I am entirely ignorant...

[DaddySharkof2]

Howdy yall.
I am entirely ignorant to rifles, shotguns, and anything other than M4 and M16 I carried in the Army.
I know a lot about weapon safety, but am sure I can alway pick up a trick or two.. Never too safe.

I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 year model 111 .270. It 100% original and comes with an optic that will suffice for my first hunting season.

When I go to these online retailers how do I know what will fit my new to me rifle? Are there any brands or retailers to stay away from? (No need to bash and I couldnt tell if asking about best/worst retailers is allowed in the forum rules).

Is the 2001 year model 111 .270 able to be converted to a magazine style like the new ones with that, reportedly, terrible accutrigger?

Any tips, tricks, or advice is greatly appreciated.

Also, I did my best to search the forums before posting. I followed the tips of using 3-4 words. Tried with quotes and without.

[hamiltonkiler]

110 long action parts fit. Bed the front of the action and recoil lug.
Float the barrel. May need to sand the sides of the plastic out. Work on the trigger spring and shim the sides with aluminum thin washers. Dry lube. Make sure optics hold zero. I prefer to bed the scope base to the action. Also adding a little weight to the stock, a .270 has some recoil.
Cheers


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[Dave Hoback]

Hello DaddyShark! No need to apologize. We don’t yell the “USE TBE SEARCH” thing here… not our style. No, many here actually enjoy answering question, talking about Savage Rifles specifically & firearms period. So please, if you ever have a question, don’t hesitate to ask.

You have a Long Action, Flat-Back & non-Accutrigger. It’s most likely a Stagger-feed Action, but you should check as it can make a difference for stocks. Easy to verify. Pull the Barreled-Action from the stock. Is the Magazine Box attached to the Action? (Stagger-Feed) Or is it attached to the stock? (Centerfeed) You can also tell from how the rounds feed, but sometimes takes a more seasoned eye. Here’s an older thread showing a Stagger-Feed & how to remove the Mag Box. Which is required if you wish to go to a Detachable magazine. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ew/2&styleid=4 The characteristics I listed above are some of those by which parts are chosen. Long/Short Action, With/Without Accutrigger & Stagger-Feed/Center-Feed. In addition there are Large/Small Shank, Action Screw spacing through the years, & Top or Bottom Bolt Release (TBR/BBR) Although in your case, ALL Long Actions have the same Action Screw spacing. Im not sure what you have read concerning the Accutrigger, however, I can tell you being classified as “terrible” is a personal objective. Some detest it sure. However, there are others who are quite fond of it. Especially when worked over correctly via Trigger Job, as I do. Savage unfortunately has been in a situation of never having a truly Precision Target trigger available in the Aftermarket. Even so, both the 3-screw & Accutrigger have lent to DIY’ers modifying & working it to quite successful ends. I rather save the $150-$200 for any current Aftermarket Savage trigger & have my modified stock trigger. A modified stock Savage trigger is actually very close in function to the best aftermarket currently offered. Although we are hoping TriggerTech changes that next year.. (fingers crossed)

Hope those helps. Anything you are still unsure of please ask.

[DaddySharkof2]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/es0nl6lr91...9%29.jpeg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yfb1lzjq9k...1%29.jpeg?dl=0

[Dave Hoback]

Excellent!

[Robinhood]

Dave gave you some good data. I will add that the modern magazines are not a drop in unless you go with a chassis and use the AICS pattern mags maybe some other brands. Regarding stocks, the screw spacing is the same for the old and the newer long actions the mags fit differently and the mag wells are in different locations.

Outside of bolt and trigger work I would leave that rifle alone and hunt. When you are ready to modify get a more modern version of the Savage 10/110 that has plenty of aftermarket support.

For your bolt there are various degrees of bolt lift work. For your trigger the best work you can do is shimming the slop out but still maintain free motion and altering the diameter of the trigger spring. .040" diameter wire is on the light end and possibly .043" on the heavy side to lighten the trigger pull. The lighter spring must be done with care as it increases the chance of accidental discharge.

Aftermarket triggers are subjective. My favorites were always what Fred Moreo of Sharp Shooter supply formerly sold.

Good luck with your new rifle. I hope you get a chance to hunt the San Saba area if you like trophies.