What is the definition of “Action screw creep” ?
Maybe, maybe not. The point to a chassis is it offers the most Rigid & BEST method of eliminating Action screw creep. By means, this offers the greatest aptitude of accuracy. But it does not mean accuracy will improve just because. It’s the same with a barrel. If your Rifle is already shooting lights out with the factory barrel, swapping to a Bartlein is not likely going to increase accuracy. But it might.
What is the definition of “Action screw creep” ?
I think he is pointing out that an un pillard stock will compress and the action screws will not maintain torque. Or was he.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
As far as I know?, the 12FV stock has always come with steel pillars. Mine came with a steel trigger guard. Even the old Stevens 200’s I have bought since 2007, that had plastic trigger guards, have steel inserts in them where the screws go. This provides steel on steel from the screw head to the action. It can take 60” #’s of torque, for those who think this is beneficial, without stressing the action.
By the way. The Remington BDL tupperware stock is NOT pillared. It is action, bottom metal, and TUPPERWARE MUSH IN BETWEEN.
There are dozens & dozens of good videos & blogs. I don’t have any off top of my head I point to. But I always recommend people research many different avenues. Watch many different videos & blogs. You’ll be able to pick out the food from bad, because you’ll notice that some of them do things the same, with good results. So, if you watch 10 videos, and you see 6 of them who all do a lot of the same things with good results, well, there you go. I’ll take a look though to see if I can remember any.
I actually perused through, and remembered this one from just a couple years back. He does one of the most in depth “how to’s”. And it’s on a a Savage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3aydnQYFK0
I like Vaughn’s stuff to. He’s not quite intricate, but I like him.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvmI2rQb7eM
Depends on if there is a loose nut behind the sights.
There seems to be a large number of people that immediately modify for accuracy before shooting their rifle. How do you measure improvement without shooting first.
I sold a 40x once to a guy who said the first thing he was going to do was replace the barrel (22 lr). "Why?" I asked. His answer was so it would group better.
I told him to shoot it first. He kept the factory barrel. It would shoot above his ability.
That reminds me of people using a borescope in the bore and condemning the barrel before firing a single shot.
Both! Although it’s a highly debated point. And you’ll find several competing points of view. I’m a Chassis guy. So, the Action surrounded by a full Aluminum bed is my first choice. But for those working with stocks, I’d do Aluminum/steel pillars & full bedding. Leaving the tang not touching the stock surface of course.
Yes, both. The pillars give the action screws something solid to be torqued against. The bedding gives the receiver a solid connection to stock.
As Dave mentioned, the chassis does both.
It doesn’t take much material to bed the front of the action. Some JB weld and some release agent. Tape it up and lay your barreled action back in the stock. It makes a great deal of difference. I put on a kydex check riser also and filled the front gridding of the stock up with JB weld also to stiffen it up. On the bench I will compete with anyone.
It shoots little .25” groups
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Yep there are.There seems to be a large number of people that immediately modify for accuracy before shooting their rifle. How do you measure improvement without shooting first?
Belvar24,
I wasn't one of them.
You can see the results of factory stock and Oryx stock in the following thread.
Factory stock - https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...-new-12-FV-223
Oryx chassis - https://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?64623-Documented-results-from-replacing-the-12-FV-factory-stock-with-an-Oryx-Chassis
22 month compilation
Compilation of 22 months of Savage 12 FV .223 Results (savageshooters.com)
LOL We all know that CFJunkie. I don’t think Belvar24 was implying anyone in this thread size specifically, but rather in general. And just as he pointed to, & WBM seconded; I have to agree.
But we’ve all posted with you long enough to know your background doesn’t reflect this.
Dave, I didn't take his comments negatively. Sorry if it sounded that way.
I was just trying to provide some data that he may not have noticed since those posts are pretty old.
Actually, I agree with Belvar24.
Changing things without first seeing how good or bad the factory stuff works probably means that the change was for esthetics instead of performance.
Many people don't measure anything anyway so they can't determine if what they did really worked.
They just 'feel' stuff works better and are convinced the change improved things.
That's OK with me, as long as they are happy with the change.
I admit that I'm just too anal. I measure everything before and after every change.
Once an engineer, always an engineer - even years after retiring.
LOL! I was just a lowly “Technician”. You know… I was the guy who had to FIX the stuff you engineers designed that didn’t work! LOL!
Yep, had some of those guys too. The best training I got was in a machine shop and working as a mechanic as a teenager. Later on got more from a very experienced aerospace master machinist.
Most of my work involved destroying things and then trying to figure out how to make them harder to kill. Fun times.
Yeah, the techs hate me because I did that before becoming an engineer. I like to ask questions and work thru lunch.
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