prefer not to send the rifle back to Savage, the Burris rings are the least problematic solution.
I doubt there’s a mass produced rifle out there that gets the scope base screws straight every time. The Burris signature zee and XTR signature rings are fantastic at correcting misalignment without using up the internal adjustment of the scope. I use them pretty much exclusively anymore for the reasons already stated, along with they provide great grip on the scope without leaving ring marks.
I wouldn’t use rings with inserts. You could try using a one piece rail & rings. Or a one piece mount. (I’d recommend a rail over the mount as mounts are typically 6061 and any of the quality rails are 7075 or Chrom-Moly steel. Either being much stiffer. May be enough to “pull” the slight alignment issue straight.
Ah, the old 6061 can't handle mounting a scope but is perfectly fine as a chassis for the entire rifle argument.
No, I never said that. Handling a scope has nothing to do with conversation. I actually use an ADM AD-Recon scope mount & Mirage URL Chassis which are both 6061-T6 Billet. Regardless, 7075 aluminum is much stronger/harder, and makes a difference in smaller, thinner parts. A Chassis is a large item. It uses a great deal of material. The more material, hence thicker part, means stiffer component. Since I am referring to the rail or mount as being somewhat of a load bearing support(if indeed the Action is slightly warped), the strength/stiffness makes a difference in such a small, thin part. In simple terms, comparing a Chassis & a rail, is much the same comparing a Popsicle stick & a Baseball bat.
I’d recommend researching the properties of both 6061 & 7075 & various strength treatments, to better educate yourself with the strength/stiffness & hardness of either material. Really, I encourage research of Metallurgy as a whole. Absolutely fascinating! Or, just ask. I would be happy to fill in anything you’re unsure of.
A lot of OLD Mauser actions were drilled off center so I guess savage could be off center too.
I have a Herders "J9" which is a Mauser 98 I do believe.
Anyway Some times you can have a smith weld up the holes that is off then re drill or move back a little bit and have a new holes drilled and tapped. The Burris work great I have to use the 20 in front and back then I had to take a "Blank" base and drill a holes off center to get it back to true.
I have many sets of the burris signature rings. Thousands of rounds through them, and they have never failed me, even on my magnum rifles. I like to shoot long range and i like the added cant and the super reliability. I have yet to see them not work that it hasn't been user error.
The Burris rings look pretty interesting. Am I understanding correctly that both the Signature Zee rings and the XTR Signature rings use the same insert system, and the difference is just the size/duty level of the rings (2 screw vs 6 screw)?
Same concept between the two, but the inserts are not interchangeable between the Signature Zee and the XTR Signature. The XTR Signature inserts are shaped/sized differently than the Signature Zee inserts.
I'm not seeing how 7075 or even 4140 is going to pull scope mount holes in steel into alignment. And 6061 does just fine for Keymod and MLOk slot attachments, both of which are thinner than a scope rail.
The rings are currently on sale at Midway
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1548235656
Well those rings would be the cheapest fix.... Not the best fix but still the cheapest. It looks like you have a lot of potential to introduce binding and loading of the scope... and another part equals another thing that can cause issues. External adjustments use to be how all the scopes were adjusted-- but then people realized a better way.
Bingo!
Nothing is fool proof. If you follow the instructions there is no issue, if you don't and mix-n-match the insert set halves, that's on the end user. Otherwise, there's no more chance of loading or binding or torquing than any other scope rings.
This is exactly right
I agree with celltech, we shouldn't have to deal with bore alignment with line of sight!
I've found that most often the problem can be traced back to loose fitting barrel threads and the recoil lug is not flat and parallel. A precision ground lug will help align the barrel with the action and most often solve the e problem, Burris sig.zee rings will always get you there.
Loose headspace will also cause an ftf.
I had a rash of ftfs in various calibers and it was found that a bent priming pin in my press was twisting the misaligned primers during the priming operation.
Loose anvils were always present at deprive and also with the ftf cartridges. The press was distorting the cups and dislodged the anvils! New priming pin and problem cured.
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