Reply With Quotesure, just remember to add a small amount of heat if you ever remove them.
Shooting my 223 this past weekend and my results were not exactly what they should have been. As I was putting the rifle away, I thought why not check the scope ring screws.
Boy, were they loose. I was thinking about putting some loctite on them.
I had to put that on the rail screws from the get go, as that loosened up right away many months ago.
Could there be any harm here ?
sure, just remember to add a small amount of heat if you ever remove them.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Depends on the rings. Warne (my favorite) say no Locktite on the ring screws - but to definately use a torque wrench when installing.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
I use blue for ring bases to the action and the lighter purple on ring screws.
Thank you folks.....
I've also been looking into micro-lock washers. I don't think they come small enough though. Close, but not small enough.
I always use Blue Loctite and a Wheeler torque screwdriver and let it sit over night at a minimum.
I ALWAYS use blue loctite on base and ring screws, along with a torque wrench. Learned my lesson the hard way when I was 16 as loose rings cost me a large white tail buck (I had checked the rifle prior to season and it was zeroed). I don't care if the manufacturer says not to use it, I do it anyway. It's not going to hurt a thing. Also, I've never needed heat to remove them either. Blue loctite is removeable with just a screwdriver. It's not permanent like the red is. It's just enough to keep screws from vibrating loose.
I appreciate all the replies.
I'm sure 'blue' wouldn't hurt, but I ended up going with clear nail polish. It is only a .223 after all.
You'll be fine with nail polish. Many people use it too. It's about the same as blue loctite for holding strength, really not much difference.
I guess I am the odball. I never used it or seen anyone in my circle use it. I would ask myself why are my screws coming loose. My complaints are having to clean the screws and internal threads in the action to reuse them, that and striping out the socket of the screw then having to drill the head off.
Also look into the 222 purple for smaller screws. I like the idea of using nail paint though.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I use it on Pic Rail screws, not ring caps. As ring halves don’t completely meet at one or both ends, it provides spring tension which acts as it’s own screw lock. Almost all manufacturers recommend NO Threadlocker on Ring screws. Rule of thumb if it’s “Metal to Metal”, Threadlocker is ok. Screw under tension, NO Threadlocker.
That's sound theory/advice on the spring tension of the rings. Unfortunately, it didn't work out in practice for me, at least once. I never took the chance again and use loctite on them too just in case. Now, I was young at the time and hadn't learned as much, so it's possible I didn't have them torqued correctly (they were cheap rings too), and it may not ever happen again. But it wasn't worth the risk to me and using loctite has never given me any detrimental issues. Screw removal and re-installation has never been a problem either for base or ring screws with loctite on them for me.
I Loctite the base but not the rings. If you want to change scopes it makes it easier. I have a torque screwdriver and check them occasionally but so far they have always been tight.
Agreed. Using a low strength thread locker is not going to harm anything. The point of manufactures expressly saying NOT to use it on areas is not necessary is of course legal recourse. They are covering their end. For people like myself, I explain for those with less working knowledge. Those who aren’t familiar don’t understand the differences in thread lock. Blue, Red, Purple, Green; it’s pick your favorite color, right? They see the terms LOW & HIGH Strength. Well, the High strength MUST be better, right? That’s what I want! These people can run into trouble.
Those such as yourself are in no danger of damaging their equipment because you clearly understand which locktite to use for what.
Personally.... I use RED loctite on the base screws. Been doing it for decades. For scope rings BLUE is fine but I've never used any on my rings. Torque them down properly and you will have not issues except with CHEAP aluminum rings that tend to strip out the screw threads.
US Army Military Police Veteran, NRA Life Member
I always use blue locktight on my bases but not the ring screws. If your torqued correctly, there’s no reason for locktight on the ring screws in my opinion.
If you do use locktite when the manufacturer calls for none- then you are technically supposed to use less torque than what the specs are for. The torque spec is for dry- and wet screws tighten more than a dry screw even when using a torque wrench at the same setting. Usually not a huge deal- but when you are using supper small ring screws it makes a pretty big difference.
This has been an on going debate for many, many years. And even certain manufacturers have completely flipped their opinion through the years! Which tells me just that.. it’s nothing more than an opinion! Every new “torque yield applications coordinator”, or whatever they call them at such & such a company has a different opinion, thus different regulation. Torque values were a big part of my professional life as an Auto Tech. Bearing preload, gear backlash, etc was in part controlled by torque. And these values mattered. Although not to any level that say, NASA relies on. I’ve found firearms to be the same. We are dealing with Inch-Pounds here. Honestly, if the value called for is 20in.lbs., & one accidentally dials in a torque of 25, I don’t believe the Space-Time Continuum will be splitting. Oh.. and I don’t believe any damage to the firearm will result either. I’ve certainly never seen improper torque cause anything. (I’m not speaking of cranking the fastener devoid of any sensible torque value obviously.)Originally Posted by Whynot
I don’t bat my brain with it. I torque to the provided specification regardless of using thread lock or no, wet or dry. But, do as your conviction compels you.
If you insist on using lok-tite, Purple is the best route to go for both ring screws and base screws. Purple is specifically engineered for smaller (1/4" or less) fasteners.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Absolutely correct Stumpkiller!
Last edited by BIGBOREDAVE; 02-11-2023 at 03:22 PM. Reason: add name
You really need to be careful with this….Scope rings come loose for a variety of reasons.
1) never tightened to a proper torque
2) scope tube too weak to support the proper torque
3) rings too weak (or poorly designed) to support proper torque
Proper torque = 14-25 in lbs…..generally I find 15 in lbs applied by a cam over or electronic strain gauge type wrench to be perfect.
Notice none of those are forgot to apply locktite!
That said, I have used locktite to mount a good scope in a crap ring when that was the only available ring. It worked.
Tighten to torque. Check again after a min or 2. If the torque drops, you need new rings, most likely. You can try locktite. It may work.
LOL. So much misinformation.
I always use blue loctite on the ring screws, and if I’m overly worried about a base moving or breaking base screws , I will bed the base.
If you want to see how strong the blue is, use the loctite 7452 accelerator spray. No waiting to let it cure if you use this.
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